Chapter 8 - HOME IMPRESSIONS AND AN EXCURSION
Scott's Last Expedition
- The Journals of Captain R. F. Scott
Contents
and Preface Chapters:
Chapter 1
| Chapter
2 | Chapter
3 | Chapter
4 | Chapter
5 | Chapter
6 | Chapter
7 | Chapter
8 | Chapter
9 | Chapter
10 |
Chapter 11 |
Chapter 12
| Chapter
13 |
Chapter 14 |
Chapter 15
| Chapter
16 |
Chapter 17 |
Chapter 18
| Chapter
19 |
Chapter 20
| Appendix
Summary
(2 pages) of the Terra
Nova Expedition |
The Men of
the Expedition
Impressions on returning to the Hut, April
13, 1911
In choosing the site of the hut on
our Home Beach I had thought of the possibility of northerly
winds bringing a swell, but had argued, firstly, that no heavy
northerly swell had ever been recorded in the Sound; secondly,
that a strong northerly wind was bound to bring pack which would
damp the swell; thirdly, that the locality was excellently protected
by the Barne Glacier, and finally, that the beach itself showed
no signs of having been swept by the sea, the rock fragments
composing it being completely angular.
When the hut was
erected and I found that its foundation was only 11 feet above
the level of the sea ice, I had a slight misgiving, but reassured
myself again by reconsidering the circumstances that afforded
shelter to the beach.
The fact that such question had
been considered makes it easier to understand the attitude of
mind that readmitted doubt in the face of phenomenal conditions.
The event has justified my original arguments, but I must
confess a sense of having assumed security without sufficient
proof in a case where an error of judgment might have had dire
consequences.
It was not until I found all safe at the
Home Station that I realised how anxious I had been concerning
it. In a normal season no thought of its having been in danger
would have occurred to me, but since the loss of the ponies
and the breaking of the Glacier Tongue I could not rid myself
of the fear that misfortune was in the air and that some abnormal
swell had swept the beach; gloomy thoughts of the havoc that
might have been wrought by such an event would arise in spite
of the sound reasons which had originally led me to choose the
site of the hut as a safe one.
The late freezing of the
sea, the terrible continuance of wind and the abnormalities
to which I have referred had gradually strengthened the profound
distrust with which I had been forced to regard our mysterious
Antarctic climate until my imagination conjured up many forms
of disaster as possibly falling on those from whom I had parted
for so long.
We marched towards Cape Evans under the
usually miserable conditions which attend the breaking of camp
in a cold wind after a heavy blizzard. The outlook was dreary
in the grey light of early morning, our clothes were frozen
stiff and our fingers, wet and cold in the tent, had been frostbitten
in packing the sledges.
A few comforting signs of life
appeared as we approached the Cape; some old footprints in the
snow, a long silk thread from the meteorologist's balloon; but
we saw nothing more as we neared the rocks of the promontory
and the many grounded bergs which were scattered off it.
To my surprise the fast ice extended past the Cape and we
were able to round it into the North Bay. Here we saw the weather
screen on Wind Vane Hill, and a moment later turned a small
headland and brought the hut in full view. It was intact--stables,
outhouses and all; evidently the sea had left it undisturbed.
I breathed a huge sigh of relief. We watched two figures at
work near the stables and wondered when they would see us. In
a moment or two they did so, and fled inside the hut to carry
the news of our arrival. Three minutes later all nine occupants
[20] were streaming over the floe towards us with shouts of
welcome. There were eager inquiries as to mutual welfare and
it took but a minute to learn the most important events of the
quiet station life which had been led since our departure. These
under the circumstances might well be considered the deaths
of one pony and one dog. The pony was that which had been nicknamed
Hackenschmidt from his vicious habit of using both fore and
hind legs in attacking those who came near him. He had been
obviously of different breed from the other ponies, being of
lighter and handsomer shape, suggestive of a strain of Arab
blood. From no cause which could be discovered either by the
symptoms of his illness or the post-mortem held by Nelson could
a reason be found for his death. In spite of the best feeding
and every care he had gradually sickened until he was too weak
to stand, and in this condition there had been no option but
to put him out of misery. Anton considers the death of Hackenschmidt
to have been an act of 'cussedness'--the result of a determination
to do no work for the Expedition!! Although the loss is serious
I remember doubts which I had as to whether this animal could
be anything but a source of trouble to us. He had been most
difficult to handle all through, showing a vicious, intractable
temper. I had foreseen great difficulties with him, especially
during the early part of any journey on which he was taken,
and this consideration softened the news of his death. The dog
had been left behind in a very sick condition, and this loss
was not a great surprise.
These items were the worst
of the small budget of news that awaited me; for the rest, the
hut arrangements had worked out in the most satisfactory manner
possible and the scientific routine of observations was in full
swing. After our primitive life at Cape Armitage it was wonderful
to enter the precincts of our warm, dry Cape Evans home. The
interior space seemed palatial, the light resplendent, and the
comfort luxurious. It was very good to eat in civilised fashion,
to enjoy the first bath for three months, and have contact with
clean, dry clothing. Such fleeting hours of comfort (for custom
soon banished their delight) are the treasured remembrance of
every Polar traveller. They throw into sharpest contrast the
hardships of the past and the comforts of the present, and for
the time he revels in the unaccustomed physical contentment
that results.
I was not many hours or even minutes in
the hut before I was haled round to observe in detail the transformation
which had taken place during my absence, and in which a very
proper pride was taken by those who had wrought it.
Simpson's
Corner was the first visited. Here the eye travelled over numerous
shelves laden with a profusion of self-recording instruments,
electric batteries and switchboards, whilst the ear caught the
ticking of many clocks, the gentle whir of a motor and occasionally
the trembling note of an electric bell. But such sights and
sounds conveyed only an impression of the delicate methodical
means by which the daily and hourly variations of our weather
conditions were being recorded--a mere glimpse of the intricate
arrangements of a first-class meteorological station--the one
and only station of that order which has been established in
Polar regions. It took me days and even months to realise fully
the aims of our meteorologist and the scientific accuracy with
which he was achieving them. When I did so to an adequate extent
I wrote some description of his work which will be found in
the following pages of this volume. [21] The first impression
which I am here describing was more confused; I appreciated
only that by going to 'Simpson's Corner' one could ascertain
at a glance how hard the wind was blowing and had been blowing,
how the barometer was varying, to what degree of cold the thermometer
had descended; if one were still more inquisitive he could further
inform himself as to the electrical tension of the atmosphere
and other matters of like import. That such knowledge could
be gleaned without a visit to the open air was an obvious advantage
to those who were clothing themselves to face it, whilst the
ability to study the variation of a storm without exposure savoured
of no light victory of mind over matter.
The dark room
stands next to the parasitologist's side of the bench which
flanks Sunny Jim's Corner--an involved sentence. To be more
exact, the physicists adjust their instruments and write up
books at a bench which projects at right angles to the end wall
of the hut; the opposite side of this bench is allotted to Atkinson,
who is to write with his back to the dark room. Atkinson being
still absent his corner was unfurnished, and my attention was
next claimed by the occupant of the dark room beyond Atkinson's
limit. The art of photography has never been so well housed
within the Polar regions and rarely without them. Such a palatial
chamber for the development of negatives and prints can only
be justified by the quality of the work produced in it, and
is only justified in our case by the possession of such an artist
as Ponting. He was eager to show me the results of his summer
work, and meanwhile my eye took in the neat shelves with their
array of cameras, &c., the porcelain sink and automatic
water tap, the two acetylene gas burners with their shading
screens, and the general obviousness of all conveniences of
the photographic art. Here, indeed, was encouragement for the
best results, and to the photographer be all praise, for it
is mainly his hand which has executed the designs which his
brain conceived. In this may be clearly seen the advantage of
a traveller's experience. Ponting has had to fend for himself
under primitive conditions in a new land; the result is a 'handy
man' with every form of tool and in any circumstances. Thus,
when building operations were to the fore and mechanical labour
scarce, Ponting returned to the shell of his apartment with
only the raw material for completing it. In the shortest possible
space of time shelves and tanks were erected, doors hung and
windows framed, and all in a workmanlike manner commanding the
admiration of all beholders. It was well that speed could be
commanded for such work, since the fleeting hours of the summer
season had been altogether too few to be spared from the immediate
service of photography. Ponting's nervous temperament allowed
no waste of time--for him fine weather meant no sleep; he decided
that lost opportunities should be as rare as circumstances would
permit.
This attitude was now manifested in the many
yards of cinematograph film remaining on hand and yet greater
number recorded as having been sent back in the ship, in the
boxes of negatives lying on the shelves and a well-filled album
of prints.
Of the many admirable points in this work
perhaps the most notable are Ponting's eye for a picture and
the mastery he has acquired of ice subjects; the composition
of most of his pictures is extraordinarily good, he seems to
know by instinct the exact value of foreground and middle distance
and of the introduction of 'life,' whilst with more technical
skill in the manipulation of screens and exposures he emphasises
the subtle shadows of the snow and reproduces its wondrously
transparent texture. He is an artist in love with his work,
and it was good to hear his enthusiasm for results of the past
and plans of the future.
Long before I could gaze my
fill at the contents of the dark room I was led to the biologists'
cubicle; Nelson and Day had from the first decided to camp together,
each having a habit of methodical neatness; both were greatly
relieved when the arrangement was approved, and they were freed
from the chance of an untidy companion. No attempt had been
made to furnish this cubicle before our departure on the autumn
journey, but now on my return I found it an example of the best
utilisation of space. The prevailing note was neatness; the
biologist's microscope stood on a neat bench surrounded by enamel
dishes, vessels, and books neatly arranged; behind him, when
seated, rose two neat bunks with neat, closely curtained drawers
for clothing and neat reflecting sconces for candles; overhead
was a neat arrangement for drying socks with several nets, neatly
bestowed. The carpentering to produce this effect had been of
quite a high order, and was in very marked contrast with that
exhibited for the hasty erections in other cubicles. The pillars
and boarding of the bunks had carefully finished edges and were
stained to mahogany brown. Nelson's bench is situated very conveniently
under the largest of the hut windows, and had also an acetylene
lamp, so that both in summer and winter he has all conveniences
for his indoor work.
Day appeared to have been unceasingly
busy during my absence. Everyone paid tribute to his mechanical
skill and expressed gratitude for the help he had given in adjusting
instruments and generally helping forward the scientific work.
He was entirely responsible for the heating, lighting, and ventilating
arrangements, and as all these appear satisfactory he deserved
much praise. Particulars concerning these arrangements I shall
give later; as a first impression it is sufficient to note that
the warmth and lighting of the hut seemed as good as could be
desired, whilst for our comfort the air seemed fresh and pure.
Day had also to report some progress with the motor sledges,
but this matter also I leave for future consideration.
My attention was very naturally turned from the heating
arrangements to the cooking stove and its custodian, Clissold.
I had already heard much of the surpassingly satisfactory meals
which his art had produced, and had indeed already a first experience
of them. Now I was introduced to the cook's corner with its
range and ovens, its pots and pans, its side tables and well-covered
shelves. Much was to be gathered therefrom, although a good
meal by no means depends only on kitchen conveniences. It was
gratifying to learn that the stove had proved itself economical
and the patent fuel blocks a most convenient and efficient substitute
for coal. Save for the thickness of the furnace cheeks and the
size of the oven Clissold declared himself wholly satisfied.
He feared that the oven would prove too small to keep up a constant
supply of bread for all hands; nevertheless he introduced me
to this oven with an air of pride which I soon found to be fully
justified. For connected therewith was a contrivance for which
he was entirely responsible, and which in its ingenuity rivalled
any of which the hut could boast. The interior of the oven was
so arranged that the 'rising' of the bread completed an electric
circuit, thereby ringing a bell and switching on a red lamp.
Clissold had realised that the continuous ringing of the bell
would not be soothing to the nerves of our party, nor the continuous
burning of the lamp calculated to prolong its life, and he had
therefore added the clockwork mechanism which automatically
broke the circuit after a short interval of time; further, this
clockwork mechanism could be made to control the emersion of
the same warning signals at intervals of time varied according
to the desire of the operator;--thus because, when in bed, he
would desire a signal at short periods, but if absent from the
hut he would wish to know at a glance what had happened when
he returned. Judged by any standard it was a remarkably pretty
little device, but when I learnt that it had been made from
odds and ends, such as a cog-wheel or spring here and a cell
or magnet there, begged from other departments, I began to realise
that we had a very exceptional cook. Later when I found that
Clissold was called in to consult on the ailments of Simpson's
motor and that he was capable of constructing a dog sledge out
of packing cases, I was less surprised, because I knew by this
time that he had had considerable training in mechanical work
before he turned his attention to pots and pans.
My first
impressions include matters to which I was naturally eager to
give an early half-hour, namely the housing of our animals.
I found herein that praise was as justly due to our Russian
boys as to my fellow Englishmen.
Anton with Lashly's
help had completed the furnishing of the stables. Neat stalls
occupied the whole length of the 'lean to,' the sides so boarded
that sprawling legs could not be entangled beneath and the front
well covered with tin sheet to defeat the 'cribbers.' I could
but sigh again to think of the stalls that must now remain empty,
whilst appreciating that there was ample room for the safe harbourage
of the ten beasts that remain, be the winter never so cold or
the winds so wild.
Later we have been able to give double
space to all but two or three of our animals, in which they
can lie down if they are so inclined.
The ponies look
fairly fit considering the low diet on which they have been
kept; their coats were surprisingly long and woolly in contrast
with those of the animals I had left at Hut Point. At this time
they were being exercised by Lashly, Anton, Demetri, Hooper,
and Clissold, and as a rule were ridden, the sea having only
recently frozen. The exercise ground had lain on the boulder-strewn
sand of the home beach and extending towards the Skua lake;
and across these stretches I soon saw barebacked figures dashing
at speed, and not a few amusing incidents in which horse and
rider parted with abrupt lack of ceremony. I didn't think this
quite the most desirable form of exercise for the beasts, but
decided to leave matters as they were till our pony manager
returned.
Demetri had only five or six dogs left in charge,
but these looked fairly fit, all things considered, and it was
evident the boy was bent on taking every care of them, for he
had not only provided shelters, but had built a small 'lean
to' which would serve as a hospital for any animal whose stomach
or coat needed nursing.
Such were in broad outline the
impressions I received on my first return to our home station;
they were almost wholly pleasant and, as I have shown, in happy
contrast with the fears that had assailed me on the homeward
route. As the days went by I was able to fill in the detail
in equally pleasant fashion, to watch the development of fresh
arrangements and the improvement of old ones. Finally, in this
way I was brought to realise what an extensive and intricate
but eminently satisfactory organisation I had made myself responsible
for.
Notes on Flyleaf of Fresh MS. Book
Genus
Homo, Species Sapiens!
FLOTSAM
Wm. Barents' house
in Novaya Zemlya built 1596. Found by Capt. Carlsen 1871 (275
years later) intact, everything inside as left! What of this
hut?
The ocean girt continent.
'Might have seemed
almost heroic if any higher end than excessive love of gain
and traffic had animated the design.'--MILTON.
'He is
not worthy to live at all, who, for fear and danger of death
shunneth his country's service or his own honour, since death
is inevitable and the fame of virtue immortal.'--SIR HUMPHREY
GILBERT.
There is no part of the world that can not be
reached by man. When the 'can be' is turned to 'has been' the
Geographical Society will have altered its status.
'At
the whirring loom of time unawed I weave the living garment
of God.'--GOETHE.
By all means think yourself big but
don't think everyone else small!
The man who knows everyone's
job isn't much good at his own.
'When you are attacked
unjustly avoid the appearance of evil, but avoid also the appearance
of being too good!' 'A man can't be too good, but he can appear
too good.'
Monday, April 17
Started
from C. Evans with two 10 ft. sledges.
Party 1. Self,
Lashly, Day, Demetri.
,, 2.
Bowers, Nelson, Crean, Hooper.
We left at 8 A.M., taking
our personal equipment, a week's provision of sledging food,
and butter, oatmeal, flour, lard, chocolate, &c., for the
hut.
Two of the ponies hauled the sledges to within a
mile of the Glacier Tongue; the wind, which had been north,
here suddenly shifted to S.E., very biting. (The wind remained
north at C. Evans during the afternoon, the ponies walked back
into it.) Sky overcast, very bad light. Found the place to get
on the glacier, but then lost the track-crossed more or less
direct, getting amongst many cracks. Came down in bay near the
open water--stumbled over the edge to an easy drift. More than
once on these trips I as leader have suddenly disappeared from
the sight of the others, affording some consternation till they
got close enough to see what has happened. The pull over sea
ice was very heavy and in face of strong wind and drift. Every
member of the party was frostbitten about the face, several
with very cold feet. Pushed on after repairs. Found drift streaming
off the ice cliff, a new cornice formed and our rope buried
at both ends. The party getting cold, I decided to camp, have
tea, and shift foot gear. Whilst tea was preparing, Bowers and
I went south, then north, along the cliffs to find a place to
ascend--nearly everywhere ascent seemed impossible in the vicinity
of Hulton Rocks or north, but eventually we found an overhanging
cornice close to our rope.
After lunch we unloaded a
sledge, which, held high on end by four men, just reached the
edge of the cornice. Clambering up over backs and up sledge
I used an ice-axe to cut steps over the cornice and thus managed
to get on top, then cut steps and surmounted the edge of the
cornice. Helped Bowers up with the rope; others followed--then
the gear was hauled up piecemeal. For Crean, the last man up,
we lowered the sledge over the cornice and used a bowline in
the other end of the rope on top of it. He came up grinning
with delight, and we all thought the ascent rather a cunning
piece of work. It was fearfully cold work, but everyone working
with rare intelligence, we eventually got everything up and
repacked the sledge; glad to get in harness again. Then a heavy
pull up a steep slope in wretched light, making detour to left
to avoid crevasses. We reached the top and plodded on past the
craters as nearly as possible as on the outward route. The party
was pretty exhausted and very wet with perspiration. Approaching
Castle Rock the weather and light improved. Camped on Barrier
Slope north of Castle Rock about 9 P.M. Night cold but calm,
-38° during night; slept pretty well.
Tuesday,
April 18
Hut Point. Good moonlight at 7 A.M
had
breakfast. Broke camp very quickly--Lashly splendid at camp
work as of old--very heavy pull up to Castle Rock, sweated much.
This sweating in cold temperature is a serious drawback. Reached
Hut Point 1 P.M. Found all well in excellent spirits--didn't
seem to want us much!!
Party reported very bad weather
since we left, cold blizzard, then continuous S.W. wind with
-20° and below. The open water was right up to Hut Point,
wind absolutely preventing all freezing along shore. Wilson
reported skua gull seen Monday.
Found party much shorter
of blubber than I had expected--they were only just keeping
themselves supplied with a seal killed two days before and one
as we arrived.
Actually less fast ice than when we left!
Wednesday, April 19
Hut Point. Calm
during night, sea froze over at noon, 4 1/2 inches thick off
Hut Point, showing how easily the sea will freeze when the chance
is given.
Three seals reported on the ice; all hands
out after breakfast and the liver and blubber of all three seals
were brought in. This relieves one of a little anxiety, leaving
a twelve days' stock, in which time other seals ought to be
coming up. I am making arrangements to start back to-morrow,
but at present it is overcast and wind coming up from the south.
This afternoon, all ice frozen last night went out quietly;
the sea tried to freeze behind it, but the wind freshened soon.
The ponies were exercised yesterday and to-day; they look pretty
fit, but their coats are not so good as those in winter quarters--they
want fatty foods.
Am preparing to start to-morrow, satisfied
that the Discovery Hut is very comfortable and life very liveable
in it. The dogs are much the same, all looking pretty fit except
Vaida and Rabchick--neither of which seem to get good coats.
I am greatly struck with the advantages of experience in Crean
and Lashly for all work about camps.
Thursday,
April 20
Hut Point. Everything ready for starting
this morning, but of course it 'blizzed.' Weather impossible--much
wind and drift from south. Wind turned to S.E. in afternoon--temperatures
low. Went for walk to Cape Armitage, but it is really very unpleasant.
The wind blowing round the Cape is absolutely blighting, force
7 and temperature below -30°. Sea a black cauldron covered
with dark frost smoke. No ice can form in such weather.
Friday, April 21
Started homeward at
10.30.
Left Meares in charge of station with Demetri
to help with dogs, Lashly and Keohane to look out for ponies,
Nelson and Day and Forde to get some idea of the life and experience.
Homeward party, therefore:
Self
Bowers
Wilson Oates
Atkinson
Cherry-Garrard
Crean
Hooper
As usual all hands pulled up Ski slope, which
we took without a halt. Lashly and Demetri came nearly to Castle
Rock--very cold side wind and some frostbites. We reached the
last downward slope about 2.30; at the cliff edge found the
cornice gone--heavy wind and drift worse than before, if anything.
We bustled things, and after tantalising delays with the rope
got Bowers and some others on the floe, then lowered the sledges
packed; three men, including Crean and myself, slid down last
on the Alpine rope--doubled and taken round an ash stave, so
that we were able to unreeve the end and recover the rope--we
recovered also most of the old Alpine rope, all except a piece
buried in snow on the sea ice and dragged down under the slush,
just like the Discovery boats; I could not have supposed this
could happen in so short a time. 17
By the time all
stores were on the floe, with swirling drift about us, everyone
was really badly cold--one of those moments for quick action.
We harnessed and dashed for the shelter of the cliffs; up tents,
and hot tea as quick as possible; after this and some shift
of foot gear all were much better. Heavy plod over the sea ice,
starting at 4.30--very bad light on the glacier, and we lost
our way as usual, stumbling into many crevasses, but finally
descended in the old place; by this time sweating much. Crean
reported our sledge pulling much more heavily than the other
one. Marched on to Little Razor Back Island without halt, our
own sledge dragging fearfully. Crean said there was great difference
in the sledges, though loads were equal. Bowers politely assented
when I voiced this sentiment, but I'm sure he and his party
thought it the plea of tired men. However there was nothing
like proof, and he readily assented to change sledges. The difference
was really extraordinary; we felt the new sledge a featherweight
compared with the old, and set up a great pace for the home
quarters regardless of how much we perspired. We arrived at
the hut (two miles away) ten minutes ahead of the others, who
by this time were quite convinced as to the difference in the
sledges.
The difference was only marked when pulling
over the salt-covered sea ice; on snow the sledges seemed pretty
much the same. It is due to the grain of the wood in the runners
and is worth looking into.
We all arrived bathed in sweat--our
garments were soaked through, and as we took off our wind clothes
showers of ice fell on the floor. The accumulation was almost
incredible and shows the whole trouble of sledging in cold weather.
It would have been very uncomfortable to have camped in the
open under such conditions, and assuredly a winter and spring
party cannot afford to get so hot if they wish to retain any
semblance of comfort.
Our excellent cook had just the
right meal prepared for us--an enormous dish of rice and figs,
and cocoa in a bucket! The hut party were all very delighted
to see us, and the fittings and comforts of the hut are amazing
to the newcomers.
Saturday, April 22
Cape Evans, Winter Quarters. The sledging season is at an end.
It's good to be back in spite of all the losses we have sustained.
To-day we enjoy a very exceptional calm. The sea is freezing
over of course, but unfortunately our view from Observatory
Hill is very limited. Oates and the rest are exercising the
ponies. I have been sorting my papers and getting ready for
the winter work.
CHAPTER IX - THE
WORK AND THE WORKERS