Chapter 10 - IN WINTER QUARTERS: MODERN STYLE
Scott's Last Expedition
- The Journals of Captain R. F. Scott
Contents
and Preface Chapters:
Chapter 1
| Chapter
2 | Chapter
3 | Chapter
4 | Chapter
5 | Chapter
6 | Chapter
7 | Chapter
8 | Chapter
9 | Chapter
10 |
Chapter 11 |
Chapter 12
| Chapter
13 |
Chapter 14 |
Chapter 15
| Chapter
16 |
Chapter 17 |
Chapter 18
| Chapter
19 |
Chapter 20
| Appendix
Summary
(2 pages) of the Terra
Nova Expedition |
The Men of
the Expedition
Monday, May 15
The wind has been strong
from the north all day--about 30 miles an hour. A bank of stratus
cloud about 6000 or 7000 feet (measured by Erebus) has been
passing rapidly overhead towards the north; it is nothing new
to find the overlying layers of air moving in opposite directions,
but it is strange that the phenomenon is so persistent. Simpson
has frequently remarked as a great feature of weather conditions
here the seeming reluctance of the air to 'mix'--the fact seems
to be the explanation of many curious fluctuations of temperature.
Went for a short walk, but it was not pleasant. Wilson gave
an interesting lecture on penguins. He explained the primitive
characteristics in the arrangement of feathers on wings and
body, the absence of primaries and secondaries or bare tracts;
the modification of the muscles of the wings and in the structure
of the feet (the metatarsal joint). He pointed out (and the
subsequent discussion seemed to support him) that these birds
probably branched at a very early stage of bird life--coming
pretty directly from the lizard bird Archaeopteryx of the Jurassic
age. Fossils of giant penguins of Eocene and Miocene ages show
that there has been extremely little development since.
He passed on to the classification and habitat of different
genera, nest-making habits, eggs, &c. Then to a brief account
of the habits of the Emperors and Adelies, which was of course
less novel ground for the old hands.
Of special points
of interest I recall his explanation of the desirability of
embryonic study of the Emperor to throw further light on the
development of the species in the loss of teeth, &c.; and
Ponting's contribution and observation of adult Adelies teaching
their young to swim--this point has been obscure. It has been
said that the old birds push the young into the water, and,
per contra, that they leave them deserted in the rookery--both
statements seemed unlikely. It would not be strange if the young
Adelie had to learn to swim (it is a well-known requirement
of the Northern fur seal--sea bear), but it will be interesting
to see in how far the adult birds lay themselves out to instruct
their progeny.
During our trip to the ice and sledge
journey one of our dogs, Vaida, was especially distinguished
for his savage temper and generally uncouth manners. He became
a bad wreck with his poor coat at Hut Point, and in this condition
I used to massage him; at first the operation was mistrusted
and only continued to the accompaniment of much growling, but
later he evidently grew to like the warming effect and sidled
up to me whenever I came out of the hut, though still with some
suspicion. On returning here he seemed to know me at once, and
now comes and buries his head in my legs whenever I go out of
doors; he allows me to rub him and push him about without the
slightest protest and scampers about me as I walk abroad. He
is a strange beast--I imagine so unused to kindness that it
took him time to appreciate it.
Tuesday, May
16
The north wind continued all night but dropped
this forenoon. Conveniently it became calm at noon and we had
a capital game of football. The light is good enough, but not
much more than good enough, for this game.
Had some instruction
from Wright this morning on the electrical instruments.
Later went into our carbide expenditure with Day: am glad
to find it sufficient for two years, but am not making this
generally known as there are few things in which economy is
less studied than light if regulations allow of waste.
Electrical Instruments
For measuring the ordinary
potential gradient we have two self-recording quadrant electrometers.
The principle of this instrument is the same as that of the
old Kelvin instrument; the clockwork attached to it unrolls
a strip of paper wound on a roller; at intervals the needle
of the instrument is depressed by an electromagnet and makes
a dot on the moving paper. The relative position of these dots
forms the record. One of our instruments is adjusted to give
only 1/10th the refinement of measurement of the other by means
of reduction in the length of the quartz fibre. The object of
this is to continue the record in snowstorms, &c., when
the potential difference of air and earth is very great. The
instruments are kept charged with batteries of small Daniels
cells. The clocks are controlled by a master clock.
The
instrument available for radio-activity measurements is a modified
type of the old gold-leaf electroscope. The measurement is made
by the mutual repulsion of quartz fibres acting against a spring--the
extent of the repulsion is very clearly shown against a scale
magnified by a telescope.
The measurements to be made
with instrument are various:
The ionization of the air
. A length of wire charged with 2000 volts (negative) is exposed
to the air for several hours. It is then coiled on a frame and
its rate of discharge measured by the electroscope.
The
radio-activity of the various rocks of our neighbourhood; this
by direct measurement of the rock.
The conductivity of
the air , that is, the relative movement of ions in the air;
by movement of air past charged surface. Rate of absorption
of + and - ions is measured, the negative ion travelling faster
than the positive.
Wednesday, May 17
For the first time this season we have a rise of temperature
with a southerly wind. The wind force has been about 30 since
yesterday evening; the air is fairly full of snow and the temperature
has risen to -6° from -18°.
I heard one of the
dogs barking in the middle of the night, and on inquiry learned
that it was one of the 'Serais,' [22] that he seemed to have
something wrong with his hind leg, and that he had been put
under shelter. This morning the poor brute was found dead.
I'm afraid we can place but little reliance on our dog teams
and reflect ruefully on the misplaced confidence with which
I regarded the provision of our transport. Well, one must suffer
for errors of judgment.
This afternoon Wilson held a
post-mortem on the dog; he could find no sufficient cause of
death. This is the third animal that has died at winter quarters
without apparent cause. Wilson, who is nettled, proposes to
examine the brain of this animal to-morrow.
Went up the
Ramp this morning. There was light enough to see our camp, and
it looked homely, as it does from all sides. Somehow we loom
larger here than at Cape Armitage. We seem to be more significant.
It must be from contrast of size; the larger hills tend to dwarf
the petty human element.
To-night the wind has gone back
to the north and is now blowing fresh.
This sudden and
continued complete change of direction is new to our experience.
Oates has just given us an excellent little lecture on the
management of horses.
He explained his plan of feeding
our animals 'soft' during the winter, and hardening them up
during the spring. He pointed out that the horse's natural food
being grass and hay, he would naturally employ a great number
of hours in the day filling a stomach of small capacity with
food from which he could derive only a small percentage of nutriment.
Hence it is desirable to feed horses often and light. His
present routine is as follows:
Morning Chaff.
Noon, after exercise Snow. Chaff and either oats or oil-cake
alternate days.
Evening, 5 P.M Snow. Hot bran mash with
oil-cake or boiled oats and chaff; finally a small quantity
of hay. This sort of food should be causing the animals to put
on flesh, but is not preparing them for work. In October he
proposes to give 'hard' food, all cold, and to increase the
exercising hours.
As concerning the food we possess he
thinks:
The chaff made of young wheat and hay is doubtful;
there does not seem to be any grain with it--and would farmers
cut young wheat? There does not seem to be any 'fat' in this
food, but it is very well for ordinary winter purposes.
N.B It seems to me this ought to be inquired into. Bran
much discussed, but good because it causes horses to chew the
oats with which mixed.
Oil-cake , greasy, producing energy--excellent
for horses to work on.
Oats , of which we have two qualities,
also very good working food--our white quality much better than
the brown.
Our trainer went on to explain the value of
training horses, of getting them 'balanced' to pull with less
effort. He owns it is very difficult when one is walking horses
only for exercise, but thinks something can be done by walking
them fast and occasionally making them step backwards.
Oates referred to the deeds that had been done with horses
by foreigners in shows and with polo ponies by Englishmen when
the animals were trained; it is, he said, a sort of gymnastic
training.
The discussion was very instructive and I have
only noted the salient points.
Thursday, May
18
The wind dropped in the night; to-day it is calm,
with slight snowfall. We have had an excellent football match--the
only outdoor game possible in this light.
I think our
winter routine very good, I suppose every leader of a party
has thought that, since he has the power of altering it. On
the other hand, routine in this connection must take into consideration
the facilities of work and play afforded by the preliminary
preparations for the expedition. The winter occupations of most
of our party depend on the instruments and implements, the clothing
and sledging outfit, provided by forethought, and the routine
is adapted to these occupations.
The busy winter routine
of our party may therefore be excusably held as a subject for
self-congratulation.
Friday, May 19
Wind from the north in the morning, temperature comparatively
high (about -6°). We played football during the noon hour--the
game gets better as we improve our football condition and skill.
In the afternoon the wind came from the north, dying away
again late at night.
In the evening Wright lectured on
'Ice Problems.' He had a difficult subject and was nervous.
He is young and has never done original work; is only beginning
to see the importance of his task.
He started on the
crystallisation of ice, and explained with very good illustrations
the various forms of crystals, the manner of their growth under
different conditions and different temperatures. This was instructive.
Passing to the freezing of salt water, he was not very clear.
Then on to glaciers and their movements, theories for same and
observations in these regions.
There was a good deal
of disconnected information--silt bands, crevasses were mentioned.
Finally he put the problems of larger aspect.
The upshot
of the discussion was a decision to devote another evening to
the larger problems such as the Great Ice Barrier and the interior
ice sheet. I think I will write the paper to be discussed on
this occasion.
I note with much satisfaction that the
talks on ice problems and the interest shown in them has had
the effect of making Wright devote the whole of his time to
them. That may mean a great deal, for he is a hard and conscientious
worker.
Atkinson has a new hole for his fish trap in
15 fathoms; yesterday morning he got a record catch of forty-three
fish, but oddly enough yesterday evening there were only two
caught.
Saturday, May 20
Blowing
hard from the south, with some snow and very cold. Few of us
went far; Wilson and Bowers went to the top of the Ramp and
found the wind there force 6 to 7, temperature -24°; as
a consequence they got frost-bitten. There was lively cheering
when they reappeared in this condition, such is the sympathy
which is here displayed for affliction; but with Wilson much
of the amusement arises from his peculiarly scant headgear and
the confessed jealousy of those of us who cannot face the weather
with so little face protection.
The wind dropped at night.
Sunday, May 21
Observed as usual. It
blew from the north in the morning. Had an idea to go to Cape
Royds this evening, but it was reported that the open water
reached to the Barne Glacier, and last night my own observation
seemed to confirm this.
This afternoon I started out
for the open water. I found the ice solid off the Barne Glacier
tongue, but always ahead of me a dark horizon as though I was
within a very short distance of its edge. I held on with this
appearance still holding up to C. Barne itself and then past
that Cape and half way between it and C. Royds. This was far
enough to make it evident that the ice was continuous to C.
Royds, and has been so for a long time. Under these circumstances
the continual appearance of open water to the north is most
extraordinary and quite inexplicable.
Have had some very
interesting discussions with Wilson, Wright, and Taylor on the
ice formations to the west. How to account for the marine organisms
found on the weathered glacier ice north of the Koettlitz Glacier?
We have been elaborating a theory under which this ice had once
a negative buoyancy due to the morainic material on top and
in the lower layers of the ice mass, and had subsequently floated
when the greater amount of this material had weathered out.
Have arranged to go to C. Royds to-morrow.
The temperatures
have sunk very steadily this year; for a long time they hung
about zero, then for a considerable interval remained about
-10°; now they are down in the minus twenties, with signs
of falling (to-day -24°).
Bowers' meteorological
stations have been amusingly named Archibald, Bertram, Clarence--they
are entered by the initial letter, but spoken of by full title.
To-night we had a glorious auroral display--quite the most
brilliant I have seen. At one time the sky from N.N.W. to S.S.E.
as high as the zenith was massed with arches, band, and curtains,
always in rapid movement. The waving curtains were especially
fascinating--a wave of bright light would start at one end and
run along to the other, or a patch of brighter light would spread
as if to reinforce the failing light of the curtain.
Auroral Notes
The auroral light is of a palish green
colour, but we now see distinctly a red flush preceding the
motion of any bright part.
The green ghostly light seems
suddenly to spring to life with rosy blushes. There is infinite
suggestion in this phenomenon, and in that lies its charm; the
suggestion of life, form, colour and movement never less than
evanescent, mysterious,--no reality. It is the language of mystic
signs and portents--the inspiration of the gods--wholly spiritual--divine
signalling. Remindful of superstition, provocative of imagination.
Might not the inhabitants of some other world (Mars) controlling
mighty forces thus surround our globe with fiery symbols, a
golden writing which we have not the key to decipher?
There is argument on the confession of Ponting's inability
to obtain photographs of the aurora. Professor Stormer of Norway
seems to have been successful. Simpson made notes of his method,
which seems to depend merely on the rapidity of lens and plate.
Ponting claims to have greater rapidity in both, yet gets no
result even with long exposure. It is not only a question of
aurora; the stars are equally reluctant to show themselves on
Ponting's plate. Even with five seconds exposure the stars become
short lines of light on the plate of a fixed camera. Stormer's
stars are points and therefore his exposure must have been short,
yet there is detail in some of his pictures which it seems impossible
could have been got with a short exposure. It is all very puzzling.
Monday, May 22
Wilson, Bowers, Atkinson,
Evans (P.O.), Clissold, and self went to C. Royds with a 'go
cart' carrying our sleeping-bags, a cooker, and a small quantity
of provision.
The 'go cart' consists of a framework of
steel tubing supported on four bicycle wheels.
The surface
of the floes carries 1 to 2 inches of snow, barely covering
the salt ice flowers, and for this condition this vehicle of
Day's is excellent. The advantage is that it meets the case
where the salt crystals form a heavy frictional surface for
wood runners. I'm inclined to think that there are great numbers
of cases when wheels would be more efficient than runners on
the sea ice.
We reached Cape Royds in 2 1/2 hours, killing
an Emperor penguin in the bay beyond C. Barne. This bird was
in splendid plumage, the breast reflecting the dim northern
light like a mirror.
It was fairly dark when we stumbled
over the rocks and dropped on to Shackleton's Hut. Clissold
started the cooking-range, Wilson and I walked over to the Black
beach and round back by Blue Lake.
The temperature was
down at -31° and the interior of the hut was very cold.
Tuesday, May 23
We spent the morning
mustering the stores within and without the hut, after a cold
night which we passed very comfortably in our bags.
We
found a good quantity of flour and Danish butter and a fair
amount of paraffin, with smaller supplies of assorted articles--the
whole sufficient to afford provision for such a party as ours
for about six or eight months if well administered. In case
of necessity this would undoubtedly be a very useful reserve
to fall back upon. These stores are somewhat scattered, and
the hut has a dilapidated, comfortless appearance due to its
tenantless condition; but even so it seemed to me much less
inviting than our old Discovery hut at C. Armitage.
After
a cup of cocoa there was nothing to detain us, and we started
back, the only useful articles added to our weights being a
scrap or two of leather and five hymn-books . Hitherto we have
been only able to muster seven copies; this increase will improve
our Sunday Services.
Wednesday, May 24
A quiet day with northerly wind; the temperature rose gradually
to zero. Having the night duty, did not go out. The moon has
gone and there is little to attract one out of doors.
Atkinson gave us an interesting little discourse on parasitology,
with a brief account of the life history of some ecto- and some
endo-parasites--Nematodes, Trematodes. He pointed out how that
in nearly every case there was a secondary host, how in some
cases disease was caused, and in others the presence of the
parasite was even helpful. He acknowledged the small progress
that had been made in this study. He mentioned ankylostomiasis,
blood-sucking worms, Bilhartsia (Trematode) attacking bladder
(Egypt), Filaria (round tapeworm), Guinea worm, Trichina (pork),
and others, pointing to disease caused.
From worms he
went to Protozoa-Trypanosomes, sleeping sickness, host tsetse-fly--showed
life history comparatively, propagated in secondary host or
encysting in primary host--similarly malarial germs spread by
Anopheles mosquitoes--all very interesting.
In the discussion
following Wilson gave some account of the grouse disease worm,
and especially of the interest in finding free living species
almost identical; also part of the life of disease worm is free
living. Here we approached a point pressed by Nelson concerning
the degeneration consequent on adoption of the parasitic habit.
All parasites seem to have descended from free living beasts.
One asks 'what is degeneration?' without receiving a very satisfactory
answer. After all, such terms must be empirical.
Thursday, May 25
It has been blowing from
south with heavy gusts and snow, temperature extraordinarily
high, -6°. This has been a heavy gale. The weather conditions
are certainly very interesting; Simpson has again called attention
to the wind in February, March, and April at Cape Evans--the
record shows an extraordinary large percentage of gales. It
is quite certain that we scarcely got a fraction of the wind
on the Barrier and doubtful if we got as much at Hut Point.
Friday, May 26
A calm and clear day--a
nice change from recent weather. It makes an enormous difference
to the enjoyment of this life if one is able to get out and
stretch one's legs every day. This morning I went up the Ramp.
No sign of open water, so that my fears for a broken highway
in the coming season are now at rest. In future gales can only
be a temporary annoyance--anxiety as to their result is finally
allayed.
This afternoon I searched out ski and ski sticks
and went for a short run over the floe. The surface is quite
good since the recent snowfall and wind. This is satisfactory,
as sledging can now be conducted on ordinary lines, and if convenient
our parties can pull on ski. The young ice troubles of April
and May have passed away. It is curious that circumstances caused
us to miss them altogether during our stay in the Discovery.
We are living extraordinarily well. At dinner last night
we had some excellent thick seal soup, very much like thick
hare soup; this was followed by an equally tasty seal steak
and kidney pie and a fruit jelly. The smell of frying greeted
us on awaking this morning, and at breakfast each of us had
two of our nutty little Notothenia fish after our bowl of porridge.
These little fish have an extraordinarily sweet taste--bread
and butter and marmalade finished the meal. At the midday meal
we had bread and butter, cheese, and cake, and to-night I smell
mutton in the preparation. Under the circumstances it would
be difficult to conceive more appetising repasts or a regime
which is likely to produce scorbutic symptoms. I cannot think
we shall get scurvy.
Nelson lectured to us to-night,
giving a very able little elementary sketch of the objects of
the biologist. A fact struck one in his explanation of the rates
of elimination. Two of the offspring of two parents alone survive,
speaking broadly; this the same of the human species or the
'ling,' with 24,000,000 eggs in the roe of each female! He talked
much of evolution, adaptation, &c. Mendelism became the
most debated point of the discussion; the transmission of characters
has a wonderful fascination for the human mind. There was also
a point striking deep in the debate on Professor Loeb's experiments
with sea urchins; how far had he succeeded in reproducing the
species without the male spermatozoa? Not very far, it seemed,
when all was said.
A theme for a pen would be the expansion
of interest in polar affairs; compare the interests of a winter
spent by the old Arctic voyagers with our own, and look into
the causes. The aspect of everything changes as our knowledge
expands.
The expansion of human interest in rude surroundings
may perhaps best be illustrated by comparisons. It will serve
to recall such a simple case as the fact that our ancestors
applied the terms horrid, frightful, to mountain crags which
in our own day are more justly admired as lofty, grand, and
beautiful.
The poetic conception of this natural phenomenon
has followed not so much an inherent change of sentiment as
the intimacy of wider knowledge and the death of superstitious
influence. One is much struck by the importance of realising
limits.
Saturday, May 27
A very unpleasant,
cold, windy day. Annoyed with the conditions, so did not go
out.
In the evening Bowers gave his lecture on sledging
diets. He has shown great courage in undertaking the task, great
perseverance in unearthing facts from books, and a considerable
practical skill in stringing these together. It is a thankless
task to search polar literature for dietary facts and still
more difficult to attach due weight to varying statements. Some
authors omit discussion of this important item altogether, others
fail to note alterations made in practice or additions afforded
by circumstances, others again forget to describe the nature
of various food stuffs.
Our lecturer was both entertaining
and instructive when he dealt with old time rations; but he
naturally grew weak in approaching the physiological aspect
of the question. He went through with it manfully and with a
touch of humour much appreciated; whereas, for instance, he
deduced facts from 'the equivalent of Mr. Joule, a gentleman
whose statements he had no reason to doubt.'
Wilson was
the mainstay of the subsequent discussion and put all doubtful
matters in a clearer light. 'Increase your fats (carbohydrate)'
is what science seems to say, and practice with conservativism
is inclined to step cautiously in response to this urgence.
I shall, of course, go into the whole question as thoroughly
as available information and experience permits. Meanwhile it
is useful to have had a discussion which aired the popular opinions.
Feeling went deepest on the subject of tea versus cocoa;
admitting all that can be said concerning stimulation and reaction,
I am inclined to see much in favour of tea. Why should not one
be mildly stimulated during the marching hours if one can cope
with reaction by profounder rest during the hours of inaction?
Sunday, May 28
Quite an excitement last
night. One of the ponies (the grey which I led last year and
salved from the floe) either fell or tried to lie down in his
stall, his head being lashed up to the stanchions on either
side. In this condition he struggled and kicked till his body
was twisted right round and his attitude extremely uncomfortable.
Very luckily his struggles were heard almost at once, and his
head ropes being cut, Oates got him on his feet again. He looked
a good deal distressed at the time, but is now quite well again
and has been out for his usual exercise.
Held Service
as usual.
This afternoon went on ski around the bay and
back across. Little or no wind; sky clear, temperature -25°.
It was wonderfully mild considering the temperature--this sounds
paradoxical, but the sensation of cold does not conform to the
thermometer--it is obviously dependent on the wind and less
obviously on the humidity of the air and the ice crystals floating
in it. I cannot very clearly account for this effect, but as
a matter of fact I have certainly felt colder in still air at
-10° than I did to-day when the thermometer was down to
-25°, other conditions apparently equal.
The amazing
circumstance is that by no means can we measure the humidity,
or indeed the precipitation or evaporation. I have just been
discussing with Simpson the insuperable difficulties that stand
in the way of experiment in this direction, since cold air can
only hold the smallest quantities of moisture, and saturation
covers an extremely small range of temperature.
Monday, May 29
Another beautiful calm day.
Went out both before and after the mid-day meal. This morning
with Wilson and Bowers towards the thermometer off Inaccessible
Island. On the way my companionable dog was heard barking and
dimly seen--we went towards him and found that he was worrying
a young sea leopard. This is the second found in the Strait
this season. We had to secure it as a specimen, but it was sad
to have to kill. The long lithe body of this seal makes it almost
beautiful in comparison with our stout, bloated Weddells. This
poor beast turned swiftly from side to side as we strove to
stun it with a blow on the nose. As it turned it gaped its jaws
wide, but oddly enough not a sound came forth, not even a hiss.
After lunch a sledge was taken out to secure the prize,
which had been photographed by flashlight.
Ponting has
been making great advances in flashlight work, and has opened
up quite a new field in which artistic results can be obtained
in the winter.
Lecture--Japan. To-night Ponting gave
us a charming lecture on Japan with wonderful illustrations
of his own. He is happiest in his descriptions of the artistic
side of the people, with which he is in fullest sympathy. So
he took us to see the flower pageants. The joyful festivals
of the cherry blossom, the wistaria, the iris and chrysanthemum,
the sombre colours of the beech blossom and the paths about
the lotus gardens, where mankind meditated in solemn mood. We
had pictures, too, of Nikko and its beauties, of Temples and
great Buddhas. Then in more touristy strain of volcanoes and
their craters, waterfalls and river gorges, tiny tree-clad islets,
that feature of Japan--baths and their bathers, Ainos, and so
on. His descriptions were well given and we all of us thoroughly
enjoyed our evening.
Tuesday, May 30
Am busy with my physiological investigations. [23] Atkinson
reported a sea leopard at the tide crack; it proved to be a
crab-eater, young and very active. In curious contrast to the
sea leopard of yesterday in snapping round it uttered considerable
noise, a gasping throaty growl.
Went out to the outer
berg, where there was quite a collection of people, mostly in
connection with Ponting, who had brought camera and flashlight.
It was beautifully calm and comparatively warm. It was good
to hear the gay chatter and laughter, and see ponies and their
leaders come up out of the gloom to add liveliness to the scene.
The sky was extraordinarily clear at noon and to the north very
bright.
We have had an exceptionally large tidal range
during the last three days--it has upset the tide gauge arrangements
and brought a little doubt on the method. Day is going into
the question, which we thoroughly discussed to-day. Tidal measurements
will be worse than useless unless we can be sure of the accuracy
of our methods. Pools of salt water have formed over the beach
floes in consequence of the high tide, and in the chase of the
crab eater to-day very brilliant flashes of phosphorescent light
appeared in these pools. We think it due to a small cope-pod.
I have just found a reference to the same phenomena in Nordenskold's
'Vega.' He, and apparently Bellot before him, noted the phenomenon.
An interesting instance of bi-polarity.
Another interesting
phenomenon observed to-day was a cirrus cloud lit by sunlight.
It was seen by Wilson and Bowers 5° above the northern horizon--the
sun is 9° below our horizon, and without refraction we calculate
a cloud could be seen which was 12 miles high. Allowing refraction
the phenomenon appears very possible.
Wednesday,
May 31
The sky was overcast this morning and the
temperature up to -13°. Went out after lunch to 'Land's
End.' The surface of snow was sticky for ski, except where drifts
were deep. There was an oppressive feel in the air and I got
very hot, coming in with head and hands bare.
At 5, from
dead calm the wind suddenly sprang up from the south, force
40 miles per hour, and since that it has been blowing a blizzard;
wind very gusty, from 20 to 60 miles. I have never known a storm
come on so suddenly, and it shows what possibility there is
of individuals becoming lost even if they only go a short way
from the hut.
To-night Wilson has given us a very interesting
lecture on sketching. He started by explaining his methods of
rough sketch and written colour record, and explained its suitability
to this climate as opposed to coloured chalks, &c a very
practical method for cold fingers and one that becomes more
accurate with practice in observation. His theme then became
the extreme importance of accuracy, his mode of expression and
explanation frankly Ruskinesque. Don't put in meaningless lines--every
line should be from observation. So with contrast of light and
shade--fine shading, subtle distinction, everything--impossible
without care, patience, and trained attention.
He raised
a smile by generalising failures in sketches of others of our
party which had been brought to him for criticism. He pointed
out how much had been put in from preconceived notion. 'He will
draw a berg faithfully as it is now and he studies it, but he
leaves sea and sky to be put in afterwards, as he thinks they
must be like sea and sky everywhere else, and he is content
to try and remember how these should be done.' Nature's harmonies
cannot be guessed at.
He quoted much from Ruskin, leading
on a little deeper to 'Composition,' paying a hearty tribute
to Ponting.
The lecture was delivered in the author's
usual modest strain, but unconsciously it was expressive of
himself and his whole-hearted thoroughness. He stands very high
in the scale of human beings--how high I scarcely knew till
the experience of the past few months.
There is no member
of our party so universally esteemed; only to-night I realise
how patiently and consistently he has given time and attention
to help the efforts of the other sketchers, and so it is all
through; he has had a hand in almost every lecture given, and
has been consulted in almost every effort which has been made
towards the solution of the practical or theoretical problems
of our polar world.
The achievement of a great result
by patient work is the best possible object lesson for struggling
humanity, for the results of genius, however admirable, can
rarely be instructive. The chief of the Scientific Staff sets
an example which is more potent than any other factor in maintaining
that bond of good fellowship which is the marked and beneficent
characteristic of our community.
CHAPTER XI -
TO MIDWINTER DAY