Pro tip! Use the "find on this page" function in your browser to search
Chapter 3 - LAND
Scott's Last Expedition - The Journals of Captain R.
F. Scott
Contents
and Preface Chapters:
Chapter 1 |
Chapter 2 |
Chapter 3 |
Chapter 4 |
Chapter 5 |
Chapter 6 |
Chapter 7 |
Chapter 8 |
Chapter 9 |
Chapter 10 |
Chapter 11 |
Chapter 12 |
Chapter 13 |
Chapter 14 |
Chapter 15 |
Chapter 16 |
Chapter 17 |
Chapter 18 |
Chapter 19 |
Chapter 20 |
Appendix
Summary
(2 pages) of the
Terra Nova Expedition |
The Men
of the Expedition
Saturday, December 31. New Year's Eve
Obs. 72° 54' S.,
174°
55' E. Made good S. 45 W. 55'; C. Crozier S. 17 W. 286'
'The
New Year's Eve found us in the Ross Sea, but not at the end of
our
misfortunes.' We had a horrible night. In the first watch we
kept away
2 points and set fore and aft sail. It did not increase our
comfort
but gave us greater speed. The night dragged slowly through. I
could
not sleep thinking of the sore strait for our wretched ponies.
In
the morning watch the wind and sea increased and the outlook was
very distressing, but at six ice was sighted ahead. Under
ordinary
conditions the safe course would have been to go about and stand
to the
east. But in our case we must risk trouble to get smoother water
for
the ponies. We passed a stream of ice over which the sea was
breaking
heavily and one realised the danger of being amongst loose floes
in
such a sea. But soon we came to a compacter body of floes, and
running
behind this we were agreeably surprised to find comparatively
smooth
water. We ran on for a bit, then stopped and lay to. Now we are
lying
in a sort of ice bay--there is a mile or so of pack to windward,
and
two horns which form the bay embracing us. The sea is damped
down to
a gentle swell, although the wind is as strong as ever. As a
result
we are lying very comfortably. The ice is drifting a little
faster
than the ship so that we have occasionally to steam slowly to
leeward.
So far so good. From a dangerous position we have achieved one
which
only directly involved a waste of coal. The question is, which
will
last longest, the gale or our temporary shelter?
Rennick has just obtained a sounding of 187 fathoms; taken in
conjunction with yesterday's 1111 fathoms and Ross's sounding of
180,
this is interesting, showing the rapid gradient of the
continental
shelf. Nelson is going to put over the 8 feet Agassiz trawl.
Unfortunately we could not clear the line for the trawl--it is
stowed under the fodder. A light dredge was tried on a small
manilla
line--very little result. First the weights were insufficient to
carry it to the bottom; a second time, with more weight and
line, it
seems to have touched for a very short time only; there was
little of
value in the catch, but the biologists are learning the
difficulties
of the situation.
Evening
Our protection grew less as the day advanced but
saved
us much from the heavy swell. At 8 P.M. we started to steam west
to gain fresh protection, there being signs of pack to south and
west; the swell is again diminishing. The wind which started
south
yesterday has gone to S.S.W. (true), the main swell in from S.E.
by
S. or S.S.E. There seems to be another from south but none from
the
direction from which the wind is now blowing. The wind has been
getting
squally: now the squalls are lessening in force, the sky is
clearing
and we seem to be approaching the end of the blow. I trust it
may be
so and that the New Year will bring us better fortune than the
old.
If so, it will be some pleasure to write 1910 for the last
time
Land
oh!
At 10 P.M. to-night as the clouds lifted to the west a distant
but splendid view of the great mountains was obtained. All were
in
sunshine; Sabine and Whewell were most conspicuous--the latter
from
this view is a beautiful sharp peak, as remarkable a landmark as
Sabine
itself. Mount Sabine was 110 miles away when we saw it. I
believe we
could have seen it at a distance of 30 or 40 miles farther--such
is
the wonderful clearness of the atmosphere.
Finis 1910
1911
Sunday, January 1
Obs. 73° 5' S. 174° 11' E. Made good S. 48
W. 13.4; C. Crozier S. 15 W. 277'
At 4 A.M. we proceeded,
steaming
slowly to the S.E. The wind having gone to the S.W. and fallen
to
force 3 as we cleared the ice, we headed into a short steep
swell,
and for some hours the ship pitched most uncomfortably.
At 8 A.M. the ship was clear of the ice and headed south with
fore
and aft sail set. She is lying easier on this course, but there
is
still a good deal of motion, and would be more if we attempted
to
increase speed.
Oates reports that the ponies are taking it pretty well.
Soon after 8 A.M. the sky cleared, and we have had brilliant
sunshine
throughout the day; the wind came from the N.W. this forenoon,
but
has dropped during the afternoon. We increased to 55 revolutions
at
10 A.M. The swell is subsiding but not so quickly as I had
expected.
To-night it is absolutely calm, with glorious bright sunshine.
Several
people were sunning themselves at 11 o'clock! sitting on deck
and
reading.
The land is clear to-night. Coulman Island 75 miles west.
Sounding at 7 P.M., 187 fathoms.
Sounding at 4 A.M., 310 ,,
Monday, January 2
Obs. 75° 3', 173° 41'. Made good S. 3
W. 119'; C. Crozier S. 22 W. 159'
It has been a glorious night
followed by a glorious forenoon; the sun has been shining almost
continuously. Several of us drew a bucket of sea water and had a
bath with salt water soap on the deck. The water was cold, of
course,
but it was quite pleasant to dry oneself in the sun. The deck
bathing
habit has fallen off since we crossed the Antarctic circle, but
Bowers
has kept going in all weathers.
There is still a good deal of swell--difficult to understand
after
a day's calm--and less than 200 miles of water to wind-ward.
Wilson saw and sketched the new white stomached whale seen by us
in
the pack.
At 8.30 we sighted Mount Erebus, distant about 115 miles; the
sky
is covered with light cumulus and an easterly wind has sprung
up,
force 2 to 3. With all sail set we are making very good
progress.
Tuesday, January 3, 10 A.M
The conditions are very much the
same
as last night. We are only 24 miles from C. Crozier and the land
is
showing up well, though Erebus is veiled in stratus cloud.
It looks finer to the south and we may run into sunshine soon,
but
the wind is alarming and there is a slight swell which has
little
effect on the ship, but makes all the difference to our landing.
For the moment it doesn't look hopeful. We have been continuing
our
line of soundings. From the bank we crossed in latitude 71° the
water
has gradually got deeper, and we are now getting 310 to 350
fathoms
against 180 on the bank.
The Discovery soundings give depths up to 450 fathoms East of
Ross Island.
6 P.M
No good!! Alas! Cape Crozier with all its attractions is
denied us.
We came up to the Barrier five miles east of the Cape soon after
1 P.M. The swell from the E.N.E. continued to the end. The
Barrier
was not more than 60 feet in height. From the crow's nest one
could
see well over it, and noted that there was a gentle slope for at
least a mile towards the edge. The land of Black (or White?)
Island
could be seen distinctly behind, topping the huge lines of
pressure
ridges. We plotted the Barrier edge from the point at which we
met it
to the Crozier cliffs; to the eye it seems scarcely to have
changed
since Discovery days, and Wilson thinks it meets the cliff in
the
same place.
The Barrier takes a sharp turn back at 2 or 3 miles from the
cliffs,
runs back for half a mile, then west again with a fairly regular
surface until within a few hundred yards of the cliffs; the
interval is
occupied with a single high pressure ridge--the evidences of
pressure
at the edge being less marked than I had expected.
Ponting was very busy with cinematograph and camera. In the
angle
at the corner near the cliffs Rennick got a sounding of 140
fathoms
and Nelson some temperatures and samples. When lowering the
water
bottle on one occasion the line suddenly became slack at 100
metres,
then after a moment's pause began to run out again. We are
curious
to know the cause, and imagine the bottle struck a seal or
whale.
Meanwhile, one of the whale boats was lowered and Wilson,
Griffith
Taylor, Priestley, Evans, and I were pulled towards the shore.
The
after-guard are so keen that the proper boat's crew was
displaced and
the oars manned by Oates, Atkinson, and Cherry-Garrard, the
latter
catching several crabs.
The swell made it impossible for us to land. I had hoped to see
whether there was room to pass between the pressure ridge and
the
cliff, a route by which Royds once descended to the Emperor
rookery;
as we approached the corner we saw that a large piece of sea
floe ice
had been jammed between the Barrier and the cliff and had
buckled
up till its under surface stood 3 or 4 ft. above the water. On
top
of this old floe we saw an old Emperor moulting and a young one
shedding its down. (The down had come off the head and flippers
and commenced to come off the breast in a vertical line similar
to
the ordinary moult.) This is an age and stage of development of
the
Emperor chick of which we have no knowledge, and it would have
been
a triumph to have secured the chick, but, alas! there was no way
to
get at it. Another most curious sight was the feet and tails of
two
chicks and the flipper of an adult bird projecting from the ice
on
the under side of the jammed floe; they had evidently been
frozen in
above and were being washed out under the floe.
Finding it impossible to land owing to the swell, we pulled
along
the cliffs for a short way. These Crozier cliffs are remarkably
interesting. The rock, mainly volcanic tuff, includes thick
strata
of columnar basalt, and one could see beautiful designs of
jammed
and twisted columns as well as caves with whole and half pillars
very much like a miniature Giant's Causeway. Bands of bright
yellow
occurred in the rich brown of the cliffs, caused, the geologists
think, by the action of salts on the brown rock. In places the
cliffs
overhung. In places, the sea had eaten long low caves deep under
them,
and continued to break into them over a shelving beach. Icicles
hung
pendant everywhere, and from one fringe a continuous trickle of
thaw
water had swollen to a miniature waterfall. It was like a big
hose
playing over the cliff edge. We noticed a very clear echo as we
passed
close to a perpendicular rock face. Later we returned to the
ship,
which had been trying to turn in the bay--she is not very
satisfactory
in this respect owing to the difficulty of starting the engines
either
ahead or astern--several minutes often elapse after the
telegraph
has been put over before there is any movement of the engines.
It makes the position rather alarming when one is feeling one's
way
into some doubtful corner. When the whaler was hoisted we
proceeded
round to the penguin rookery; hopes of finding a quiet landing
had
now almost disappeared.8
There were several small grounded bergs close to the rookery;
going
close to these we got repeated soundings varying from 34 down to
12
fathoms. There is evidently a fairly extensive bank at the foot
of the
rookery. There is probably good anchorage behind some of the
bergs,
but none of these afford shelter for landing on the beach, on
which the
sea is now breaking incessantly; it would have taken weeks to
land the
ordinary stores and heaven only knows how we could have got the
ponies
and motor sledges ashore. Reluctantly and sadly we have had to
abandon
our cherished plan--it is a thousand pities. Every detail of the
shore
promised well for a wintering party. Comfortable quarters for
the hut,
ice for water, snow for the animals, good slopes for ski-ing,
vast
tracks of rock for walks. Proximity to the Barrier and to the
rookeries
of two types of penguins--easy ascent of Mount Terror--good
ground for
biological work--good peaks for observation of all sorts--fairly
easy
approach to the Southern Road, with no chance of being cut
off--and
so forth. It is a thousand pities to have to abandon such a
spot.
On passing the rookery it seemed to me we had been wrong in
assuming
that all the guano is blown away. I think there must be a pretty
good deposit in places. The penguins could be seen very clearly
from the ship. On the large rookery they occupy an immense
acreage,
and one imagines have extended as far as shelter can be found.
But
on the small rookery they are patchy and there seems ample room
for
the further extension of the colonies. Such unused spaces would
have
been ideal for a wintering station if only some easy way could
have
been found to land stores.
I noted many groups of penguins on the snow slopes over-looking
the
sea far from the rookeries, and one finds it difficult to
understand
why they meander away to such places.
A number of killer whales rose close to the ship when we were
opposite
the rookery. What an excellent time these animals must have with
thousands of penguins passing to and fro!
We saw our old Discovery post-office pole sticking up as erect
as
when planted, and we have been comparing all we have seen with
old
photographs. No change at all seems to have taken place
anywhere,
and this is very surprising in the case of the Barrier edge.
From the penguin rookeries to the west it is a relentless coast
with high ice cliffs and occasional bare patches of rock showing
through. Even if landing were possible, the grimmest crevassed
snow
slopes lie behind to cut one off from the Barrier surface; there
is
no hope of shelter till we reach Cape Royds.
Meanwhile all hands are employed making a running survey. I give
an
idea of the programme opposite. Terror cleared itself of cloud
some
hours ago, and we have had some change in views of it. It is
quite
certain that the ascent would be easy. The Bay on the north side
of
Erebus is much deeper than shown on the chart.
The sun has been obstinate all day, peeping out occasionally and
then
shyly retiring; it makes a great difference to comfort.
Programme
Bruce continually checking speed with hand log.
Bowers taking altitudes of objects as they come abeam.
Nelson noting results.
Pennell taking verge plate bearings on bow and quarter.
Cherry-Garrard noting results.
Evans taking verge plate bearings abeam.
Atkinson noting results.
Campbell taking distances abeam with range finder.
Wright noting results.
Rennick sounding with Thomson machine.
Drake noting results.
Beaufort Island looks very black from the south.
10.30
We find pack off Cape Bird; we have passed through some
streams and there is some open water ahead, but I'm afraid we
may
find the ice pretty thick in the Strait at this date.
Wednesday, January 4, 1 A.M
We are around Cape Bird and in
sight of
our destination, but it is doubtful if the open water extends so
far.
We have advanced by following an open water lead close along the
land. Cape Bird is a very rounded promontory with many
headlands;
it is not easy to say which of these is the Cape.
The same grim unattainable ice-clad coast line extends
continuously
from the Cape Crozier Rookery to Cape Bird. West of C. Bird
there is
a very extensive expanse of land, and on it one larger and
several
small penguin rookeries.
On the uniform dark reddish brown of the land can be seen
numerous
grey spots; these are erratic boulders of granite. Through
glasses
one could be seen perched on a peak at least 1300 feet above the
sea.
Another group of killer whales were idly diving off the penguin
rookery; an old one with a very high straight dorsal fin and
several
youngsters. We watched a small party of penguins leaping through
the
water towards their enemies. It seemed impossible that they
should
have failed to see the sinister fins during their frequent jumps
into
the air, yet they seemed to take no notice whatever--stranger
still,
the penguins must have actually crossed the whales, yet there
was no
commotion whatever, and presently the small birds could be seen
leaping
away on the other side. One can only suppose the whales are
satiated.
As we rounded Cape Bird we came in sight of the old
well-remembered
land marks--Mount Discovery and the Western Mountains--seen
dimly
through a hazy atmosphere. It was good to see them again, and
perhaps
after all we are better this side of the Island. It gives one a
homely
feeling to see such a familiar scene.
4 A.M
The steep exposed hill sides on the west side of Cape
Bird look
like high cliffs as one gets south of them and form a most
conspicuous
land mark. We pushed past these cliffs into streams of heavy bay
ice,
making fair progress; as we proceeded the lanes became scarcer,
the
floes heavier, but the latter remain loose. 'Many of us spent
the
night on deck as we pushed through the pack.' We have passed
some
very large floes evidently frozen in the strait. This is
curious,
as all previous evidence has pointed to the clearance of ice
sheets
north of Cape Royds early in the spring.
I have observed several floes with an entirely new type of
surface. They are covered with scales, each scale consisting of
a
number of little flaky ice sheets superimposed, and all
'dipping'
at the same angle. It suggests to me a surface with sastrugi and
layers of fine dust on which the snow has taken hold.
We are within 5 miles of Cape Royds and ought to get there.
Wednesday, January 4, P.M.
This work is full of surprises.
At 6 A.M. we came through the last of the Strait pack some three
miles north of Cape Royds. We steered for the Cape, fully
expecting
to find the edge of the pack ice ranging westward from it. To
our
astonishment we ran on past the Cape with clear water or thin
sludge
ice on all sides of us. Past Cape Royds, past Cape Barne, past
the
glacier on its south side, and finally round and past
Inaccessible
Island, a good 2 miles south of Cape Royds. 'The Cape itself was
cut
off from the south.' We could have gone farther, but the last
sludge
ice seemed to be increasing in thickness, and there was no
wintering
spot to aim for but Cape Armitage. [5] 'I have never seen the
ice of
the Sound in such a condition or the land so free from snow.
Taking
these facts in conjunction with the exceptional warmth of the
air,
I came to the conclusion that it had been an exceptionally warm
summer. At this point it was evident that we had a considerable
choice
of wintering spots. We could have gone to either of the small
islands,
to the mainland, the Glacier Tongue, or pretty well anywhere
except Hut
Point. My main wish was to choose a place that would not be
easily cut
off from the Barrier, and my eye fell on a cape which we used to
call
the Skuary a little behind us. It was separated from old
Discovery
quarters by two deep bays on either side of the Glacier Tongue,
and I thought that these bays would remain frozen until late in
the
season, and that when they froze over again the ice would soon
become
firm.' I called a council and put these propositions. To push on
to
the Glacier Tongue and winter there; to push west to the
'tombstone'
ice and to make our way to an inviting spot to the northward of
the
cape we used to call 'the Skuary.' I favoured the latter course,
and on discussion we found it obviously the best, so we turned
back
close around Inaccessible Island and steered for the fast ice
off
the Cape at full speed. After piercing a small fringe of thin
ice
at the edge of the fast floe the ship's stem struck heavily on
hard
bay ice about a mile and a half from the shore. Here was a road
to the Cape and a solid wharf on which to land our stores. We
made
fast with ice anchors. Wilson, Evans, and I went to the Cape,
which
I had now rechristened Cape Evans in honour of our excellent
second
in command. A glance at the land showed, as we expected, ideal
spots
for our wintering station. The rock of the Cape consists mainly
of
volcanic agglomerate with olivine kenyte; it is much weathered
and
the destruction had formed quantities of coarse sand. We chose a
spot
for the hut on a beach facing N.W. and well protected by
numerous
small hills behind. This spot seems to have all the local
advantages
(which I must detail later) for a winter station, and we
realised that
at length our luck had turned. The most favourable circumstance
of
all is the stronge chance of communication with Cape Armitage
being
established at an early date.
It was in connection with this fact that I had had such a strong
desire to go to Mount Terror, and such misgivings if we had been
forced to go to Cape Royds. It is quite evident that the ice
south of
Cape Royds does not become secure till late in the season,
probably
in May. Before that, all evidence seems to show that the part
between
Cape Royds and Cape Barne is continually going out. How, I ask
myself,
was our depot party to get back to home quarters? I feel
confident we
can get to the new spot we have chosen at a comparatively early
date;
it will probably only be necessary to cross the sea ice in the
deep
bays north and south of the Glacier Tongue, and the ice rarely
goes
out of there after it has first formed. Even if it should, both
stages
can be seen before the party ventures upon them.
After many frowns fortune has treated us to the kindest
smile--for
twenty-four hours we have had a calm with brilliant sunshine.
Such
weather in such a place comes nearer to satisfying my ideal of
perfection than any condition that I have ever experienced. The
warm
glow of the sun with the keen invigorating cold of the air forms
a
combination which is inexpressibly health-giving and satisfying
to me,
whilst the golden light on this wonderful scene of mountain and
ice
satisfies every claim of scenic magnificence. No words of mine
can
convey the impressiveness of the wonderful panorama displayed to
our
eyes. Ponting is enraptured and uses expressions which in anyone
else
and alluding to any other subject might be deemed extravagant.
The Landing: A Week's Work
Whilst we were on shore Campbell was taking the first steps
towards
landing our stores. Two of the motor sledges were soon hoisted
out, and Day with others was quickly unpacking them. Our luck
stood
again. In spite of all the bad weather and the tons of sea water
which
had washed over them the sledges and all the accessories
appeared as
fresh and clean as if they had been packed on the previous
day--much
credit is due to the officers who protected them with tarpaulins
and
lashings. After the sledges came the turn of the ponies--there
was a
good deal of difficulty in getting some of them into the horse
box,
but Oates rose to the occasion and got most in by persuasion,
whilst
others were simply lifted in by the sailors. Though all are thin
and
some few looked pulled down I was agreeably surprised at the
evident
vitality which they still possessed--some were even skittish. I
cannot
express the relief when the whole seventeen were safely picketed
on the
floe. From the moment of getting on the snow they seemed to take
a new
lease of life, and I haven't a doubt they will pick up very
rapidly. It
really is a triumph to have got them through safely and as well
as
they are. Poor brutes, how they must have enjoyed their first
roll,
and how glad they must be to have freedom to scratch themselves!
It is
evident all have suffered from skin irritation--one can imagine
the
horror of suffering from such an ill for weeks without being
able to
get at the part that itched. I note that now they are picketed
together
they administer kindly offices to each other; one sees them
gnawing
away at each other's flanks in most amicable and obliging
manner.
Meares and the dogs were out early, and have been running to and
fro
most of the day with light loads. The great trouble with them
has
been due to the fatuous conduct of the penguins. Groups of these
have
been constantly leaping on to our floe. From the moment of
landing
on their feet their whole attitude expressed devouring curiosity
and
a pig-headed disregard for their own safety. They waddle
forward,
poking their heads to and fro in their usually absurd way, in
spite of
a string of howling dogs straining to get at them. 'Hulloa,'
they seem
to say, 'here's a game--what do all you ridiculous things want?'
And
they come a few steps nearer. The dogs make a rush as far as
their
leashes or harness allow. The penguins are not daunted in the
least,
but their ruffs go up and they squawk with semblance of anger,
for all
the world as though they were rebuking a rude stranger--their
attitude
might be imagined to convey 'Oh, that's the sort of animal you
are;
well, you've come to the wrong place--we aren't going to be
bluffed
and bounced by you,' and then the final fatal steps forward are
taken
and they come within reach. There is a spring, a squawk, a
horrid red
patch on the snow, and the incident is closed. Nothing can stop
these
silly birds. Members of our party rush to head them off, only to
be
met with evasions--the penguins squawk and duck as much as to
say,
'What's it got to do with you, you silly ass? Let us alone.'
With the first spilling of blood the skua gulls assemble, and
soon,
for them at least, there is a gruesome satisfaction to be
reaped. Oddly
enough, they don't seem to excite the dogs; they simply alight
within
a few feet and wait for their turn in the drama, clamouring and
quarrelling amongst themselves when the spoils accrue. Such
incidents
were happening constantly to-day, and seriously demoralising the
dog
teams. Meares was exasperated again and again.
The motor sledges were running by the afternoon, Day managing
one and
Nelson the other. In spite of a few minor breakdowns they hauled
good
loads to the shore. It is early to call them a success, but they
are
certainly extremely promising.
The next thing to be got out of the ship was the hut, and the
large
quantity of timber comprising it was got out this afternoon.
And so to-night, with the sun still shining, we look on a very
different prospect from that of 48 or even 24 hours ago.
I have just come back from the shore.
The site for the hut is levelled and the erecting party is
living
on shore in our large green tent with a supply of food for eight
days. Nearly all the timber, &c., of the hut is on shore, the
remainder half-way there. The ponies are picketed in a line on a
convenient snow slope so that they cannot eat sand. Oates and
Anton
are sleeping ashore to watch over them. The dogs are tied to a
long
length of chain stretched on the sand; they are coiled up after
a
long day, looking fitter already. Meares and Demetri are
sleeping
in the green tent to look after them. A supply of food for
ponies
and dogs as well as for the men has been landed. Two motor
sledges
in good working order are safely on the beach.
A fine record for our first day's work. All hands start again at
6
A.M. to-morrow.
It's splendid to see at last the effect of all the months of
preparation and organisation. There is much snoring about me as
I
write (2 P.M.) from men tired after a hard day's work and
preparing
for such another to-morrow. I also must sleep, for I have had
none
for 48 hours--but it should be to dream happily.
Thursday, January 5
All hands were up at 5 this morning and
at
work at 6. Words cannot express the splendid way in which
everyone
works and gradually the work gets organised. I was a little late
on
the scene this morning, and thereby witnessed a most
extraordinary
scene. Some 6 or 7 killer whales, old and young, were skirting
the fast
floe edge ahead of the ship; they seemed excited and dived
rapidly,
almost touching the floe. As we watched, they suddenly appeared
astern,
raising their snouts out of water. I had heard weird stories of
these
beasts, but had never associated serious danger with them. Close
to
the water's edge lay the wire stern rope of the ship, and our
two
Esquimaux dogs were tethered to this. I did not think of
connecting
the movements of the whales with this fact, and seeing them so
close
I shouted to Ponting, who was standing abreast of the ship. He
seized
his camera and ran towards the floe edge to get a close picture
of the
beasts, which had momentarily disappeared. The next moment the
whole
floe under him and the dogs heaved up and split into fragments.
One
could hear the 'booming' noise as the whales rose under the ice
and
struck it with their backs. Whale after whale rose under the
ice,
setting it rocking fiercely; luckily Ponting kept his feet and
was
able to fly to security. By an extraordinary chance also, the
splits
had been made around and between the dogs, so that neither of
them
fell into the water. Then it was clear that the whales shared
our
astonishment, for one after another their huge hideous heads
shot
vertically into the air through the cracks which they had made.
As
they reared them to a height of 6 or 8 feet it was possible to
see
their tawny head markings, their small glistening eyes, and
their
terrible array of teeth--by far the largest and most terrifying
in
the world. There cannot be a doubt that they looked up to see
what
had happened to Ponting and the dogs.
The latter were horribly frightened and strained to their
chains,
whining; the head of one killer must certainly have been within
5
feet of one of the dogs.
After this, whether they thought the game insignificant, or
whether
they missed Ponting is uncertain, but the terrifying creatures
passed
on to other hunting grounds, and we were able to rescue the
dogs,
and what was even more important, our petrol--5 or 6 tons of
which was
waiting on a piece of ice which was not split away from the main
mass.
Of course, we have known well that killer whales continually
skirt
the edge of the floes and that they would undoubtedly snap up
anyone
who was unfortunate enough to fall into the water; but the facts
that they could display such deliberate cunning, that they were
able
to break ice of such thickness (at least 2 1/2 feet), and that
they
could act in unison, were a revelation to us. It is clear that
they
are endowed with singular intelligence, and in future we shall
treat
that intelligence with every respect.
Notes on the Killer or Grampus ( Orca gladiator )
One killed at Greenwich, 31 feet.
Teeth about 2 1/2 inches above jaw; about 3 1/2 inches total
length.
'British Quadrupeds'--Bell:
'The fierceness and voracity of the killer, in which it
surpasses
all other known cetaceans.'
In stomach of a 21 ft. specimen were found remains of 13
porpoises
and 14 seals.
A herd of white whales has been seen driven into a bay and
literally
torn to pieces.
Teeth, large, conical, and slightly recurred, 11 or 12 on each
side
of either jaw.
'Mammals'--Flower and Lydekker:
'Distinguished from all their allies by great strength and
ferocity.'
'Combine in packs to hunt down and destroy . . . full sized
whales.'
' Marine Mammalia'--Scammon :
Adult males average 20 feet; females 15 feet.
Strong sharp conical teeth which interlock. Combines great
strength
with agility.
Spout 'low and bushy.'
Habits exhibit a boldness and cunning peculiar to their
carnivorous
propensities.
Three or four do not hesitate to grapple the largest baleen
whales, who
become paralysed with terror--frequently evince no efforts to
escape.
Instances have occurred where a band of orcas laid siege to
whales
in tow, and although frequently lanced and cut with boat spades,
made away with their prey.
Inclined to believe it rarely attacks larger cetaceans.
Possessed of great swiftness.
Sometimes seen peering above the surface with a seal in their
bristling
jaws, shaking and crushing their victims and swallowing them
apparently
with gusto.
Tear white whales into pieces.
Ponting has been ravished yesterday by a view of the ship seen
from a
big cave in an iceberg, and wished to get pictures of it. He
succeeded
in getting some splendid plates. This fore-noon I went to the
iceberg
with him and agreed that I had rarely seen anything more
beautiful
than this cave. It was really a sort of crevasse in a tilted
berg
parallel to the original surface; the strata on either side had
bent
outwards; through the back the sky could be seen through a
screen
of beautiful icicles--it looked a royal purple, whether by
contrast
with the blue of the cavern or whether from optical illusion I
do
not know. Through the larger entrance could be seen, also partly
through icicles, the ship, the Western Mountains, and a lilac
sky;
a wonderfully beautiful picture.
Ponting is simply entranced with this view of Mt. Erebus, and
with
the two bergs in the foreground and some volunteers he works up
foregrounds to complete his picture of it.
I go to bed very satisfied with the day's work, but hoping for
better
results with the improved organisation and familiarity with the
work.
To-day we landed the remainder of the woodwork of the hut, all
the
petrol, paraffin and oil of all descriptions, and a quantity of
oats for the ponies besides odds and ends. The ponies are to
begin
work to-morrow; they did nothing to-day, but the motor sledges
did
well--they are steadying down to their work and made nothing but
non-stop runs to-day. One begins to believe they will be
reliable,
but I am still fearing that they will not take such heavy loads
as
we hoped.
Day is very pleased and thinks he's going to do wonders, and
Nelson
shares his optimism. The dogs find the day work terribly heavy
and
Meares is going to put them on to night work.
The framework of the hut is nearly up; the hands worked till 1
A.M. this morning and were at it again at 7 A.M
an instance of
the
spirit which actuates everyone. The men teams formed of the
after-guard
brought in good loads, but they are not yet in condition. The
hut is
about 11 or 12 feet above the water as far as I can judge. I
don't
think spray can get so high in such a sheltered spot even if we
get
a northerly gale when the sea is open.
In all other respects the situation is admirable. This work
makes
one very tired for Diary-writing.
Friday, January 6
We got to work at 6 again this morning.
Wilson,
Atkinson, Cherry-Garrard, and I took each a pony, returned to
the ship,
and brought a load ashore; we then changed ponies and repeated
the
process. We each took three ponies in the morning, and I took
one in
the afternoon.
Bruce, after relief by Rennick, took one in the morning and one
in the
afternoon--of the remaining five Oates deemed two unfit for work
and
three requiring some breaking in before getting to serious
business.
I was astonished at the strength of the beasts I handled; three
out
of the four pulled hard the whole time and gave me much
exercise. I
brought back loads of 700 lbs. and on one occasion over 1000
lbs.
With ponies, motor sledges, dogs, and men parties we have done
an
excellent day of transporting--another such day should
practically
finish all the stores and leave only fuel and fodder (60 tons)
to
complete our landing. So far it has been remarkably expeditious.
The motor sledges are working well, but not very well; the small
difficulties will be got over, but I rather fear they will never
draw
the loads we expect of them. Still they promise to be a help,
and
they are lively and attractive features of our present scene as
they
drone along over the floe. At a little distance, without
silencers,
they sound exactly like threshing machines.
The dogs are getting better, but they only take very light loads
still and get back from each journey pretty dead beat. In their
present state they don't inspire confidence, but the hot weather
is
much against them.
The men parties have done splendidly. Campbell and his Eastern
Party
made eight journeys in the day, a distance over 24 miles.
Everyone
declares that the ski sticks greatly help pulling; it is
surprising
that we never thought of using them before.
Atkinson is very bad with snow blindness to-night; also Bruce.
Others
have a touch of the same disease. It's well for people to get
experience of the necessity of safeguarding their eyes.
The only thing which troubles me at present is the wear on our
sledges owing to the hard ice. No great harm has been done so
far,
thanks to the excellent wood of which the runners are made, but
we can't afford to have them worn. Wilson carried out a
suggestion
of his own to-night by covering the runners of a 9-ft. sledge
with
strips from the skin of a seal which he killed and flensed for
the
purpose. I shouldn't wonder if this acted well, and if it does
we
will cover more sledges in a similar manner. We shall also try
Day's
new under-runners to-morrow. After 48 hours of brilliant
sunshine we
have a haze over the sky.
List of sledges:
12 ft. 11 in use
14 spare
10 ft. 10 not now used
9 ft. 10 in use
To-day I walked over our peninsula to see what the southern side
was
like. Hundreds of skuas were nesting and attacked in the usual
manner
as I passed. They fly round shrieking wildly until they have
gained
some altitude. They then swoop down with great impetus directly
at one's head, lifting again when within a foot of it. The
bolder
ones actually beat on one's head with their wings as they pass.
At
first it is alarming, but experience shows that they never
strike
except with their wings. A skua is nesting on a rock between the
ponies and the dogs. People pass every few minutes within a pace
or two, yet the old bird has not deserted its chick. In fact, it
seems gradually to be getting confidence, for it no longer
attempts
to swoop at the intruder. To-day Ponting went within a few feet,
and by dint of patience managed to get some wonderful
cinematograph
pictures of its movements in feeding and tending its chick, as
well
as some photographs of these events at critical times.
The main channel for thaw water at Cape Evans is now quite a
rushing
stream.
Evans, Pennell, and Rennick have got sight for meridian
distance;
we ought to get a good longitude fix.
Saturday, January 7
The sun has returned. To-day it seemed
better
than ever and the glare was blinding. There are quite a number
of
cases of snow blindness.
We have done splendidly. To-night all the provisions except some
in
bottles are ashore and nearly all the working paraphernalia of
the
scientific people--no light item. There remains some hut
furniture,
2 1/2 tons of carbide, some bottled stuff, and some odds and
ends
which should occupy only part of to-morrow; then we come to the
two
last and heaviest items--coal and horse fodder.
If we are not through in the week we shall be very near it.
Meanwhile
the ship is able to lay at the ice edge without steam; a
splendid
saving.
There has been a steady stream of cases passing along the shore
route
all day and transport arrangements are hourly improving.
Two parties of four and three officers made ten journeys each,
covering over 25 miles and dragging loads one way which averaged
250
to 300 lbs. per man.
The ponies are working well now, but beginning to give some
excitement. On the whole they are fairly quiet beasts, but they
get restive with their loads, mainly but indirectly owing to the
smoothness of the ice. They know perfectly well that the swingle
trees
and traces are hanging about their hocks and hate it. (I imagine
it
gives them the nervous feeling that they are going to be carried
off
their feet.) This makes it hard to start them, and when going
they
seem to appreciate the fact that the sledges will overrun them
should
they hesitate or stop. The result is that they are constantly
fretful
and the more nervous ones tend to become refractory and
unmanageable.
Oates is splendid with them--I do not know what we should do
without
him.
I did seven journeys with ponies and got off with a bump on the
head
and some scratches.
One pony got away from Debenham close to the ship, and galloped
the
whole way in with its load behind; the load capsized just off
the
shore and the animal and sledge dashed into the station. Oates
very
wisely took this pony straight back for another load.
Two or three ponies got away as they were being harnessed, and
careered
up the hill again. In fact there were quite a lot of minor
incidents
which seemed to endanger life and limb to the animals if not the
men,
but which all ended safely.
One of Meares' dog teams ran away--one poor dog got turned over
at
the start and couldn't get up again (Muk/aka). He was dragged at
a
gallop for nearly half a mile; I gave him up as dead, but
apparently
he was very little hurt.
The ponies are certainly going to keep things lively as time
goes on
and they get fresher. Even as it is, their condition can't be
half
as bad as we imagined; the runaway pony wasn't much done even
after
the extra trip.
The station is beginning to assume the appearance of an orderly
camp. We continue to find advantages in the situation; the long
level
beach has enabled Bowers to arrange his stores in the most
systematic
manner. Everything will be handy and there will never be a doubt
as
to the position of a case when it is wanted. The hut is
advancing
apace--already the matchboarding is being put on. The framework
is
being clothed. It should be extraordinarily warm and
comfortable,
for in addition to this double coating of insulation, dry
seaweed in
quilted sacking, I propose to stack the pony fodder all around
it.
I am wondering how we shall stable the ponies in the winter.
The only drawback to the present position is that the ice is
getting
thin and sludgy in the cracks and on some of the floes. The
ponies drop
their feet through, but most of them have evidently been
accustomed
to something of the sort; they make no fuss about it. Everything
points to the desirability of the haste which we are making--so
we
go on to-morrow, Sunday.
A whole host of minor ills besides snow blindness have come upon
us. Sore faces and lips, blistered feet, cuts and abrasions;
there are
few without some troublesome ailment, but, of course, such
things are
'part of the business.' The soles of my feet are infernally
sore.
'Of course the elements are going to be troublesome, but it is
good
to know them as the only adversary and to feel there is so small
a
chance of internal friction.'
Ponting had an alarming adventure about this time. Bent on
getting
artistic photographs with striking objects, such as hummocked
floes
or reflecting water, in the foreground, he used to depart with
his
own small sledge laden with cameras and cinematograph to journey
alone to the grounded icebergs. One morning as he tramped along
harnessed to his sledge, his snow glasses clouded with the mist
of
perspiration, he suddenly felt the ice giving under his feet. He
describes the sensation as the worst he ever experienced, and
one can
well believe it; there was no one near to have lent assistance
had he
gone through. Instinctively he plunged forward, the ice giving
at every
step and the sledge dragging through water. Providentially the
weak
area he had struck was very limited, and in a minute or two he
pulled
out on a firm surface. He remarked that he was perspiring very
freely!
Looking back it is easy to see that we were terribly incautious
in
our treatment of this decaying ice.
CHAPTER
IV - SETTLING IN