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Chapter 7 - AT DISCOVERY HUT
Scott's Last Expedition - The Journals of Captain R.
F. Scott
Contents
and Preface Chapters:
Chapter 1 |
Chapter 2 |
Chapter 3 |
Chapter 4 |
Chapter 5 |
Chapter 6 |
Chapter 7 |
Chapter 8 |
Chapter 9 |
Chapter 10 |
Chapter 11 |
Chapter 12 |
Chapter 13 |
Chapter 14 |
Chapter 15 |
Chapter 16 |
Chapter 17 |
Chapter 18 |
Chapter 19 |
Chapter 20 |
Appendix
Summary
(2 pages) of the
Terra Nova Expedition |
The Men
of the Expedition
Monday, March 6, A.M
Roused the hands
at 7.30. Wilson, Bowers,
Garrard, and I went out to Castle Rock. We met Evans just short
of
his camp and found the loads had been dragged up the hill. Oates
and Keohane had gone back to lead on the ponies. At the top of
the
ridge we harnessed men and ponies to the sledges and made rapid
progress on a good surface towards the hut. The weather grew
very
thick towards the end of the march, with all signs of a
blizzard. We
unharnessed the ponies at the top of Ski slope--Wilson guided
them
down from rock patch to rock patch; the remainder of us got down
a
sledge and necessaries over the slope. It is a ticklish business
to
get the sledge along the ice foot, which is now all blue ice
ending
in a drop to the sea. One has to be certain that the party has
good
foothold. All reached the hut in safety. The ponies have
admirably
comfortable quarters under the verandah.
After some cocoa we fetched in the rest of the dogs from the Gap
and
another sledge from the hill. It had ceased to snow and the wind
had
gone down slightly. Turned in with much relief to have all hands
and
the animals safely housed.
Tuesday, March 7, A.M
Yesterday went over to Pram Point with
Wilson. We found that the corner of sea ice in Pram Point Bay
had
not gone out--it was crowded with seals. We killed a young one
and
carried a good deal of the meat and some of the blubber back
with us.
Meanwhile the remainder of the party had made some progress
towards
making the hut more comfortable. In the afternoon we all set to
in
earnest and by supper time had wrought wonders.
We have made a large L-shaped inner apartment with
packing-cases,
the intervals stopped with felt. An empty kerosene tin and some
firebricks have been made into an excellent little stove, which
has
been connected to the old stove-pipe. The solider fare of our
meals
is either stewed or fried on this stove whilst the tea or cocoa
is
being prepared on a primus.
The temperature of the hut is low, of course, but in every other
respect we are absolutely comfortable. There is an unlimited
quantity
of biscuit, and our discovery at Pram Point means an unlimited
supply of seal meat. We have heaps of cocoa, coffee, and tea,
and a
sufficiency of sugar and salt. In addition a small store of
luxuries,
chocolate, raisins, lentils, oatmeal, sardines, and jams, which
will
serve to vary the fare. One way and another we shall manage to
be
very comfortable during our stay here, and already we can regard
it
as a temporary home.
Thursday, March 9, A.M
Yesterday and to-day very busy about
the
hut and overcoming difficulties fast. The stove threatened to
exhaust
our store of firewood. We have redesigned it so that it takes
only a
few chips of wood to light it and then continues to give great
heat
with blubber alone. To-day there are to be further improvements
to
regulate the draught and increase the cooking range. We have
further
housed in the living quarters with our old Discovery winter
awning,
and begin already to retain the heat which is generated inside.
We are
beginning to eat blubber and find biscuits fried in it to be
delicious.
We really have everything necessary for our comfort and only
need
a little more experience to make the best of our resources. The
weather has been wonderfully, perhaps ominously, fine during the
last few days. The sea has frozen over and broken up several
times
already. The warm sun has given a grand opportunity to dry all
gear.
Yesterday morning Bowers went with a party to pick up the stores
rescued from the floe last week. Evans volunteered to join the
party
with Meares, Keohane, Atkinson, and Gran. They started from the
hut
about 10 A.M.; we helped them up the hill, and at 7.30 I saw
them reach
the camp containing the gear, some 12 miles away. I don't expect
them
in till to-morrow night.
It is splendid to see the way in which everyone is learning the
ropes, and the resource which is being shown. Wilson as usual
leads
in the making of useful suggestions and in generally providing
for
our wants. He is a tower of strength in checking the ill-usage
of
clothes--what I have come to regard as the greatest danger with
Englishmen.
Friday, March 10, A.M
Went yesterday to Castle Rock with
Wilson
to see what chance there might be of getting to Cape Evans. [17]
The day was bright and it was quite warm walking in the sun.
There
is no doubt the route to Cape Evans lies over the worst corner
of
Erebus. From this distance the whole mountain side looks a mass
of
crevasses, but a route might be found at a level of 3000 or 4000
ft.
The hut is getting warmer and more comfortable. We have very
excellent
nights; it is cold only in the early morning. The outside
temperatures
range from 8° or so in the day to 2° at night. To-day there is a
strong
S.E. wind with drift. We are going to fetch more blubber for the
stove.
Saturday, March 11, A.M.
Went yesterday morning to Pram Point
to
fetch in blubber--wind very strong to Gap but very little on
Pram
Point side.
In the evening went half-way to Castle Rock; strong bitter cold
wind on
summit. Could not see the sledge party, but after supper they
arrived,
having had very hard pulling. They had had no wind at all till
they
approached the hut. Their temperatures had fallen to -10° and
-15°,
but with bright clear sunshine in the daytime. They had
thoroughly
enjoyed their trip and the pulling on ski.
Life in the hut is much improved, but if things go too fast
there
will be all too little to think about and give occupation in the
hut.
It is astonishing how the miscellaneous assortment of articles
remaining in and about the hut have been put to useful purpose.
This deserves description. 15
Monday, March 13, A.M
The weather grew bad on Saturday night
and we had a mild blizzard yesterday. The wind went to the south
and increased in force last night, and this morning there was
quite
a heavy sea breaking over the ice foot. The spray came almost up
to
the dogs. It reminds us of the gale in which we drove ashore in
the
Discovery. We have had some trouble with our blubber stove and
got
the hut very full of smoke on Saturday night. As a result we are
all as
black as sweeps and our various garments are covered with oily
soot. We
look a fearful gang of ruffians. The blizzard has delayed our
plans
and everyone's attention is bent on the stove, the cooking, and
the
various internal arrangements. Nothing is done without a great
amount
of advice received from all quarters, and consequently things
are
pretty well done. The hut has a pungent odour of blubber and
blubber
smoke. We have grown accustomed to it, but imagine that
ourselves and
our clothes will be given a wide berth when we return to Cape
Evans.
Wednesday, March 15, A.M
It was blowing continuously from
the
south throughout Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday--I never remember
such
a persistent southerly wind.
Both Monday and Tuesday I went up Crater Hill. I feared that our
floe
at Pram Point would go, but yesterday it still remained, though
the
cracks are getting more open. We should be in a hole if it went.
[18]
As I came down the hill yesterday I saw a strange figure
advancing and
found it belonged to Griffith Taylor. He and his party had
returned
safely. They were very full of their adventures. The main part
of
their work seems to be rediscovery of many facts which were
noted but
perhaps passed over too lightly in the Discovery --but it is
certain
that the lessons taught by the physiographical and ice features
will
now be thoroughly explained. A very interesting fact lies in the
continuous bright sunshiny weather which the party enjoyed
during
the first four weeks of their work. They seem to have avoided
all
our stormy winds and blizzards.
But I must leave Griffith Taylor to tell his own story, which
will
certainly be a lengthy one. The party gives Evans [P.O.] a very
high character.
To-day we have a large seal-killing party. I hope to get in a
good
fortnight's allowance of blubber as well as meat, and pray that
our
floe will remain.
Friday, March 17, A.M
We killed eleven seals at Pram Point
on
Wednesday, had lunch on the Point, and carried some half ton of
the
blubber and meat back to camp--it was a stiff pull up the hill.
Yesterday the last Corner Party started: Evans, Wright, Crean,
and
Forde in one team; Bowers, Oates, Cherry-Garrard, and Atkinson
in the
other. It was very sporting of Wright to join in after only a
day's
rest. He is evidently a splendid puller.
Debenham has become principal cook, and evidently enjoys the
task.
Taylor is full of good spirits and anecdote, an addition to the
party.
Yesterday after a beautifully fine morning we got a strong
northerly
wind which blew till the middle of the night, crowding the young
ice up the Strait. Then the wind suddenly shifted to the south,
and I thought we were in for a blizzard; but this morning the
wind
has gone to the S.E
the stratus cloud formed by the north wind
is
dissipating, and the damp snow deposited in the night is
drifting. It
looks like a fine evening.
Steadily we are increasing the comforts of the hut. The stove
has
been improved out of all recognition; with extra stove-pipes we
get
no back draughts, no smoke inside, whilst the economy of fuel is
much increased.
Insulation inside and out is the subject we are now attacking.
The young ice is going to and fro, but the sea refuses to freeze
over
so far--except in the region of Pram Point, where a bay has
remained
for some four days holding some pieces of Barrier in its grip.
These
pieces have come from the edge of the Barrier and some are
crumbling
already, showing a deep and rapid surface deposit of snow and
therefore
the probability that they are drifted sea ice not more than a
year
or two old, the depth of the drift being due to proximity to an
old
Barrier edge.
I have just taken to pyjama trousers and shall don an extra
shirt--I
have been astonished at the warmth which I have felt throughout
in
light clothing. So far I have had nothing more than a singlet
and
jersey under pyjama jacket and a single pair of drawers under
wind
trousers. A hole in the drawers of ancient date means that one
place
has had no covering but the wind trousers, yet I have never felt
cold
about the body.
In spite of all little activities I am impatient of our wait
here. But
I shall be impatient also in the main hut. It is ill to sit
still
and contemplate the ruin which has assailed our transport. The
scheme of advance must be very different from that which I first
contemplated. The Pole is a very long way off, alas!
Bit by bit I am losing all faith in the dogs--I'm afraid they
will
never go the pace we look for.
Saturday, March 18, A.M
Still blowing and drifting. It seems
as
though there can be no peace at this spot till the sea is
properly
frozen over. It blew very hard from the S.E. yesterday--I could
scarcely walk against the wind. In the night it fell calm; the
moon
shone brightly at midnight. Then the sky became overcast and the
temperature rose to +11. Now the wind is coming in spurts from
the
south--all indications of a blizzard.
With the north wind of Friday the ice must have pressed up on
Hut
Point. A considerable floe of pressed up young ice is grounded
under
the point, and this morning we found a seal on this. Just as the
party
started out to kill it, it slid off into the water--it had
evidently
finished its sleep--but it is encouraging to have had a chance
to
capture a seal so close to the hut.
Monday, March 20
On Saturday night it blew hard from the
south,
thick overhead, low stratus and drift. The sea spray again came
over
the ice foot and flung up almost to the dogs; by Sunday morning
the
wind had veered to the S.E., and all yesterday it blew with
great
violence and temperature down to -11° and -12°.
We were confined to the hut and its immediate environs. Last
night the
wind dropped, and for a few hours this morning we had light airs
only,
the temperature rising to -2°.
The continuous bad weather is very serious for the dogs. We have
strained every nerve to get them comfortable, but the changes of
wind
made it impossible to afford shelter in all directions. Some
five or
six dogs are running loose, but we dare not allow the stronger
animals
such liberty. They suffer much from the cold, but they don't get
worse.
The small white dog which fell into the crevasse on our home
journey
died yesterday. Under the best circumstances I doubt if it could
have
lived, as there had evidently been internal injury and an
external
sore had grown gangrenous. Three other animals are in a poor
way,
but may pull through with luck.
We had a stroke of luck to-day. The young ice pressed up off Hut
Point has remained fast--a small convenient platform jutting out
from the point. We found two seals on it to-day and killed
them--thus
getting a good supply of meat for the dogs and some more blubber
for
our fire. Other seals came up as the first two were being
skinned,
so that one may now hope to keep up all future supplies on this
side
of the ridge.
As I write the wind is blowing up again and looks like returning
to
the south. The only comfort is that these strong cold winds with
no
sun must go far to cool the waters of the Sound.
The continuous bad weather is trying to the spirits, but we are
fairly
comfortable in the hut and only suffer from lack of exercise to
work
off the heavy meals our appetites demand.
Tuesday, March 21
The wind returned to the south at 8 last
night. It gradually increased in force until 2 A.M., when it
was blowing from the S.S.W., force 9 to 10. The sea was breaking
constantly and heavily on the ice foot. The spray carried right
over
the Point--covering all things and raining on the roof of the
hut. Poor
Vince's cross, some 30 feet above the water, was enveloped in
it.
Of course the dogs had a very poor time, and we went and
released
two or three, getting covered in spray during the operation--our
wind
clothes very wet.
This is the third gale from the south since our arrival here.
Any
one of these would have rendered the Bay impossible for a ship,
and
therefore it is extraordinary that we should have entirely
escaped
such a blow when the Discovery was in it in 1902.
The effects of this gale are evident and show that it is a most
unusual
occurrence. The rippled snow surface of the ice foot is furrowed
in
all directions and covered with briny deposit--a condition we
have
never seen before. The ice foot at the S.W. corner of the bay is
broken down, bare rock appearing for the first time.
The sledges, magnetic huts, and in fact every exposed object on
the
Point are thickly covered with brine. Our seal floe has gone, so
it
is good-bye to seals on this side for some time.
The dogs are the main sufferers by this continuance of
phenomenally
terrible weather. At least four are in a bad state; some six or
seven
others are by no means fit and well, but oddly enough some ten
or a
dozen animals are as fit as they can be. Whether
constitutionally
harder or whether better fitted by nature or chance to protect
themselves it is impossible to say--Osman, Czigane, Krisravitsa,
Hohol, and some others are in first-rate condition, whilst Lappa
is
better than he has ever been before.
It is so impossible to keep the dogs comfortable in the traces
and
so laborious to be continually attempting it, that we have
decided
to let the majority run loose. It will be wonderful if we can
avoid
one or two murders, but on the other hand probably more would
die if
we kept them in leash.
We shall try and keep the quarrelsome dogs chained up.
The main trouble that seems to come on the poor wretches is the
icing
up of their hindquarters; once the ice gets thoroughly into the
coat
the hind legs get half paralysed with cold. The hope is that the
animals will free themselves of this by running about.
Well, well, fortune is not being very kind to us. This month
will have
sad memories. Still I suppose things might be worse; the ponies
are
well housed and are doing exceedingly well, though we have
slightly
increased their food allowance.
Yesterday afternoon we climbed Observation Hill to see some
examples of
spheroidal weathering--Wilson knew of them and guided. The
geologists
state that they indicate a columnar structure, the tops of the
columns
being weathered out.
The specimens we saw were very perfect. Had some interesting
instruction in geology in the evening. I should not regret a
stay
here with our two geologists if only the weather would allow us
to
get about.
This morning the wind moderated and went to the S.E.; the sea
naturally fell quickly. The temperature this morning was + 17°;
minimum +11°. But now the wind is increasing from the S.E. and
it is
momentarily getting colder.
Thursday, March 23, A.M
No signs of depot party, which
to-night
will have been a week absent. On Tuesday afternoon we went up to
the Big Boulder above Ski slope. The geologists were interested,
and we others learnt something of olivines, green in crystal
form
or oxidized to bright red, granites or granulites or quartzites,
hornblende and feldspars, ferrous and ferric oxides of lava
acid,
basic, plutonic, igneous, eruptive--schists, basalts &c. All
such
things I must get clearer in my mind. [19]
Tuesday afternoon a cold S.E. wind commenced and blew all night.
Yesterday morning it was calm and I went up Crater Hill. The sea
of stratus cloud hung curtain-like over the Strait--blue sky
east
and south of it and the Western Mountains bathed in sunshine,
sharp,
clear, distinct, a glorious glimpse of grandeur on which the
curtain
gradually descended. In the morning it looked as though great
pieces
of Barrier were drifting out. From the hill one found these to
be
but small fragments which the late gale had dislodged, leaving
in
places a blue wall very easily distinguished from the general
white
of the older fractures. The old floe and a good extent of new
ice
had remained fast in Pram Point Bay. Great numbers of seals up
as
usual. The temperature was up to +20° at noon. In the afternoon
a very
chill wind from the east, temperature rapidly dropping till zero
in
the evening. The Strait obstinately refuses to freeze.
We are scoring another success in the manufacture of blubber
lamps,
which relieves anxiety as to lighting as the hours of darkness
increase.
The young ice in Pram Point Bay is already being pressed up.
Friday, March 24, A.M
Skuas still about, a few--very
shy--very
dark in colour after moulting.
Went along Arrival Heights yesterday with very keen over-ridge
wind--it
was difficult to get shelter. In the evening it fell calm and
has
remained all night with temperature up to + 18°. This morning it
is
snowing with fairly large flakes.
Yesterday for the first time saw the ice foot on the south side
of the
bay, a wall some 5 or 6 ft. above water and 12 or 14 ft. below;
the
sea bottom quite clear with the white wall resting on it. This
must
be typical of the ice foot all along the coast, and the wasting
of
caves at sea level alone gives the idea of an overhanging mass.
Very
curious and interesting erosion of surface of the ice foot by
waves
during recent gale.
The depot party returned yesterday morning. They had thick
weather
on the outward march and missed the track, finally doing 30
miles
between Safety Camp and Corner Camp. They had a hard blow up to
force
8 on the night of our gale. Started N.W. and strongest S.S.E.
The sea wants to freeze--a thin coating of ice formed directly
the
wind dropped; but the high temperature does not tend to thicken
it
rapidly and the tide makes many an open lead. We have been
counting
our resources and arranging for another twenty days' stay.
Saturday, March 25, A.M
We have had two days of surprisingly
warm weather, the sky overcast, snow falling, wind only in light
airs. Last night the sky was clearing, with a southerly wind,
and this
morning the sea was open all about us. It is disappointing to
find
the ice so reluctant to hold; at the same time one supposes that
the
cooling of the water is proceeding and therefore that each day
makes
it easier for the ice to form--the sun seems to have lost all
power,
but I imagine its rays still tend to warm the surface water
about the
noon hours. It is only a week now to the date which I thought
would
see us all at Cape Evans.
The warmth of the air has produced a comparatively uncomfortable
state
of affairs in the hut. The ice on the inner roof is melting
fast,
dripping on the floor and streaming down the sides. The
increasing
cold is checking the evil even as I write. Comfort could only be
ensured in the hut either by making a clean sweep of all the
ceiling
ice or by keeping the interior at a critical temperature little
above freezing-point.
Sunday, March 26, P.M
Yesterday morning went along Arrival
Heights
in very cold wind. Afternoon to east side Observation Hill. As
afternoon advanced, wind fell. Glorious evening--absolutely
calm,
smoke ascending straight. Sea frozen over--looked very much like
final freezing, but in night wind came from S.E., producing open
water all along shore. Wind continued this morning with drift,
slackened in afternoon; walked over Gap and back by Crater
Heights
to Arrival Heights.
Sea east of Cape Armitage pretty well covered with ice; some
open
pools--sea off shore west of the Cape frozen in pools, open
lanes
close to shore as far as Castle Rock. Bays either side of
Glacier
Tongue look fairly well frozen. Hut still dropping water
badly.
Held service in hut this morning, read Litany. One skua seen
to-day.
Monday, March 27, P.M
Strong easterly wind on ridge to-day
rushing
down over slopes on western side.
Ice holding south from about Hut Point, but cleared 1/2 to 3/4
mile from shore to northward. Cleared in patches also, I am
told,
on both sides of Glacier Tongue, which is annoying. A regular
local
wind. The Barrier edge can be seen clearly all along, showing
there
is little or no drift. Have been out over the Gap for walk. Glad
to
say majority of people seem anxious to get exercise, but one or
two
like the fire better.
The dogs are getting fitter each day, and all save one or two
have
excellent coats. I was very pleased to find one or two of the
animals
voluntarily accompanying us on our walk. It is good to see them
trotting against a strong drift.
Tuesday, March 28
Slowly but surely the sea is freezing
over. The
ice holds and thickens south of Hut Point in spite of strong
easterly
wind and in spite of isolated water holes which obstinately
remain
open. It is difficult to account for these--one wonders if the
air
currents shoot downward on such places; but even so it is
strange
that they do not gradually diminish in extent. A great deal of
ice
seems to have remained in and about the northern islets, but it
is
too far to be sure that there is a continuous sheet.
We are building stabling to accommodate four more ponies under
the
eastern verandah. When this is complete we shall be able to
shelter
seven animals, and this should be enough for winter and spring
operations.
Thursday, March 30
The ice holds south of Hut Point, though
not
thickening rapidly--yesterday was calm and the same ice
conditions
seemed to obtain on both sides of the Glacier Tongue. It looks
as
though the last part of the road to become safe will be the
stretch
from Hut Point to Turtleback Island. Here the sea seems
disinclined
to freeze even in calm weather. To-day there is more strong wind
from
the east. White horse all along under the ridge.
The period of our stay here seems to promise to lengthen. It is
trying--trying--but we can live, which is something. I should
not
be greatly surprised if we had to wait till May. Several skuas
were
about the camp yesterday. I have seen none to-day.
Two rorquals were rising close to Hut Point this
morning--although
the ice is nowhere thick it was strange to see them making for
the
open leads and thin places to blow.
Friday, March 31
I studied the wind blowing along the ridge
yesterday and came to the conclusion that a comparatively thin
shaft of
air was moving along the ridge from Erebus. On either side of
the ridge
it seemed to pour down from the ridge itself--there was
practically
no wind on the sea ice off Pram Point, and to the westward of
Hut
Point the frost smoke was drifting to the N.W. The temperature
ranges
about zero. It seems to be almost certain that the perpetual
wind is
due to the open winter. Meanwhile the sea refuses to freeze
over.
Wright pointed out the very critical point which zero
temperature
represents in the freezing of salt water, being the freezing
temperature of concentrated brine--a very few degrees above or
below
zero would make all the difference to the rate of increase of
the
ice thickness.
Yesterday the ice was 8 inches in places east of Cape Armitage
and 6
inches in our Bay: it was said to be fast to the south of the
Glacier
Tongue well beyond Turtleback Island and to the north out of the
Islands, except for a strip of water immediately north of the
Tongue.
We are good for another week in pretty well every commodity and
shall
then have to reduce luxuries. But we have plenty of seal meat,
blubber
and biscuit, and can therefore remain for a much longer period
if needs
be. Meanwhile the days are growing shorter and the weather
colder.
Saturday, April 1
The wind yesterday was blowing across the
Ridge
from the top down on the sea to the west: very little wind on
the
eastern slopes and practically none at Pram Point. A seal came
up
in our Bay and was killed. Taylor found a number of fish frozen
into
the sea ice--he says there are several in a small area.
The pressure ridges in Pram Point Bay are estimated by Wright to
have set up about 3 feet. This ice has been 'in' about ten days.
It
is now safe to work pretty well anywhere south of Hut Point.
Went to Third Crater (next Castle Rock) yesterday. The ice seems
to
be holding in the near Bay from a point near Hulton Rocks to
Glacier;
also in the whole of the North Bay except for a tongue of open
water
immediately north of the Glacier.
The wind is the same to-day as yesterday, and the open water
apparently
not reduced by a square yard. I'm feeling impatient.
Sunday, April 2, A.M
Went round Cape Armitage to Pram Point
on
sea ice for first time yesterday afternoon. Ice solid
everywhere,
except off the Cape, where there are numerous open pools. Can
only
imagine layers of comparatively warm water brought to the
surface
by shallows. The ice between the pools is fairly shallow. One
Emperor killed off the Cape. Several skuas seen--three seals up
in
our Bay--several off Pram Point in the shelter of Horse Shoe
Bay. A
great many fish on sea ice--mostly small, but a second species 5
or
6 inches long: imagine they are chased by seals and caught in
brashy
ice where they are unable to escape. Came back over hill:
glorious
sunset, brilliant crimson clouds in west.
Returned to find wind dropping, the first time for three days.
It
turned to north in the evening. Splendid aurora in the night; a
bright
band of light from S.S.W. to E.N.E. passing within 10° of the
zenith
with two waving spirals at the summit. This morning sea to north
covered with ice. Min. temp, for night -5°, but I think most of
the
ice was brought in by the wind. Things look more hopeful. Ice
now
continuous to Cape Evans, but very thin as far as Glacier
Tongue;
three or four days of calm or light winds should make everything
firm.
Wednesday, April 5, A.M
The east wind has continued with a
short
break on Sunday for five days, increasing in violence and
gradually
becoming colder and more charged with snow until yesterday, when
we
had a thick overcast day with falling and driving snow and
temperature
down to -11°.
Went beyond Castle Rock on Sunday and Monday mornings with
Griffith
Taylor.
Think the wind fairly local and that the Strait has frozen over
to
the north, as streams of drift snow and ice crystals (off the
cliffs)
were building up the ice sheet towards the wind. Monday we could
see
the approaching white sheet--yesterday it was visibly closer to
land,
though the wind had not decreased. Walking was little pleasure
on
either day: yesterday climbed about hills to see all possible.
No one
else left the hut. In the evening the wind fell and freezing
continued
during night (min
17°). This morning there is ice everywhere.
I
cannot help thinking it has come to stay. In Arrival Bay it is 6
to 7 inches thick, but the new pools beyond have only I inch of
the
regular elastic sludgy new ice. The sky cleared last night, and
this
morning we have sunshine for the first time for many days. If
this
weather holds for a day we shall be all right. We are getting
towards
the end of our luxuries, so that it is quite time we made a
move--we
are very near the end of the sugar.
The skuas seem to have gone, the last was seen on Sunday. These
birds
were very shy towards the end of their stay, also very dark in
plumage;
they did not seem hungry, and yet it must have been difficult
for
them to get food.
The seals are coming up in our Bay--five last night. Luckily the
dogs have not yet discovered them or the fact that the sea ice
will
bear them.
Had an interesting talk with Taylor on agglomerate and basaltic
dykes
of Castle Rock. The perfection of the small cone craters below
Castle
Rock seem to support the theory we have come to, that there have
been
volcanic disturbances since the recession of the greater ice
sheet.
It is a great thing having Wright to fog out the ice problems,
and he has had a good opportunity of observing many interesting
things here. He is keeping notes of ice changes and a keen eye
on
ice phenomena; we have many discussions.
Yesterday Wilson prepared a fry of seal meat with penguin
blubber. It
had a flavour like cod-liver oil and was not much
appreciated--some
ate their share, and I think all would have done so if we had
had
sledging appetites--shades of Discovery days!! 16
This Emperor weighed anything from 88 to 96 lbs., and therefore
approximated to or exceeded the record.
The dogs are doing pretty well with one or two exceptions. Deek
is
the worst, but I begin to think all will pull through.
Thursday, April 6, A.M
The weather continued fine and clear
yesterday--one of the very few fine days we have had since our
arrival
at the hut.
The sun shone continuously from early morning till it set behind
the
northern hills about 5 P.M. The sea froze completely, but with
only
a thin sheet to the north. A fairly strong northerly wind sprang
up,
causing this thin ice to override and to leave several open
leads
near the land. In the forenoon I went to the edge of the new ice
with Wright. It looked at the limit of safety and we did not
venture
far. The over-riding is interesting: the edge of one sheet
splits as
it rises and slides over the other sheet in long tongues which
creep
onward impressively. Whilst motion lasts there is continuous
music,
a medley of high pitched but tuneful notes--one might imagine
small
birds chirping in a wood. The ice sings, we say.
P.M
In the afternoon went nearly two miles to the north over
the
young ice; found it about 3 1/2 inches thick. At supper arranged
programme for shift to Cape Evans--men to go on Saturday--dogs
Sunday--ponies Monday--all subject to maintenance of good
weather
of course.
Friday, April 7
Went north over ice with Atkinson, Bowers,
Taylor,
Cherry-Garrard; found the thickness nearly 5 inches everywhere
except
in open water leads, which remain open in many places. As we got
away
from the land we got on an interesting surface of small
pancakes,
much capped and pressed up, a sort of mosaic. This is the ice
which
was built up from lee side of the Strait, spreading across to
windward
against the strong winds of Monday and Tuesday.
Another point of interest was the manner in which the overriding
ice
sheets had scraped the under floes.
Taylor fell in when rather foolishly trying to cross a thinly
covered
lead--he had a very scared face for a moment or two whilst we
hurried
to the rescue, but hauled himself out with his ice axe without
our
help and walked back with Cherry.
The remainder of us went on till abreast of the sulphur cones
under
Castle Rock, when we made for the shore, and with a little
mutual
help climbed the cliff and returned by land.
As far as one can see all should be well for our return
to-morrow,
but the sky is clouding to-night and a change of weather seems
imminent. Three successive fine days seem near the limit in this
region.
We have picked up quite a number of fish frozen in the ice--the
larger
ones about the size of a herring and the smaller of a minnow. We
imagined both had been driven into the slushy ice by seals, but
to-day Gran found a large fish frozen in the act of swallowing a
small one. It looks as though both small and large are caught
when
one is chasing the other.
We have achieved such great comfort here that one is half sorry
to
leave--it is a fine healthy existence with many hours spent in
the
open and generally some interesting object for our walks abroad.
The
hill climbing gives excellent exercise--we shall miss much of it
at
Cape Evans. But I am anxious to get back and see that all is
well at
the latter, as for a long time I have been wondering how our
beach
has withstood the shocks of northerly winds. The thought that
the hut
may have been damaged by the sea in one of the heavy storms will
not
be banished.
A Sketch of the Life at Hut Point
We gather around the fire seated on packing-cases to receive
them
with a hunk of butter and a steaming pannikin of tea, and life
is well
worth living. After lunch we are out and about again; there is
little
to tempt a long stay indoors and exercise keeps us all the
fitter.
The falling light and approach of supper drives us home again
with
good appetites about 5 or 6 o'clock, and then the cooks rival
one
another in preparing succulent dishes of fried seal liver. A
single
dish may not seem to offer much opportunity of variation, but a
lot
can be done with a little flour, a handful of raisins, a
spoonful of
curry powder, or the addition of a little boiled pea meal. Be
this as
it may, we never tire of our dish and exclamations of
satisfaction
can be heard every night--or nearly every night, for two nights
ago
[April 4] Wilson, who has proved a genius in the invention of
'plats,'
almost ruined his reputation. He proposed to fry the seal liver
in penguin blubber, suggesting that the latter could be freed
from
all rankness. The blubber was obtained and rendered down with
great
care, the result appeared as delightfully pure fat free from
smell;
but appearances were deceptive; the 'fry' proved redolent of
penguin,
a concentrated essence of that peculiar flavour which faintly
lingers
in the meat and should not be emphasised. Three heroes got
through
their pannikins, but the rest of us decided to be contented with
cocoa and biscuit after tasting the first mouthful. After supper
we
have an hour or so of smoking and conversation--a cheering,
pleasant
hour--in which reminiscences are exchanged by a company which
has
very literally had world-wide experience. There is scarce a
country
under the sun which one or another of us has not travelled in,
so
diverse are our origins and occupations. An hour or so after
supper
we tail off one by one, spread out our sleeping-bags, take off
our
shoes and creep into comfort, for our reindeer bags are really
warm
and comfortable now that they have had a chance of drying, and
the
hut retains some of the heat generated in it. Thanks to the
success
of the blubber lamps and to a fair supply of candles, we can
muster
ample light to read for another hour or two, and so tucked up in
our
furs we study the social and political questions of the past
decade.
We muster no less than sixteen. Seven of us pretty well cover
the floor
of one wing of the L-shaped enclosure, four sleep in the other
wing,
which also holds the store, whilst the remaining five occupy the
annexe
and affect to find the colder temperature more salubrious.
Everyone
can manage eight or nine hours' sleep without a break, and not a
few
would have little difficulty in sleeping the clock round, which
goes
to show that our extremely simple life is an exceedingly healthy
one,
though with faces and hands blackened with smoke, appearances
might
not lead an outsider to suppose it.
Sunday, April 9, A.M
On Friday night it grew overcast and
the
wind went to the south. During the whole of yesterday and last
night it blew a moderate blizzard--the temperature at highest
+5°,
a relatively small amount of drift. On Friday night the ice in
the
Strait went out from a line meeting the shore 3/4 mile north of
Hut
Point. A crack off Hut Point and curving to N.W. opened to about
15
or 20 feet, the opening continuing on the north side of the
Point. It
is strange that the ice thus opened should have remained.
Ice cleared out to the north directly wind commenced--it didn't
wait
a single instant, showing that our journey over it earlier in
the day
was a very risky proceeding--the uncertainty of these conditions
is
beyond words, but there shall be no more of this foolish
venturing
on young ice. This decision seems to put off the return of the
ponies
to a comparatively late date.
Yesterday went to the second crater, Arrival Heights, hoping to
see
the condition of the northerly bays, but could see little or
nothing
owing to drift. A white line dimly seen on the horizon seemed to
indicate that the ice drifted out has not gone far.
Some skuas were seen yesterday, a very late date. The seals
disinclined
to come on the ice; one can be seen at Cape Armitage this
morning,
but it is two or three days since there was one up in our Bay.
It
will certainly be some time before the ponies can be got back.
Monday, April 10, P.M
Intended to make for Cape Evans this
morning. Called hands early, but when we were ready for
departure after
breakfast, the sky became more overcast and snow began to fall.
It
continued off and on all day, only clearing as the sun set. It
would
have been the worst condition possible for our attempt, as we
could
not have been more than 100 yards.
Conditions look very unfavourable for the continued freezing of
the Strait.
Thursday, April 13
Started from Hut Point 9 A.M. Tuesday.
Party
consisted of self, Bowers, P.O. Evans, Taylor, one tent; Evans,
Gran, Crean, Debenham, and Wright, second tent. Left Wilson in
charge at Hut Point with Meares, Forde, Keohane, Oates,
Atkinson, and
Cherry-Garrard. All gave us a pull up the ski slope; it had
become a
point of honour to take this slope without a 'breather.' I find
such
an effort trying in the early morning, but had to go through
with it.
Weather fine; we marched past Castle Rock, east of it; the snow
was soft on the slopes, showing the shelter afforded--continued
to
traverse the ridge for the first time--found quite good surface
much
wind swept--passed both cones on the ridge on the west side.
Caught a
glimpse of fast ice in the Bays either side of Glacier as
expected,
but in the near Bay its extent was very small. Evidently we
should
have to go well along the ridge before descending, and then the
problem would be how to get down over the cliffs. On to Hulton
Rocks
7 1/2 miles from the start--here it was very icy and wind swept,
inhospitable--the wind got up and light became bad just at the
critical
moment, so we camped and had some tea at 2 P.M. A clearance half
an
hour later allowed us to see a possible descent to the ice
cliffs,
but between Hulton Rocks and Erebus all the slope was much
cracked
and crevassed. We chose a clear track to the edge of the cliffs,
but could find no low place in these, the lowest part being 24
feet
sheer drop. Arriving here the wind increased, the snow drifting
off
the ridge--we had to decide quickly; I got myself to the edge
and
made standing places to work the rope; dug away at the cornice,
well
situated for such work in harness. Got three people lowered by
the
Alpine rope--Evans, Bowers, and Taylor--then sent down the
sledges,
which went down in fine style, fully packed--then the remainder
of the
party. For the last three, drove a stake hard down in the snow
and
used the rope round it, the men being lowered by people
below--came
down last myself. Quite a neat and speedy bit of work and all
done
in 20 minutes without serious frostbite--quite pleased with the
result.
We found pulling to Glacier Tongue very heavy over the surface
of
ice covered with salt crystals, and reached Glacier Tongue about
5.30; found a low place and got the sledges up the 6 ft. wall
pretty
easily. Stiff incline, but easy pulling on hard surface--the
light
was failing and the surface criss-crossed with innumerable
cracks;
several of us fell in these with risk of strain, but the north
side
was well snow-covered and easy, with a good valley leading to a
low
ice cliff--here a broken piece afforded easy descent. I decided
to
push on for Cape Evans, so camped for tea at 6. At 6.30 found
darkness
suddenly arrived; it was very difficult to see anything--we got
down
on the sea ice, very heavy pulling, but plodded on for some
hours; at
10 arrived close under little Razor Back Island, and not being
able
to see anything ahead, decided to camp and got to sleep at 11.30
in
no very comfortable circumstances.
The wind commenced to rise during night. We found a roaring
blizzard
in the morning. We had many alarms for the safety of the ice on
which the camp was pitched. Bowers and Taylor climbed the
island;
reported wind terrific on the summit--sweeping on either side
but
comparatively calm immediately to windward and to leeward.
Waited
all day in hopes of a lull; at 3 I went round the island myself
with
Bowers, and found a little ice platform close under the weather
side; resolved to shift camp here. It took two very cold hours,
but we gained great shelter, the cliffs rising almost sheer from
the
tents. Only now and again a whirling wind current eddied down on
the
tents, which were well secured, but the noise of the wind
sweeping
over the rocky ridge above our heads was deafening; we could
scarcely
hear ourselves speak. Settled down for our second night with
little
comfort, and slept better, knowing we could not be swept out to
sea,
but provisions were left only for one more meal.
During the night the wind moderated and we could just see
outline
of land.
I roused the party at 7 A.M. and we were soon under weigh, with
a
desperately cold and stiff breeze and frozen clothes; it was
very
heavy pulling, but the distance only two miles. Arrived off the
point
about ten and found sea ice continued around it. It was a very
great
relief to see the hut on rounding it and to hear that all was
well.
Another pony, Hackenschmidt, and one dog reported dead, but this
certainly is not worse than expected. All the other animals are
in
good form.
Delighted with everything I see in the hut. Simpson has done
wonders,
but indeed so has everyone else, and I must leave description to
a
future occasion.
Friday, April 14
Good Friday. Peaceful day. Wind continuing
20
to 30 miles per hour.
Had divine service.
Saturday, April 15
Weather continuing thoroughly bad. Wind
blowing from 30 to 40 miles an hour all day; drift bad, and
to-night
snow falling. I am waiting to get back to Hut Point with relief
stores. To-night sent up signal light to inform them there of
our
safe arrival--an answering flare was shown.
Sunday, April 16
Same wind as yesterday up to 6 o'clock,
when it
fell calm with gusts from the north.
Have exercised the ponies to-day and got my first good look at
them. I
scarcely like to express the mixed feelings with which I am able
to
regard this remnant.
Freezing of Bays. Cape Evans
March 15
General young ice formed.
March 19
Bay cleared except strip inside Inaccessible and
Razor Back Islands to Corner Turk's Head.
March 20
Everything cleared.
March 25
Sea froze over inside Islands for good.
March 28
Sea frozen as far as seen.
March 30
Remaining only inside Islands.
April 1
Limit Cape to Island.
April 6
Present limit freezing in Strait and in North Bay.
April 9
Strait cleared except former limit and some ice in
North Bay likely to remain.
CHAPTER
VIII - HOME IMPRESSIONS AND AN EXCURSION