Chapter 7 - AT DISCOVERY HUT
Scott's Last Expedition
- The Journals of Captain R. F. Scott
Contents
and Preface Chapters:
Chapter 1
| Chapter
2 | Chapter
3 | Chapter
4 | Chapter
5 | Chapter
6 | Chapter
7 | Chapter
8 | Chapter
9 | Chapter
10 |
Chapter 11 |
Chapter 12
| Chapter
13 |
Chapter 14 |
Chapter 15
| Chapter
16 |
Chapter 17 |
Chapter 18
| Chapter
19 |
Chapter 20
| Appendix
Summary
(2 pages) of the Terra
Nova Expedition |
The Men of
the Expedition
Monday, March 6, A.M
Roused the hands
at 7.30. Wilson, Bowers, Garrard, and I went out to Castle Rock.
We met Evans just short of his camp and found the loads had
been dragged up the hill. Oates and Keohane had gone back to
lead on the ponies. At the top of the ridge we harnessed men
and ponies to the sledges and made rapid progress on a good
surface towards the hut. The weather grew very thick towards
the end of the march, with all signs of a blizzard. We unharnessed
the ponies at the top of Ski slope--Wilson guided them down
from rock patch to rock patch; the remainder of us got down
a sledge and necessaries over the slope. It is a ticklish business
to get the sledge along the ice foot, which is now all blue
ice ending in a drop to the sea. One has to be certain that
the party has good foothold. All reached the hut in safety.
The ponies have admirably comfortable quarters under the verandah.
After some cocoa we fetched in the rest of the dogs from
the Gap and another sledge from the hill. It had ceased to snow
and the wind had gone down slightly. Turned in with much relief
to have all hands and the animals safely housed.
Tuesday, March 7, A.M
Yesterday went over
to Pram Point with Wilson. We found that the corner of sea ice
in Pram Point Bay had not gone out--it was crowded with seals.
We killed a young one and carried a good deal of the meat and
some of the blubber back with us.
Meanwhile the remainder
of the party had made some progress towards making the hut more
comfortable. In the afternoon we all set to in earnest and by
supper time had wrought wonders.
We have made a large
L-shaped inner apartment with packing-cases, the intervals stopped
with felt. An empty kerosene tin and some firebricks have been
made into an excellent little stove, which has been connected
to the old stove-pipe. The solider fare of our meals is either
stewed or fried on this stove whilst the tea or cocoa is being
prepared on a primus.
The temperature of the hut is low,
of course, but in every other respect we are absolutely comfortable.
There is an unlimited quantity of biscuit, and our discovery
at Pram Point means an unlimited supply of seal meat. We have
heaps of cocoa, coffee, and tea, and a sufficiency of sugar
and salt. In addition a small store of luxuries, chocolate,
raisins, lentils, oatmeal, sardines, and jams, which will serve
to vary the fare. One way and another we shall manage to be
very comfortable during our stay here, and already we can regard
it as a temporary home.
Thursday, March 9, A.M
Yesterday and to-day very busy about the hut and overcoming
difficulties fast. The stove threatened to exhaust our store
of firewood. We have redesigned it so that it takes only a few
chips of wood to light it and then continues to give great heat
with blubber alone. To-day there are to be further improvements
to regulate the draught and increase the cooking range. We have
further housed in the living quarters with our old Discovery
winter awning, and begin already to retain the heat which is
generated inside. We are beginning to eat blubber and find biscuits
fried in it to be delicious.
We really have everything
necessary for our comfort and only need a little more experience
to make the best of our resources. The weather has been wonderfully,
perhaps ominously, fine during the last few days. The sea has
frozen over and broken up several times already. The warm sun
has given a grand opportunity to dry all gear.
Yesterday
morning Bowers went with a party to pick up the stores rescued
from the floe last week. Evans volunteered to join the party
with Meares, Keohane, Atkinson, and Gran. They started from
the hut about 10 A.M.; we helped them up the hill, and at 7.30
I saw them reach the camp containing the gear, some 12 miles
away. I don't expect them in till to-morrow night.
It
is splendid to see the way in which everyone is learning the
ropes, and the resource which is being shown. Wilson as usual
leads in the making of useful suggestions and in generally providing
for our wants. He is a tower of strength in checking the ill-usage
of clothes--what I have come to regard as the greatest danger
with Englishmen.
Friday, March 10, A.M
Went yesterday to Castle Rock with Wilson to see what chance
there might be of getting to Cape Evans. [17] The day was bright
and it was quite warm walking in the sun. There is no doubt
the route to Cape Evans lies over the worst corner of Erebus.
From this distance the whole mountain side looks a mass of crevasses,
but a route might be found at a level of 3000 or 4000 ft.
The hut is getting warmer and more comfortable. We have
very excellent nights; it is cold only in the early morning.
The outside temperatures range from 8° or so in the day
to 2° at night. To-day there is a strong S.E. wind with
drift. We are going to fetch more blubber for the stove.
Saturday, March 11, A.M.
Went yesterday
morning to Pram Point to fetch in blubber--wind very strong
to Gap but very little on Pram Point side.
In the evening
went half-way to Castle Rock; strong bitter cold wind on summit.
Could not see the sledge party, but after supper they arrived,
having had very hard pulling. They had had no wind at all till
they approached the hut. Their temperatures had fallen to -10°
and -15°, but with bright clear sunshine in the daytime.
They had thoroughly enjoyed their trip and the pulling on ski.
Life in the hut is much improved, but if things go too fast
there will be all too little to think about and give occupation
in the hut.
It is astonishing how the miscellaneous assortment
of articles remaining in and about the hut have been put to
useful purpose.
This deserves description. 15
Monday, March 13, A.M
The weather grew
bad on Saturday night and we had a mild blizzard yesterday.
The wind went to the south and increased in force last night,
and this morning there was quite a heavy sea breaking over the
ice foot. The spray came almost up to the dogs. It reminds us
of the gale in which we drove ashore in the Discovery. We have
had some trouble with our blubber stove and got the hut very
full of smoke on Saturday night. As a result we are all as black
as sweeps and our various garments are covered with oily soot.
We look a fearful gang of ruffians. The blizzard has delayed
our plans and everyone's attention is bent on the stove, the
cooking, and the various internal arrangements. Nothing is done
without a great amount of advice received from all quarters,
and consequently things are pretty well done. The hut has a
pungent odour of blubber and blubber smoke. We have grown accustomed
to it, but imagine that ourselves and our clothes will be given
a wide berth when we return to Cape Evans.
Wednesday,
March 15, A.M
It was blowing continuously from the
south throughout Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday--I never remember
such a persistent southerly wind.
Both Monday and Tuesday
I went up Crater Hill. I feared that our floe at Pram Point
would go, but yesterday it still remained, though the cracks
are getting more open. We should be in a hole if it went. [18]
As I came down the hill yesterday I saw a strange figure
advancing and found it belonged to Griffith Taylor. He and his
party had returned safely. They were very full of their adventures.
The main part of their work seems to be rediscovery of many
facts which were noted but perhaps passed over too lightly in
the Discovery --but it is certain that the lessons taught by
the physiographical and ice features will now be thoroughly
explained. A very interesting fact lies in the continuous bright
sunshiny weather which the party enjoyed during the first four
weeks of their work. They seem to have avoided all our stormy
winds and blizzards.
But I must leave Griffith Taylor
to tell his own story, which will certainly be a lengthy one.
The party gives Evans [P.O.] a very high character.
To-day
we have a large seal-killing party. I hope to get in a good
fortnight's allowance of blubber as well as meat, and pray that
our floe will remain.
Friday, March 17, A.M
We killed eleven seals at Pram Point on Wednesday, had lunch
on the Point, and carried some half ton of the blubber and meat
back to camp--it was a stiff pull up the hill.
Yesterday
the last Corner Party started: Evans, Wright, Crean, and Forde
in one team; Bowers, Oates, Cherry-Garrard, and Atkinson in
the other. It was very sporting of Wright to join in after only
a day's rest. He is evidently a splendid puller.
Debenham
has become principal cook, and evidently enjoys the task.
Taylor is full of good spirits and anecdote, an addition
to the party.
Yesterday after a beautifully fine morning
we got a strong northerly wind which blew till the middle of
the night, crowding the young ice up the Strait. Then the wind
suddenly shifted to the south, and I thought we were in for
a blizzard; but this morning the wind has gone to the S.E
the stratus cloud formed by the north wind is dissipating, and
the damp snow deposited in the night is drifting. It looks like
a fine evening.
Steadily we are increasing the comforts
of the hut. The stove has been improved out of all recognition;
with extra stove-pipes we get no back draughts, no smoke inside,
whilst the economy of fuel is much increased.
Insulation
inside and out is the subject we are now attacking.
The
young ice is going to and fro, but the sea refuses to freeze
over so far--except in the region of Pram Point, where a bay
has remained for some four days holding some pieces of Barrier
in its grip. These pieces have come from the edge of the Barrier
and some are crumbling already, showing a deep and rapid surface
deposit of snow and therefore the probability that they are
drifted sea ice not more than a year or two old, the depth of
the drift being due to proximity to an old Barrier edge.
I have just taken to pyjama trousers and shall don an extra
shirt--I have been astonished at the warmth which I have felt
throughout in light clothing. So far I have had nothing more
than a singlet and jersey under pyjama jacket and a single pair
of drawers under wind trousers. A hole in the drawers of ancient
date means that one place has had no covering but the wind trousers,
yet I have never felt cold about the body.
In spite of
all little activities I am impatient of our wait here. But I
shall be impatient also in the main hut. It is ill to sit still
and contemplate the ruin which has assailed our transport. The
scheme of advance must be very different from that which I first
contemplated. The Pole is a very long way off, alas!
Bit by bit I am losing all faith in the dogs--I'm afraid they
will never go the pace we look for.
Saturday,
March 18, A.M
Still blowing and drifting. It seems
as though there can be no peace at this spot till the sea is
properly frozen over. It blew very hard from the S.E. yesterday--I
could scarcely walk against the wind. In the night it fell calm;
the moon shone brightly at midnight. Then the sky became overcast
and the temperature rose to +11. Now the wind is coming in spurts
from the south--all indications of a blizzard.
With the
north wind of Friday the ice must have pressed up on Hut Point.
A considerable floe of pressed up young ice is grounded under
the point, and this morning we found a seal on this. Just as
the party started out to kill it, it slid off into the water--it
had evidently finished its sleep--but it is encouraging to have
had a chance to capture a seal so close to the hut.
Monday, March 20
On Saturday night it blew
hard from the south, thick overhead, low stratus and drift.
The sea spray again came over the ice foot and flung up almost
to the dogs; by Sunday morning the wind had veered to the S.E.,
and all yesterday it blew with great violence and temperature
down to -11° and -12°.
We were confined to the
hut and its immediate environs. Last night the wind dropped,
and for a few hours this morning we had light airs only, the
temperature rising to -2°.
The continuous bad weather
is very serious for the dogs. We have strained every nerve to
get them comfortable, but the changes of wind made it impossible
to afford shelter in all directions. Some five or six dogs are
running loose, but we dare not allow the stronger animals such
liberty. They suffer much from the cold, but they don't get
worse.
The small white dog which fell into the crevasse
on our home journey died yesterday. Under the best circumstances
I doubt if it could have lived, as there had evidently been
internal injury and an external sore had grown gangrenous. Three
other animals are in a poor way, but may pull through with luck.
We had a stroke of luck to-day. The young ice pressed up
off Hut Point has remained fast--a small convenient platform
jutting out from the point. We found two seals on it to-day
and killed them--thus getting a good supply of meat for the
dogs and some more blubber for our fire. Other seals came up
as the first two were being skinned, so that one may now hope
to keep up all future supplies on this side of the ridge.
As I write the wind is blowing up again and looks like returning
to the south. The only comfort is that these strong cold winds
with no sun must go far to cool the waters of the Sound.
The continuous bad weather is trying to the spirits, but
we are fairly comfortable in the hut and only suffer from lack
of exercise to work off the heavy meals our appetites demand.
Tuesday, March 21
The wind returned
to the south at 8 last night. It gradually increased in force
until 2 A.M., when it was blowing from the S.S.W., force 9 to
10. The sea was breaking constantly and heavily on the ice foot.
The spray carried right over the Point--covering all things
and raining on the roof of the hut. Poor Vince's cross, some
30 feet above the water, was enveloped in it.
Of course
the dogs had a very poor time, and we went and released two
or three, getting covered in spray during the operation--our
wind clothes very wet.
This is the third gale from the
south since our arrival here. Any one of these would have rendered
the Bay impossible for a ship, and therefore it is extraordinary
that we should have entirely escaped such a blow when the Discovery
was in it in 1902.
The effects of this gale are evident
and show that it is a most unusual occurrence. The rippled snow
surface of the ice foot is furrowed in all directions and covered
with briny deposit--a condition we have never seen before. The
ice foot at the S.W. corner of the bay is broken down, bare
rock appearing for the first time.
The sledges, magnetic
huts, and in fact every exposed object on the Point are thickly
covered with brine. Our seal floe has gone, so it is good-bye
to seals on this side for some time.
The dogs are the
main sufferers by this continuance of phenomenally terrible
weather. At least four are in a bad state; some six or seven
others are by no means fit and well, but oddly enough some ten
or a dozen animals are as fit as they can be. Whether constitutionally
harder or whether better fitted by nature or chance to protect
themselves it is impossible to say--Osman, Czigane, Krisravitsa,
Hohol, and some others are in first-rate condition, whilst Lappa
is better than he has ever been before.
It is so impossible
to keep the dogs comfortable in the traces and so laborious
to be continually attempting it, that we have decided to let
the majority run loose. It will be wonderful if we can avoid
one or two murders, but on the other hand probably more would
die if we kept them in leash.
We shall try and keep the
quarrelsome dogs chained up.
The main trouble that seems
to come on the poor wretches is the icing up of their hindquarters;
once the ice gets thoroughly into the coat the hind legs get
half paralysed with cold. The hope is that the animals will
free themselves of this by running about.
Well, well,
fortune is not being very kind to us. This month will have sad
memories. Still I suppose things might be worse; the ponies
are well housed and are doing exceedingly well, though we have
slightly increased their food allowance.
Yesterday afternoon
we climbed Observation Hill to see some examples of spheroidal
weathering--Wilson knew of them and guided. The geologists state
that they indicate a columnar structure, the tops of the columns
being weathered out.
The specimens we saw were very perfect.
Had some interesting instruction in geology in the evening.
I should not regret a stay here with our two geologists if only
the weather would allow us to get about.
This morning
the wind moderated and went to the S.E.; the sea naturally fell
quickly. The temperature this morning was + 17°; minimum
+11°. But now the wind is increasing from the S.E. and it
is momentarily getting colder.
Thursday, March
23, A.M
No signs of depot party, which to-night
will have been a week absent. On Tuesday afternoon we went up
to the Big Boulder above Ski slope. The geologists were interested,
and we others learnt something of olivines, green in crystal
form or oxidized to bright red, granites or granulites or quartzites,
hornblende and feldspars, ferrous and ferric oxides of lava
acid, basic, plutonic, igneous, eruptive--schists, basalts &c.
All such things I must get clearer in my mind. [19]
Tuesday
afternoon a cold S.E. wind commenced and blew all night.
Yesterday morning it was calm and I went up Crater Hill.
The sea of stratus cloud hung curtain-like over the Strait--blue
sky east and south of it and the Western Mountains bathed in
sunshine, sharp, clear, distinct, a glorious glimpse of grandeur
on which the curtain gradually descended. In the morning it
looked as though great pieces of Barrier were drifting out.
From the hill one found these to be but small fragments which
the late gale had dislodged, leaving in places a blue wall very
easily distinguished from the general white of the older fractures.
The old floe and a good extent of new ice had remained fast
in Pram Point Bay. Great numbers of seals up as usual. The temperature
was up to +20° at noon. In the afternoon a very chill wind
from the east, temperature rapidly dropping till zero in the
evening. The Strait obstinately refuses to freeze.
We
are scoring another success in the manufacture of blubber lamps,
which relieves anxiety as to lighting as the hours of darkness
increase.
The young ice in Pram Point Bay is already
being pressed up.
Friday, March 24, A.M
Skuas still about, a few--very shy--very dark in colour after
moulting.
Went along Arrival Heights yesterday with very
keen over-ridge wind--it was difficult to get shelter. In the
evening it fell calm and has remained all night with temperature
up to + 18°. This morning it is snowing with fairly large
flakes.
Yesterday for the first time saw the ice foot
on the south side of the bay, a wall some 5 or 6 ft. above water
and 12 or 14 ft. below; the sea bottom quite clear with the
white wall resting on it. This must be typical of the ice foot
all along the coast, and the wasting of caves at sea level alone
gives the idea of an overhanging mass. Very curious and interesting
erosion of surface of the ice foot by waves during recent gale.
The depot party returned yesterday morning. They had thick
weather on the outward march and missed the track, finally doing
30 miles between Safety Camp and Corner Camp. They had a hard
blow up to force 8 on the night of our gale. Started N.W. and
strongest S.S.E.
The sea wants to freeze--a thin coating
of ice formed directly the wind dropped; but the high temperature
does not tend to thicken it rapidly and the tide makes many
an open lead. We have been counting our resources and arranging
for another twenty days' stay.
Saturday, March
25, A.M
We have had two days of surprisingly warm
weather, the sky overcast, snow falling, wind only in light
airs. Last night the sky was clearing, with a southerly wind,
and this morning the sea was open all about us. It is disappointing
to find the ice so reluctant to hold; at the same time one supposes
that the cooling of the water is proceeding and therefore that
each day makes it easier for the ice to form--the sun seems
to have lost all power, but I imagine its rays still tend to
warm the surface water about the noon hours. It is only a week
now to the date which I thought would see us all at Cape Evans.
The warmth of the air has produced a comparatively uncomfortable
state of affairs in the hut. The ice on the inner roof is melting
fast, dripping on the floor and streaming down the sides. The
increasing cold is checking the evil even as I write. Comfort
could only be ensured in the hut either by making a clean sweep
of all the ceiling ice or by keeping the interior at a critical
temperature little above freezing-point.
Sunday,
March 26, P.M
Yesterday morning went along Arrival
Heights in very cold wind. Afternoon to east side Observation
Hill. As afternoon advanced, wind fell. Glorious evening--absolutely
calm, smoke ascending straight. Sea frozen over--looked very
much like final freezing, but in night wind came from S.E.,
producing open water all along shore. Wind continued this morning
with drift, slackened in afternoon; walked over Gap and back
by Crater Heights to Arrival Heights.
Sea east of Cape
Armitage pretty well covered with ice; some open pools--sea
off shore west of the Cape frozen in pools, open lanes close
to shore as far as Castle Rock. Bays either side of Glacier
Tongue look fairly well frozen. Hut still dropping water badly.
Held service in hut this morning, read Litany. One skua
seen to-day.
Monday, March 27, P.M
Strong easterly wind on ridge to-day rushing down over slopes
on western side.
Ice holding south from about Hut Point,
but cleared 1/2 to 3/4 mile from shore to northward. Cleared
in patches also, I am told, on both sides of Glacier Tongue,
which is annoying. A regular local wind. The Barrier edge can
be seen clearly all along, showing there is little or no drift.
Have been out over the Gap for walk. Glad to say majority of
people seem anxious to get exercise, but one or two like the
fire better.
The dogs are getting fitter each day, and
all save one or two have excellent coats. I was very pleased
to find one or two of the animals voluntarily accompanying us
on our walk. It is good to see them trotting against a strong
drift.
Tuesday, March 28
Slowly but
surely the sea is freezing over. The ice holds and thickens
south of Hut Point in spite of strong easterly wind and in spite
of isolated water holes which obstinately remain open. It is
difficult to account for these--one wonders if the air currents
shoot downward on such places; but even so it is strange that
they do not gradually diminish in extent. A great deal of ice
seems to have remained in and about the northern islets, but
it is too far to be sure that there is a continuous sheet.
We are building stabling to accommodate four more ponies
under the eastern verandah. When this is complete we shall be
able to shelter seven animals, and this should be enough for
winter and spring operations.
Thursday, March
30
The ice holds south of Hut Point, though not
thickening rapidly--yesterday was calm and the same ice conditions
seemed to obtain on both sides of the Glacier Tongue. It looks
as though the last part of the road to become safe will be the
stretch from Hut Point to Turtleback Island. Here the sea seems
disinclined to freeze even in calm weather. To-day there is
more strong wind from the east. White horse all along under
the ridge.
The period of our stay here seems to promise
to lengthen. It is trying--trying--but we can live, which is
something. I should not be greatly surprised if we had to wait
till May. Several skuas were about the camp yesterday. I have
seen none to-day.
Two rorquals were rising close to Hut
Point this morning--although the ice is nowhere thick it was
strange to see them making for the open leads and thin places
to blow.
Friday, March 31
I studied
the wind blowing along the ridge yesterday and came to the conclusion
that a comparatively thin shaft of air was moving along the
ridge from Erebus. On either side of the ridge it seemed to
pour down from the ridge itself--there was practically no wind
on the sea ice off Pram Point, and to the westward of Hut Point
the frost smoke was drifting to the N.W. The temperature ranges
about zero. It seems to be almost certain that the perpetual
wind is due to the open winter. Meanwhile the sea refuses to
freeze over.
Wright pointed out the very critical point
which zero temperature represents in the freezing of salt water,
being the freezing temperature of concentrated brine--a very
few degrees above or below zero would make all the difference
to the rate of increase of the ice thickness.
Yesterday
the ice was 8 inches in places east of Cape Armitage and 6 inches
in our Bay: it was said to be fast to the south of the Glacier
Tongue well beyond Turtleback Island and to the north out of
the Islands, except for a strip of water immediately north of
the Tongue.
We are good for another week in pretty well
every commodity and shall then have to reduce luxuries. But
we have plenty of seal meat, blubber and biscuit, and can therefore
remain for a much longer period if needs be. Meanwhile the days
are growing shorter and the weather colder.
Saturday,
April 1
The wind yesterday was blowing across the
Ridge from the top down on the sea to the west: very little
wind on the eastern slopes and practically none at Pram Point.
A seal came up in our Bay and was killed. Taylor found a number
of fish frozen into the sea ice--he says there are several in
a small area.
The pressure ridges in Pram Point Bay are
estimated by Wright to have set up about 3 feet. This ice has
been 'in' about ten days. It is now safe to work pretty well
anywhere south of Hut Point.
Went to Third Crater (next
Castle Rock) yesterday. The ice seems to be holding in the near
Bay from a point near Hulton Rocks to Glacier; also in the whole
of the North Bay except for a tongue of open water immediately
north of the Glacier.
The wind is the same to-day as
yesterday, and the open water apparently not reduced by a square
yard. I'm feeling impatient.
Sunday, April 2,
A.M
Went round Cape Armitage to Pram Point on sea
ice for first time yesterday afternoon. Ice solid everywhere,
except off the Cape, where there are numerous open pools. Can
only imagine layers of comparatively warm water brought to the
surface by shallows. The ice between the pools is fairly shallow.
One Emperor killed off the Cape. Several skuas seen--three seals
up in our Bay--several off Pram Point in the shelter of Horse
Shoe Bay. A great many fish on sea ice--mostly small, but a
second species 5 or 6 inches long: imagine they are chased by
seals and caught in brashy ice where they are unable to escape.
Came back over hill: glorious sunset, brilliant crimson clouds
in west.
Returned to find wind dropping, the first time
for three days. It turned to north in the evening. Splendid
aurora in the night; a bright band of light from S.S.W. to E.N.E.
passing within 10° of the zenith with two waving spirals
at the summit. This morning sea to north covered with ice. Min.
temp, for night -5°, but I think most of the ice was brought
in by the wind. Things look more hopeful. Ice now continuous
to Cape Evans, but very thin as far as Glacier Tongue; three
or four days of calm or light winds should make everything firm.
Wednesday, April 5, A.M
The east wind
has continued with a short break on Sunday for five days, increasing
in violence and gradually becoming colder and more charged with
snow until yesterday, when we had a thick overcast day with
falling and driving snow and temperature down to -11°.
Went beyond Castle Rock on Sunday and Monday mornings with
Griffith Taylor.
Think the wind fairly local and that
the Strait has frozen over to the north, as streams of drift
snow and ice crystals (off the cliffs) were building up the
ice sheet towards the wind. Monday we could see the approaching
white sheet--yesterday it was visibly closer to land, though
the wind had not decreased. Walking was little pleasure on either
day: yesterday climbed about hills to see all possible. No one
else left the hut. In the evening the wind fell and freezing
continued during night (min
17°). This morning there
is ice everywhere. I cannot help thinking it has come to stay.
In Arrival Bay it is 6 to 7 inches thick, but the new pools
beyond have only I inch of the regular elastic sludgy new ice.
The sky cleared last night, and this morning we have sunshine
for the first time for many days. If this weather holds for
a day we shall be all right. We are getting towards the end
of our luxuries, so that it is quite time we made a move--we
are very near the end of the sugar.
The skuas seem to
have gone, the last was seen on Sunday. These birds were very
shy towards the end of their stay, also very dark in plumage;
they did not seem hungry, and yet it must have been difficult
for them to get food.
The seals are coming up in our
Bay--five last night. Luckily the dogs have not yet discovered
them or the fact that the sea ice will bear them.
Had
an interesting talk with Taylor on agglomerate and basaltic
dykes of Castle Rock. The perfection of the small cone craters
below Castle Rock seem to support the theory we have come to,
that there have been volcanic disturbances since the recession
of the greater ice sheet.
It is a great thing having
Wright to fog out the ice problems, and he has had a good opportunity
of observing many interesting things here. He is keeping notes
of ice changes and a keen eye on ice phenomena; we have many
discussions.
Yesterday Wilson prepared a fry of seal
meat with penguin blubber. It had a flavour like cod-liver oil
and was not much appreciated--some ate their share, and I think
all would have done so if we had had sledging appetites--shades
of Discovery days!! 16
This Emperor weighed anything
from 88 to 96 lbs., and therefore approximated to or exceeded
the record.
The dogs are doing pretty well with one or
two exceptions. Deek is the worst, but I begin to think all
will pull through.
Thursday, April 6, A.M
The weather continued fine and clear yesterday--one of the very
few fine days we have had since our arrival at the hut.
The sun shone continuously from early morning till it set
behind the northern hills about 5 P.M. The sea froze completely,
but with only a thin sheet to the north. A fairly strong northerly
wind sprang up, causing this thin ice to override and to leave
several open leads near the land. In the forenoon I went to
the edge of the new ice with Wright. It looked at the limit
of safety and we did not venture far. The over-riding is interesting:
the edge of one sheet splits as it rises and slides over the
other sheet in long tongues which creep onward impressively.
Whilst motion lasts there is continuous music, a medley of high
pitched but tuneful notes--one might imagine small birds chirping
in a wood. The ice sings, we say.
P.M
In the afternoon
went nearly two miles to the north over the young ice; found
it about 3 1/2 inches thick. At supper arranged programme for
shift to Cape Evans--men to go on Saturday--dogs Sunday--ponies
Monday--all subject to maintenance of good weather of course.
Friday, April 7
Went north over ice
with Atkinson, Bowers, Taylor, Cherry-Garrard; found the thickness
nearly 5 inches everywhere except in open water leads, which
remain open in many places. As we got away from the land we
got on an interesting surface of small pancakes, much capped
and pressed up, a sort of mosaic. This is the ice which was
built up from lee side of the Strait, spreading across to windward
against the strong winds of Monday and Tuesday.
Another
point of interest was the manner in which the overriding ice
sheets had scraped the under floes.
Taylor fell in when
rather foolishly trying to cross a thinly covered lead--he had
a very scared face for a moment or two whilst we hurried to
the rescue, but hauled himself out with his ice axe without
our help and walked back with Cherry.
The remainder of
us went on till abreast of the sulphur cones under Castle Rock,
when we made for the shore, and with a little mutual help climbed
the cliff and returned by land.
As far as one can see
all should be well for our return to-morrow, but the sky is
clouding to-night and a change of weather seems imminent. Three
successive fine days seem near the limit in this region.
We have picked up quite a number of fish frozen in the ice--the
larger ones about the size of a herring and the smaller of a
minnow. We imagined both had been driven into the slushy ice
by seals, but to-day Gran found a large fish frozen in the act
of swallowing a small one. It looks as though both small and
large are caught when one is chasing the other.
We have
achieved such great comfort here that one is half sorry to leave--it
is a fine healthy existence with many hours spent in the open
and generally some interesting object for our walks abroad.
The hill climbing gives excellent exercise--we shall miss much
of it at Cape Evans. But I am anxious to get back and see that
all is well at the latter, as for a long time I have been wondering
how our beach has withstood the shocks of northerly winds. The
thought that the hut may have been damaged by the sea in one
of the heavy storms will not be banished.
A Sketch of
the Life at Hut Point
We gather around the fire seated
on packing-cases to receive them with a hunk of butter and a
steaming pannikin of tea, and life is well worth living. After
lunch we are out and about again; there is little to tempt a
long stay indoors and exercise keeps us all the fitter.
The falling light and approach of supper drives us home
again with good appetites about 5 or 6 o'clock, and then the
cooks rival one another in preparing succulent dishes of fried
seal liver. A single dish may not seem to offer much opportunity
of variation, but a lot can be done with a little flour, a handful
of raisins, a spoonful of curry powder, or the addition of a
little boiled pea meal. Be this as it may, we never tire of
our dish and exclamations of satisfaction can be heard every
night--or nearly every night, for two nights ago [April 4] Wilson,
who has proved a genius in the invention of 'plats,' almost
ruined his reputation. He proposed to fry the seal liver in
penguin blubber, suggesting that the latter could be freed from
all rankness. The blubber was obtained and rendered down with
great care, the result appeared as delightfully pure fat free
from smell; but appearances were deceptive; the 'fry' proved
redolent of penguin, a concentrated essence of that peculiar
flavour which faintly lingers in the meat and should not be
emphasised. Three heroes got through their pannikins, but the
rest of us decided to be contented with cocoa and biscuit after
tasting the first mouthful. After supper we have an hour or
so of smoking and conversation--a cheering, pleasant hour--in
which reminiscences are exchanged by a company which has very
literally had world-wide experience. There is scarce a country
under the sun which one or another of us has not travelled in,
so diverse are our origins and occupations. An hour or so after
supper we tail off one by one, spread out our sleeping-bags,
take off our shoes and creep into comfort, for our reindeer
bags are really warm and comfortable now that they have had
a chance of drying, and the hut retains some of the heat generated
in it. Thanks to the success of the blubber lamps and to a fair
supply of candles, we can muster ample light to read for another
hour or two, and so tucked up in our furs we study the social
and political questions of the past decade.
We muster
no less than sixteen. Seven of us pretty well cover the floor
of one wing of the L-shaped enclosure, four sleep in the other
wing, which also holds the store, whilst the remaining five
occupy the annexe and affect to find the colder temperature
more salubrious. Everyone can manage eight or nine hours' sleep
without a break, and not a few would have little difficulty
in sleeping the clock round, which goes to show that our extremely
simple life is an exceedingly healthy one, though with faces
and hands blackened with smoke, appearances might not lead an
outsider to suppose it.
Sunday, April 9, A.M
On Friday night it grew overcast and the wind went to the south.
During the whole of yesterday and last night it blew a moderate
blizzard--the temperature at highest +5°, a relatively small
amount of drift. On Friday night the ice in the Strait went
out from a line meeting the shore 3/4 mile north of Hut Point.
A crack off Hut Point and curving to N.W. opened to about 15
or 20 feet, the opening continuing on the north side of the
Point. It is strange that the ice thus opened should have remained.
Ice cleared out to the north directly wind commenced--it
didn't wait a single instant, showing that our journey over
it earlier in the day was a very risky proceeding--the uncertainty
of these conditions is beyond words, but there shall be no more
of this foolish venturing on young ice. This decision seems
to put off the return of the ponies to a comparatively late
date.
Yesterday went to the second crater, Arrival Heights,
hoping to see the condition of the northerly bays, but could
see little or nothing owing to drift. A white line dimly seen
on the horizon seemed to indicate that the ice drifted out has
not gone far.
Some skuas were seen yesterday, a very
late date. The seals disinclined to come on the ice; one can
be seen at Cape Armitage this morning, but it is two or three
days since there was one up in our Bay. It will certainly be
some time before the ponies can be got back.
Monday, April 10, P.M
Intended to make for Cape
Evans this morning. Called hands early, but when we were ready
for departure after breakfast, the sky became more overcast
and snow began to fall. It continued off and on all day, only
clearing as the sun set. It would have been the worst condition
possible for our attempt, as we could not have been more than
100 yards.
Conditions look very unfavourable for the
continued freezing of the Strait.
Thursday, April
13
Started from Hut Point 9 A.M. Tuesday. Party
consisted of self, Bowers, P.O. Evans, Taylor, one tent; Evans,
Gran, Crean, Debenham, and Wright, second tent. Left Wilson
in charge at Hut Point with Meares, Forde, Keohane, Oates, Atkinson,
and Cherry-Garrard. All gave us a pull up the ski slope; it
had become a point of honour to take this slope without a 'breather.'
I find such an effort trying in the early morning, but had to
go through with it.
Weather fine; we marched past Castle
Rock, east of it; the snow was soft on the slopes, showing the
shelter afforded--continued to traverse the ridge for the first
time--found quite good surface much wind swept--passed both
cones on the ridge on the west side. Caught a glimpse of fast
ice in the Bays either side of Glacier as expected, but in the
near Bay its extent was very small. Evidently we should have
to go well along the ridge before descending, and then the problem
would be how to get down over the cliffs. On to Hulton Rocks
7 1/2 miles from the start--here it was very icy and wind swept,
inhospitable--the wind got up and light became bad just at the
critical moment, so we camped and had some tea at 2 P.M. A clearance
half an hour later allowed us to see a possible descent to the
ice cliffs, but between Hulton Rocks and Erebus all the slope
was much cracked and crevassed. We chose a clear track to the
edge of the cliffs, but could find no low place in these, the
lowest part being 24 feet sheer drop. Arriving here the wind
increased, the snow drifting off the ridge--we had to decide
quickly; I got myself to the edge and made standing places to
work the rope; dug away at the cornice, well situated for such
work in harness. Got three people lowered by the Alpine rope--Evans,
Bowers, and Taylor--then sent down the sledges, which went down
in fine style, fully packed--then the remainder of the party.
For the last three, drove a stake hard down in the snow and
used the rope round it, the men being lowered by people below--came
down last myself. Quite a neat and speedy bit of work and all
done in 20 minutes without serious frostbite--quite pleased
with the result.
We found pulling to Glacier Tongue very
heavy over the surface of ice covered with salt crystals, and
reached Glacier Tongue about 5.30; found a low place and got
the sledges up the 6 ft. wall pretty easily. Stiff incline,
but easy pulling on hard surface--the light was failing and
the surface criss-crossed with innumerable cracks; several of
us fell in these with risk of strain, but the north side was
well snow-covered and easy, with a good valley leading to a
low ice cliff--here a broken piece afforded easy descent. I
decided to push on for Cape Evans, so camped for tea at 6. At
6.30 found darkness suddenly arrived; it was very difficult
to see anything--we got down on the sea ice, very heavy pulling,
but plodded on for some hours; at 10 arrived close under little
Razor Back Island, and not being able to see anything ahead,
decided to camp and got to sleep at 11.30 in no very comfortable
circumstances.
The wind commenced to rise during night.
We found a roaring blizzard in the morning. We had many alarms
for the safety of the ice on which the camp was pitched. Bowers
and Taylor climbed the island; reported wind terrific on the
summit--sweeping on either side but comparatively calm immediately
to windward and to leeward. Waited all day in hopes of a lull;
at 3 I went round the island myself with Bowers, and found a
little ice platform close under the weather side; resolved to
shift camp here. It took two very cold hours, but we gained
great shelter, the cliffs rising almost sheer from the tents.
Only now and again a whirling wind current eddied down on the
tents, which were well secured, but the noise of the wind sweeping
over the rocky ridge above our heads was deafening; we could
scarcely hear ourselves speak. Settled down for our second night
with little comfort, and slept better, knowing we could not
be swept out to sea, but provisions were left only for one more
meal.
During the night the wind moderated and we could
just see outline of land.
I roused the party at 7 A.M.
and we were soon under weigh, with a desperately cold and stiff
breeze and frozen clothes; it was very heavy pulling, but the
distance only two miles. Arrived off the point about ten and
found sea ice continued around it. It was a very great relief
to see the hut on rounding it and to hear that all was well.
Another pony, Hackenschmidt, and one dog reported dead,
but this certainly is not worse than expected. All the other
animals are in good form.
Delighted with everything I
see in the hut. Simpson has done wonders, but indeed so has
everyone else, and I must leave description to a future occasion.
Friday, April 14
Good Friday. Peaceful
day. Wind continuing 20 to 30 miles per hour.
Had divine
service.
Saturday, April 15
Weather
continuing thoroughly bad. Wind blowing from 30 to 40 miles
an hour all day; drift bad, and to-night snow falling. I am
waiting to get back to Hut Point with relief stores. To-night
sent up signal light to inform them there of our safe arrival--an
answering flare was shown.
Sunday, April 16
Same wind as yesterday up to 6 o'clock, when it fell calm with
gusts from the north.
Have exercised the ponies to-day
and got my first good look at them. I scarcely like to express
the mixed feelings with which I am able to regard this remnant.
Freezing of Bays. Cape Evans
March 15
General young ice formed.
March 19
Bay cleared except strip inside Inaccessible and Razor Back
Islands to Corner Turk's Head.
March 20
Everything cleared.
March 25
Sea
froze over inside Islands for good.
March 28
Sea frozen as far as seen.
March 30
Remaining only inside Islands.
April 1
Limit Cape to Island.
April 6
Present
limit freezing in Strait and in North Bay.
April
9
Strait cleared except former limit and some ice
in North Bay likely to remain.
CHAPTER VIII -
HOME IMPRESSIONS AND AN EXCURSION