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Chapter 17 - ON THE BEARDMORE GLACIER
Scott's Last Expedition - The Journals of Captain R.
F. Scott
Contents
and Preface Chapters:
Chapter 1 |
Chapter 2 |
Chapter 3 |
Chapter 4 |
Chapter 5 |
Chapter 6 |
Chapter 7 |
Chapter 8 |
Chapter 9 |
Chapter 10 |
Chapter 11 |
Chapter 12 |
Chapter 13 |
Chapter 14 |
Chapter 15 |
Chapter 16 |
Chapter 17 |
Chapter 18 |
Chapter 19 |
Chapter 20 |
Appendix
Summary
(2 pages) of the
Terra Nova Expedition |
The Men
of the Expedition
Sunday, December 10
Camp 32. [33] I was
very anxious about getting
our loads forward over such an appalling surface, and that we
have
done so is mainly due to the ski. I roused everyone at 8, but it
was noon before all the readjustments of load had been made and
we
were ready to start. The dogs carried 600 lbs. of our weight
besides
the depot (200 lbs.). It was greatly to my surprise when we--my
own
party--with a 'one, two, three together' started our sledge, and
we
found it running fairly easily behind us. We did the first mile
at
a rate of about 2 miles an hour, having previously very
carefully
scraped and dried our runners. The day was gloriously fine and
we
were soon perspiring. After the first mile we began to rise, and
for
some way on a steep slope we held to our ski and kept going.
Then the
slope got steeper and the surface much worse, and we had to take
off
our ski. The pulling after this was extraordinarily fatiguing.
We sank
above our finnesko everywhere, and in places nearly to our
knees. The
runners of the sledges got coated with a thin film of ice from
which we
could not free them, and the sledges themselves sank to the
crossbars
in soft spots. All the time they were literally ploughing the
snow. We
reached the top of the slope at 5, and started on after tea on
the
down grade. On this we had to pull almost as hard as on the
upward
slope, but could just manage to get along on ski. We camped at
9.15,
when a heavy wind coming down the glacier suddenly fell on us;
but
I had decided to camp before, as Evans' party could not keep up,
and
Wilson told me some very alarming news concerning it. It appears
that
Atkinson says that Wright is getting played out and Lashly is
not so
fit as he was owing to the heavy pulling since the blizzard. I
have
not felt satisfied about this party. The finish of the march
to-day
showed clearly that something was wrong. They fell a long way
behind,
had to take off ski, and took nearly half an hour to come up a
few
hundred yards. True, the surface was awful and growing worse
every
moment. It is a very serious business if the men are going to
crack
up. As for myself, I never felt fitter and my party can easily
hold
its own. P.O. Evans, of course, is a tower of strength, but
Oates
and Wilson are doing splendidly also.
Here where we are camped the snow is worse than I have ever seen
it, but we are in a hollow. Every step here one sinks to the
knees
and the uneven surface is obviously insufficient to support the
sledges. Perhaps this wind is a blessing in disguise, already it
seems
to be hardening the snow. All this soft snow is an aftermath of
our
prolonged storm. Hereabouts Shackleton found hard blue ice. It
seems
an extraordinary difference in fortune, and at every step S.'s
luck
becomes more evident. I take the dogs on for half a day
to-morrow,
then send them home. We have 200 lbs. to add to each sledge load
and
could easily do it on a reasonable surface, but it looks very
much as
though we shall be forced to relay if present conditions hold.
There
is a strong wind down the glacier to-night.
' Beardmore Glacier
Just a tiny note to be taken back by the
dogs. Things are not so rosy as they might be, but we keep our
spirits
up and say the luck must turn. This is only to tell you that I
find
I can keep up with the rest as well as of old.'
Monday, December 11
Camp 33. A very good day from one point
of
view, very bad from another. We started straight out over the
glacier
and passed through a good deal of disturbance. We pulled on ski
and the
dogs followed. I cautioned the drivers to keep close to their
sledges
and we must have passed over a good many crevasses undiscovered
by us,
thanks to ski, and by the dogs owing to the soft snow. In one
only
Seaman Evans dropped a leg, ski and all. We built our depot [34]
before starting, made it very conspicuous, and left a good deal
of
gear there. The old man-hauling party made heavy weather at
first,
but when relieved of a little weight and having cleaned their
runners
and re-adjusted their load they came on in fine style, and,
passing
us, took the lead. Starting about 11, by 3 o'clock we were clear
of
the pressure, and I camped the dogs, discharged our loads, and
we put
them on our sledges. It was a very anxious business when we
started
after lunch, about 4.30. Could we pull our full loads or not? My
own
party got away first, and, to my joy, I found we could make
fairly
good headway. Every now and again the sledge sank in a soft
patch,
which brought us up, but we learned to treat such occasions with
patience. We got sideways to the sledge and hauled it out, Evans
(P.O.) getting out of his ski to get better purchase. The great
thing
is to keep the sledge moving, and for an hour or more there were
dozens of critical moments when it all but stopped, and not a
few in
it brought up altogether. The latter were very trying and
tiring. But
suddenly the surface grew more uniform and we more accustomed to
the
game, for after a long stop to let the other parties come up, I
started
at 6 and ran on till 7, pulling easily without a halt at the
rate of
about 2 miles an hour. I was very jubilant; all difficulties
seemed
to be vanishing; but unfortunately our history was not repeated
with
the other parties. Bowers came up about half an hour after us.
They
also had done well at the last, and I'm pretty sure they will
get
on all right. Keohane is the only weak spot, and he only, I
think,
because blind (temporarily). But Evans' party didn't get up till
10. They started quite well, but got into difficulties, did just
the
wrong thing by straining again and again, and so, tiring
themselves,
went from bad to worse. Their ski shoes, too, are out of trim.
Just as I thought we were in for making a great score, this
difficulty
overtakes us--it is dreadfully trying. The snow around us
to-night
is terribly soft, one sinks to the knee at every step; it would
be
impossible to drag sledges on foot and very difficult for dogs.
Ski are
the thing, and here are my tiresome fellow-countrymen too
prejudiced
to have prepared themselves for the event. The dogs should get
back
quite easily; there is food all along the line. The glacier wind
sprang up about 7; the morning was very fine and warm. To-night
there
is some stratus cloud forming--a hint no more bad weather in
sight. A
plentiful crop of snow blindness due to incaution--the sufferers
Evans,
Bowers, Keohane, Lashly, Oates--in various degrees.
This forenoon Wilson went over to a boulder poised on the
glacier. It
proved to be a very coarse granite with large crystals of quartz
in
it. Evidently the rock of which the pillars of the Gateway and
other
neighbouring hills are formed.
Tuesday, December 12
Camp 34. We have had a hard day, and
during
the forenoon it was my team which made the heaviest weather of
the
work. We got bogged again and again, and, do what we would, the
sledge dragged like lead. The others were working hard but
nothing
to be compared to us. At 2.30 I halted for lunch, pretty well
cooked,
and there was disclosed the secret of our trouble in a thin film
with
some hard knots of ice on the runners. Evans' team had been sent
off
in advance, and we didn't--couldn't!--catch them, but they saw
us
camp and break camp and followed suit. I really dreaded starting
after
lunch, but after some trouble to break the sledge out, we went
ahead
without a hitch, and in a mile or two recovered our leading
place
with obvious ability to keep it. At 6 I saw the other teams were
flagging and so camped at 7, meaning to turn out earlier
to-morrow
and start a better routine. We have done about 8 or perhaps 9
miles
(stat.)--the sledge-meters are hopeless on such a surface.
It is evident that what I expected has occurred. The whole of
the
lower valley is filled with snow from the recent storm, and if
we
had not had ski we should be hopelessly bogged. On foot one
sinks to
the knees, and if pulling on a sledge to half-way between knee
and
thigh. It would, therefore, be absolutely impossible to advance
on
foot with our loads. Considering all things, we are getting
better
on ski. A crust is forming over the soft snow. In a week or so I
have
little doubt it will be strong enough to support sledges and
men. At
present it carries neither properly. The sledges get bogged
every now
and again, sinking to the crossbars. Needless to say, the
hauling is
terrible when this occurs.
We steered for the Commonwealth Range during the forenoon till
we
reached about the middle of the glacier. This showed that the
unnamed
glacier to the S.W. raised great pressure. Observing this, I
altered
course for the 'Cloudmaker' and later still farther to the west.
We
must be getting a much better view of the southern side of the
main
glacier than Shackleton got, and consequently have observed a
number
of peaks which he did not notice. We are about 5 or 5 1/2 days
behind
him as a result of the storm, but on this surface our sledges
could
not be more heavily laden than they are, in fact we have not
nearly
enough runner surface as it is. Moreover, the sledges are packed
too
high and therefore capsize too easily. I do not think the
glacier can
be so broad as S. shows it. Certainly the scenery is not nearly
so
impressive as that of the Ferrar, but there are interesting
features
showing up--a distinct banded structure on Mount Elizabeth,
which we
think may well be a recurrence of the Beacon Sandstone--more
banding
on the Commonwealth Range. During the three days we have been
here the
wind has blown down the glacier at night, or rather from the
S.W., and
it has been calm in the morning--a sort of nightly land-breeze.
There
is also a very remarkable difference in temperature between day
and
night. It was +33° when we started, and without hard work we
were
literally soaked through with perspiration. It is now +23°.
Evans'
party kept up much better to-day; we had their shoes into our
tent
this morning, and P.O. Evans put them into shape again.
Wednesday, December 13
Camp 35. A most damnably dismal
day. We
started at eight--the pulling terribly bad, though the glide
decidedly
good; a new crust in patches, not sufficient to support the ski,
but
without possibility of hold. Therefore, as the pullers got on
the
hard patches they slipped back. The sledges plunged into the
soft
places and stopped dead. Evans' party got away first; we
followed,
and for some time helped them forward at their stops, but this
proved
altogether too much for us, so I forged ahead and camped at 1
P.M., as
the others were far astern. During lunch I decided to try the
10-feet
runners under the crossbars and we spent three hours in securing
them. There was no delay on account of the slow progress of the
other
parties. Evans passed us, and for some time went forward fairly
well up
a decided slope. The sun was shining on the surface by this
time, and
the temperature high. Bowers started after Evans, and it was
easy to
see the really terrible state of affairs with them. They made
desperate
efforts to get along, but ever got more and more
bogged--evidently the
glide had vanished. When we got away we soon discovered how
awful the
surface had become; added to the forenoon difficulties the snow
had
become wet and sticky. We got our load along, soon passing
Bowers,
but the toil was simply awful. We were soaked with perspiration
and
thoroughly breathless with our efforts. Again and again the
sledge
got one runner on harder snow than the other, canted on its
side,
and refused to move. At the top of the rise I found Evans
reduced to
relay work, and Bowers followed his example soon after. We got
our
whole load through till 7 P.M., camping time, but only with
repeated
halts and labour which was altogether too strenuous. The other
parties
certainly cannot get a full load along on the surface, and I
much
doubt if we could continue to do so, but we must try again
to-morrow.
I suppose we have advanced a bare 4 miles to-day and the aspect
of
things is very little changed. Our height is now about 1,500
feet;
I had pinned my faith on getting better conditions as we rose,
but
it looks as though matters were getting worse instead of better.
As
far as the Cloudmaker the valley looks like a huge basin for the
lodgement of such snow as this. We can but toil on, but it is
woefully
disheartening. I am not at all hungry, but pretty thirsty. (T.
+15°.) I
find our summit ration is even too filling for the present. Two
skuas
came round the camp at lunch, no doubt attracted by our
'Shambles'
camp.
Thursday, December 14
Camp 36. Indigestion and the soggy
condition of my clothes kept me awake for some time last night,
and the exceptional exercise gives bad attacks of cramp. Our
lips
are getting raw and blistered. The eyes of the party are
improving,
I am glad to say. We are just starting our march with no very
hopeful
outlook. (T. + 13°.)
Evening
(Height about 2000 feet.) Evans' party started first
this
morning; for an hour they found the hauling stiff, but after
that,
to my great surprise, they went on easily. Bowers followed
without
getting over the ground so easily. After the first 200 yards my
own
party came on with a swing that told me at once that all would
be
well. We soon caught the others and offered to take on more
weight,
but Evans' pride wouldn't allow such help. Later in the morning
we
exchanged sledges with Bowers, pulled theirs easily, whilst they
made
quite heavy work with ours. I am afraid Cherry-Garrard and
Keohane
are the weakness of that team, though both put their utmost into
the traces. However, we all lunched together after a
satisfactory
morning's work. In the afternoon we did still better, and camped
at
6.30 with a very marked change in the land bearings. We must
have
come 11 or 12 miles (stat.). We got fearfully hot on the march,
sweated through everything and stripped off jerseys. The result
is
we are pretty cold and clammy now, but escape from the soft snow
and
a good march compensate every discomfort. At lunch the blue ice
was
about 2 feet beneath us, now it is barely a foot, so that I
suppose
we shall soon find it uncovered. To-night the sky is overcast
and
wind has been blowing up the glacier. I think there will be
another
spell of gloomy weather on the Barrier, and the question is
whether
this part of the glacier escapes. There are crevasses about, one
about eighteen inches across outside Bowers' tent, and a
narrower
one outside our own. I think the soft snow trouble is at an end,
and I could wish nothing better than a continuance of the
present
surface. Towards the end of the march we were pulling our loads
with
the greatest ease. It is splendid to be getting along and to
find
some adequate return for the work we are putting into the
business.
Friday, December 15
Camp 37. (Height about 2500. Lat. about
84°
8'.) Got away at 8; marched till 1; the surface improving and
snow
covering thinner over the blue ice, but the sky overcast and
glooming,
the clouds ever coming lower, and Evans' is now decidedly the
slowest
unit, though Bowers' is not much faster. We keep up and overhaul
either without difficulty. It was an enormous relief yesterday
to
get steady going without involuntary stops, but yesterday and
this
morning, once the sledge was stopped, it was very difficult to
start
again--the runners got temporarily stuck. This afternoon for the
first
time we could start by giving one good heave together, and so
for the
first time we are able to stop to readjust footgear or do any
other
desirable task. This is a second relief for which we are most
grateful.
At the lunch camp the snow covering was less than a foot, and at
this
it is a bare nine inches; patches of ice and hard neve are
showing
through in places. I meant to camp at 6.30, but before 5.0 the
sky came
down on us with falling snow. We could see nothing, and the
pulling
grew very heavy. At 5.45 there seemed nothing to do but
camp--another
interrupted march. Our luck is really very bad. We should have
done
a good march to-day, as it is we have covered about 11 miles
(stat.).
Since supper there are signs of clearing again, but I don't like
the
look of things; this weather has been working up from the S.E.
with
all the symptoms of our pony-wrecking storm. Pray heaven we are
not
going to have this wretched snow in the worst part of the
glacier
to come. The lower part of this glacier is not very interesting,
except from an ice point of view. Except Mount Kyffen, little
bare
rock is visible, and its structure at this distance is
impossible
to determine. There are no moraines on the surface of the
glacier
either. The tributary glaciers are very fine and have cut very
deep
courses, though they do not enter at grade. The walls of this
valley
are extraordinarily steep; we count them at least 60° in places.
The
ice-falls descending over the northern sides are almost
continuous one
with another, but the southern steep faces are nearly bare;
evidently
the sun gets a good hold on them. There must be a good deal of
melting
and rock weathering, the talus heaps are considerable under the
southern rock faces. Higher up the valley there is much more
bare rock
and stratification, which promises to be very interesting, but
oh! for
fine weather; surely we have had enough of this oppressive
gloom.
Saturday, December 16
Camp 38. A gloomy morning, clearing at
noon
and ending in a gloriously fine evening. Although constantly
anxious in
the morning, the light held good for travelling throughout the
day,
and we have covered 11 miles (stat.), altering the aspect of the
glacier greatly. But the travelling has been very hard. We
started
at 7, lunched at 12.15, and marched on till 6.30--over ten hours
on
the march--the limit of time to be squeezed into one day. We
began on
ski as usual, Evans' team hampering us a bit; the pulling very
hard
after yesterday's snowfall. In the afternoon we continued on ski
till after two hours we struck a peculiarly difficult
surface--old
hard sastrugi underneath, with pits and high soft sastrugi due
to
very recent snowfalls. The sledges were so often brought up by
this
that we decided to take to our feet, and thus made better
progress,
but for the time with very excessive labour. The crust, brittle,
held for a pace or two, then let one down with a bump some 8 or
10
inches. Now and again one's leg went down a crack in the hard
ice
underneath. We drew up a slope on this surface and discovered a
long
icefall extending right across our track, I presume the same
pressure
which caused Shackleton to turn towards the Cloudmaker. We made
in
for that mountain and soon got on hard, crevassed, undulating
ice
with quantities of soft snow in the hollows. The disturbance
seems to
increase, but the snow to diminish as we approach the rocks. We
shall
look for a moraine and try and follow it up to-morrow. The hills
on
our left have horizontally stratified rock alternating with
snow. The
exposed rock is very black; the brownish colour of the
Cloudmaker has
black horizontal streaks across it. The sides of the glacier
north
of the Cloudmaker have a curious cutting, the upper part less
steep
than the lower, suggestive of different conditions of
glacier-flow
in succeeding ages.
We must push on all we can, for we are now 6 days behind
Shackleton,
all due to that wretched storm. So far, since we got amongst the
disturbances we have not seen such alarming crevasses as I had
expected; certainly dogs could have come up as far as this. At
present
one gets terrible hot and perspiring on the march, and quickly
cold
when halted, but the sun makes up for all evils. It is very
difficult
to know what to do about the ski; their weight is considerable
and yet
under certain circumstances they are extraordinarily useful.
Everyone
is very satisfied with our summit ration. The party which has
been
man-hauling for so long say they are far less hungry than they
used
to be. It is good to think that the majority will keep up this
good
feeding all through.
Sunday, December 17
Camp 39. Soon after starting we found
ourselves
in rather a mess; bad pressure ahead and long waves between us
and
the land. Blue ice showed on the crests of the waves; very soft
snow
lay in the hollows. We had to cross the waves in places 30 feet
from
crest to hollow, and we did it by sitting on the sledge and
letting
her go. Thus we went down with a rush and our impetus carried us
some
way up the other side; then followed a fearfully tough drag to
rise
the next crest. After two hours of this I saw a larger wave, the
crest
of which continued hard ice up the glacier; we reached this and
got
excellent travelling for 2 miles on it, then rose on a steep
gradient,
and so topped the pressure ridge. The smooth ice is again lost
and
we have patches of hard and soft snow with ice peeping out in
places,
cracks in all directions, and legs very frequently down. We have
done
very nearly 5 miles (geo.).
Evening
(Temp. -12°.) Height about 3500 above Barrier. After
lunch
decided to take the risk of sticking to the centre of the
glacier,
with good result. We travelled on up the more or less rounded
ridge
which I had selected in the morning, and camped at 6.30 with 12
1/2
stat. miles made good. This has put Mount Hope in the background
and shows us more of the upper reaches. If we can keep up the
pace,
we gain on Shackleton, and I don't see any reason why we
shouldn't,
except that more pressure is showing up ahead. For once one can
say
'sufficient for the day is the good thereof.' Our luck may be on
the turn--I think we deserve it. In spite of the hard work
everyone
is very fit and very cheerful, feeling well fed and eager for
more
toil. Eyes are much better except poor Wilson's; he has caught a
very
bad attack. Remembering his trouble on our last Southern
journey,
I fear he is in for a very bad time.
We got fearfully hot this morning and marched in singlets, which
became wringing wet; thus uncovered the sun gets at one's skin,
and then the wind, which makes it horribly uncomfortable.
Our lips are very sore. We cover them with the soft silk plaster
which seems about the best thing for the purpose.
I'm inclined to think that the summit trouble will be mostly due
to the
chill falling on sunburned skins. Even now one feels the cold
strike
directly one stops. We get fearfully thirsty and chip up ice on
the
march, as well as drinking a great deal of water on halting. Our
fuel
only just does it, but that is all we want, and we have a bit in
hand
for the summit.
The pulling this afternoon was fairly pleasant; at first over
hard
snow, and then on to pretty rough ice with surface snowfield
cracks,
bad for sledges, but ours promised to come through well. We have
worn our crampons all day and are delighted with them. P.O.
Evans,
the inventor of both crampons and ski shoes, is greatly pleased,
and
certainly we owe him much. The weather is beginning to look
dirty
again, snow clouds rolling in from the east as usual. I believe
it
will be overcast to-morrow.
Monday, December 18
Camp 40. Lunch nearly 4000 feet above
Barrier. Overcast and snowing this morning as I expected, land
showing
on starboard hand, so, though it was gloomy and depressing, we
could
march, and did. We have done our 8 stat. miles between 8.20 and
1
P.M.; at first fairly good surface; then the ice got very rugged
with sword-cut splits. We got on a slope which made matters
worse. I
then pulled up to the left, at first without much improvement,
but as we topped a rise the surface got much better and things
look
quite promising for the moment. On our right we have now a
pretty
good view of the Adams Marshall and Wild Mountains and their
very
curious horizontal stratification. Wright has found, amongst
bits
of wind-blown debris, an undoubted bit of sandstone and a bit of
black basalt. We must get to know more of the geology before
leaving
the glacier finally. This morning all our gear was fringed with
ice
crystals which looked very pretty.
Afternoon
(Night camp No. 40, about 4500 above
Barrier. T. -11°. Lat. about 84° 34'.) After lunch got on some
very
rough stuff within a few hundred yards of pressure ridge. There
seemed no alternative, and we went through with it. Later, the
glacier opened out into a broad basin with irregular
undulations,
and we on to a better surface, but later on again this
improvement
nearly vanished, so that it has been hard going all day, but we
have done a good mileage (over 14 stat.). We are less than five
days behind S. now. There was a promise of a clearance about
noon,
but later more snow clouds drifted over from the east, and now
it is
snowing again. We have scarcely caught a glimpse of the eastern
side
of the glacier all day. The western side has not been clear
enough to
photograph at the halts. It is very annoying, but I suppose we
must
be thankful when we can get our marches off. Still sweating
horribly
on the march and very thirsty at the halts.
Tuesday, December 19
Lunch, rise 650. Dist. 8 1/2 geo. Camp
41. Things are looking up. Started on good surface, soon came to
very
annoying criss-cross cracks. I fell into two and have bad
bruises
on knee and thigh, but we got along all the time until we
reached
an admirable smooth ice surface excellent for travelling. The
last
mile, neve predominating and therefore the pulling a trifle
harder, we
have risen into the upper basin of the glacier. Seemingly close
about
us are the various land masses which adjoin the summit: it looks
as
though we might have difficulties in the last narrows. We are
having
a long lunch hour for angles, photographs, and sketches. The
slight
south-westerly wind came down the glacier as we started, and the
sky,
which was overcast, has rapidly cleared in consequence.
Night. Height about 5800. Camp 41. We stepped off this afternoon
at the
rate of 2 miles or more an hour, with the very satisfactory
result of
17 (stat.) miles to the good for the day. It has not been a
strain,
except perhaps for me with my wounds received early in the day.
The
wind has kept us cool on the march, which has in consequence
been
very much pleasanter; we are not wet in our clothes to-night,
and
have not suffered from the same overpowering thirst as on
previous
days. (T. -11°.) (Min. -5°.) Evans and Bowers are busy taking
angles;
as they have been all day, we shall have material for an
excellent
chart. Days like this put heart in one.
Wednesday, December 20
Camp 42. 6500 feet about. Just got
off
our last best half march--10 miles 1150 yards (geo.), over 12
miles
stat. With an afternoon to follow we should do well to-day; the
wind
has been coming up the valley. Turning this book [35] seems to
have
brought luck. We marched on till nearly 7 o'clock after a long
lunch
halt, and covered 19 1/2 geo. miles, nearly 23 (stat.), rising
800
feet. This morning we came over a considerable extent of hard
snow,
then got to hard ice with patches of snow; a state of affairs
which has
continued all day. Pulling the sledges in crampons is no
difficulty at
all. At lunch Wilson and Bowers walked back 2 miles or so to try
and
find Bowers' broken sledgemeter, without result. During their
absence
a fog spread about us, carried up the valleys by easterly wind.
We
started the afternoon march in this fog very unpleasantly, but
later
it gradually lifted, and to-night it is very fine and warm. As
the fog
lifted we saw a huge line of pressure ahead; I steered for a
place
where the slope looked smoother, and we are camped beneath the
spot
to-night. We must be ahead of Shackleton's position on the 17th.
All
day we have been admiring a wonderful banded structure of the
rock;
to-night it is beautifully clear on Mount Darwin.
I have just told off the people to return to-morrow night:
Atkinson,
Wright, Cherry-Garrard, and Keohane. All are disappointed--poor
Wright
rather bitterly, I fear. I dread this necessity of
choosing--nothing
could be more heartrending. I calculated our programme to start
from
85° 10' with 12 units of food [36] and eight men. We ought to be
in
this position to-morrow night, less one day's food. After all
our
harassing trouble one cannot but be satisfied with such a
prospect.
Thursday, December 21
Camp 43. Lat. 85° 7'. Long. 163° 4'.
Height
about 8000 feet. Upon Glacier Depot. Temp. -2°. We climbed the
ice
slope this morning and found a very bad surface on top, as far
as
crevasses were concerned. We all had falls into them, Atkinson
and
Teddy Evans going down the length of their harness. Evans had
rather
a shake up. The rotten ice surface continued for a long way,
though
I crossed to and fro towards the land, trying to get on better
ground.
At 12 the wind came from the north, bringing the inevitable
[mist]
up the valley and covering us just as we were in the worst of
places. We camped for lunch, and were obliged to wait two and a
half
hours for a clearance. Then the sun began to struggle through
and
we were off. We soon got out of the worst crevasses and on to a
long
snow slope leading on part of Mount Darwin. It was a very long
stiff
pull up, and I held on till 7.30, when, the other team being
some way
astern, I camped. We have done a good march, risen to a
satisfactory
altitude, and reached a good place for our depot. To-morrow we
start
with our fullest summit load, and the first march should show us
the
possibilities of our achievement. The temperature has dropped
below
zero, but to-night it is so calm and bright that one feels
delightfully
warm and comfortable in the tent. Such weather helps greatly in
all
the sorting arrangements, &c., which are going on to-night. For
me
it is an immense relief to have the indefatigable little Bowers
to
see to all detail arrangements of this sort.
We have risen a great height to-day and I hope it will not be
necessary
to go down again, but it looks as though we must dip a bit even
to
go to the south-west.
'December 21, 1911. Lat. 85° S. We are struggling on,
considering all
things, against odds. The weather is a constant anxiety,
otherwise
arrangements are working exactly as planned.
'For your own ear also, I am exceedingly fit and can go with the
best
of them.
'It is a pity the luck doesn't come our way, because every
detail of
equipment is right.
'I write this sitting in our tent waiting for the fog to
clear--an
exasperating position as we are in the worst crevassed region.
Teddy
Evans and Atkinson were down to the length of their harness this
morning, and we have all been half-way down. As first man I get
first
chance, and it's decidedly exciting not knowing which step will
give
way. Still all this is interesting enough if one could only go
on.
'Since writing the above I made a dash for it, got out of the
valley
out of the fog and away from crevasses. So here we are
practically
on the summit and up to date in the provision line. We ought to
get through.'
CHAPTER
XVIII - THE SUMMIT JOURNEY TO THE POLE