Chapter 27- THROUGH ANOTHER YEAR
The Home of the Blizzard
By Douglas Mawson
Preface
Chapters:
1 - The Problem
and Preparations |
2 - The Last
Days of Hobart and the Voyage to Macquarie Island |
3 - From Macquarie
Island to Adelie Land |
4 - New Lands
| 5 - First
Days in Adelie Land |
6 - Autumn
Prospects |
7 - The Blizzard |
8 - Domestic
Life | 9
- Midwinter and its Work |
10 - The
Preparation of Sledging Equipment |
11 - Spring
Exploits |
12 - Across King George V Land |
13 - Toil
and Tribulation |
14 -
The Quest of the South Magnetic Pole
| 15
- Eastward Over the Sea-Ice |
16 - Horn
Bluff and Penguin Point |
17 - With
Stillwell's and Bickerton's Parties |
18 - The
Ship's Story |
19 - The
Western Base - Establishment and Early Adventures |
20 - The
Western base - Winter and Spring |
21 - The
Western Base - Blocked on the Shelf-Ice |
22 - The
Western base - Linking up with Kaiser Wilhelm II Land
| 23 - A
Second Winter |
24 - Nearing
the End |
25 - Life on Macquarie Island |
26 - A Land
of Storm and Mist |
27- Through
Another Year |
28 - The
Homeward Cruise
Appendices:
2 - Scientific Work
| 3 - An Historical
Summary | 4
- Glossary |
5 - Medical Reports |
6 - Finance
| 7 - Equipment
Summary (2 pages) of the
Australian Antarctic Expedition
| The
Men of the Expedition
CHAPTER XXVII
THROUGH ANOTHER YEAR
by G. F. Ainsworth
We had now thrown a year behind and the work
we set out to accomplish was almost finished; so it was with
pleasurable feelings that we took up the burden of completion,
looking forward to the arrival of April 1913 which should bring
us final relief and the prospects of civilisation. I shall deal
with the first three months of the year as one period, since
almost all the field-work, except photography, had been done,
and, after the return of Blake and Hamilton from Lusitania Bay
on January 8, our life was one of routine; much time being devoted
to packing and labelling specimens in anticipation of departure.
The first business of the year was to overhaul the wireless
station, and on the 6th, Sawyer, Sandell and I spent the day
laying in a supply of benzine from Aerial Cove, changing worn
ropes, tightening stay-wires, straightening the southern masts
and finally hauling the aerial taut. These duties necessitated
much use of the ``handy billy,'' and one has but to
form an acquaintance with this desirable ``person''
to thoroughly appreciate his value.
Blake and Hamilton
returned on January 8 and reported that their work was finished
at the southern end. Thenceforth they intended to devote their
time to finishing what remained to be done at the northern end
and in adding to their collections. Blake, for instance, resolved
to finish his chart of the island, and, if time permitted, to
make a topographical survey of the locality, as it was of great
geological interest. Hamilton made the discovery that a number
of bird specimens he had packed away were mildewed, and as a
result he was compelled to overhaul the whole lot and attend
to them. He found another colony of mutton birds on North Head,
the existence of which was quite unexpected till he dug one
out of a burrow thought to contain ``night-birds.''
About the middle of January I endeavoured to do a little
meteorological work with the aid of some box-kites nanufactured
by Sandell. But though a number of them were induced to fly,
we had no success in getting them up with the instruments attached.
They all had a habit of suddenly losing equilibrium and then
indulging in a series of rapid dives and plunges which usually
ended in total wreckage.
The `Rachel Cohen' again
visited the island on January 26, but this time she anchored
off ``The Nuggets,'' whither the sealers had gone to
live during the penguin season. We could see the ship lying
about a mile offshore, and walked down to get our mails and
anything else she had brought along for us. I received a letter
from the Secretary of the Expedition saying that he had made
arrangements for us to return by the `Rachel Cohen' early
in April, and the news caused a little excitement, being the
only definite information we had had concerning relief.
The end of the first month found Blake and Hamilton both
very busy in making suitable boxes for specimens. Many of the
larger birds could not be packed in ordinary cases, so Hamilton
had to make specially large ones to accommodate them, and Blake's
rock specimens being very heavy, extra strong boxes had to be
made, always keeping in view the fact that each was to weigh
not more than eighty pounds, so as to ensure convenient handling.
After a silence of about four months, we again heard Adelie
Land on February 3, but the same old trouble existed, that is,
they could not hear us. Sawyer called them again and again,
getting no reply, but we reckoned that conditions would improve
in a few weeks, as the hours of darkness increased.
Hamilton
and I made a trip to the hill-tops on the 4th for the purpose
of taking a series of plant and earth temperatures which were
of interest biologically, and while there I took the opportunity
of obtaining temperatures in all the lakes we saw. Hamilton
also took some panoramic photographs from the various eminences
and all of them turned out well.
During the evening Adelie
Land sent out a message saying that Dr. Mawson had not yet returned
to the Base from his sledging trip and Sawyer received it without
difficulty, but though he ``pounded away'' in return
for a considerable time, he was not heard, as no reply or acknowledgment
was made.
The `Rachel Cohen' remained till the 5th,
when a northerly gale arose and drove her away. As she had a
good cargo of oil on board no one expected her to return. We
had sent our mail on board several days previously as experience
had shown us that the sailing date of ships visiting the island
was very uncertain.
Sandell met with a slight though
painful accident on the 7th. He was starting the engine, when
it ``backfired'' and the handle flying off with great
force struck him on the face, inflicting a couple of nasty cuts,
loosening several teeth, and lacerating the inside of his cheek.
A black eye appeared in a day or two and his face swelled considerably,
but nothing serious supervened. In a few days the swelling had
subsided and any anxiety we felt was at an end.
We now
had only two sheep left, and on the 8th Blake and I went to
kill one. Mac accompanied us. Seeing the sheep running away,
she immediately set off after them, notwithstanding our threats,
yells and curses. They disappeared over a spur, but shortly
afterwards Mac returned, and, being severely thrashed, immediately
left for home. We looked for the sheep during the rest of the
day but could find no trace of them, and though we searched
for many days it was not till five weeks had elapsed that we
discovered them on a small ``landing'' about half-way
down the face of the cliff. They had apparently rushed over
the edge and, rolling down, had finally come to a stop on the
ledge where they were found later, alive and well.
On
the 8th Adelie Land was heard by us calling the `Aurora'
to return at once and pick up the rest of the party, stating
also that Lieutenant Ninnis and Dr. Mertz were dead. All of
us were shocked at the grievous intelligence and every effort
was made by Sawyer to call up Adelie Land, but without success.
On the following day we received news from Australia of
the disaster to Captain Scott's party.
Blake, who
was now geologizing and doing topographical work, discovered
several lignite seams in the hills on the east coast; he had
finished his chart of the island. The mainland is simply a range
of mountains which have been at some remote period partly submerged.
The land meets the sea in steep cliffs and bold headlands, whose
general height is from five hundred to seven hundred feet, with
many peaks ranging from nine hundred and fifty to one thousand
four hundred and twenty feet, the latter being the height of
Mount Hamilton, which rears up just at the back of Lusitania
Bay. Evidence of extreme glaciation is everywhere apparent,
and numerous tarns and lakes are scattered amongst the hills,
the tops of which are barren, wind-swept and weather-worn. The
hill sides are deeply scored by ravines, down which tumble small
streams, forming cascades at intervals on their hurried journey
towards the ocean. Some of these streams do not reach the sea
immediately, but disappear in the loose shingly beaches of peaty
swamps. The west coast is particularly rugged, and throughout
its length is strewn wreckage of various kinds, some of which
is now one hundred yards from the water's edge. Very few
stretches of what may be called ``beach'' occur on the
island;
the foreshores consisting for the most part of huge
water-worn boulders or loose gravel and shingle, across which
progress is slow and difficult.
A Section across Macquarie Island through
Mt. Elder
Apparently the ground shelves very rapidly
under the water, as a sounding of over two thousand fathoms
was obtained by the `Aurora' at a distance of eight miles
from the east coast. The trend of the island is about eleven
degrees from true north; the axis lying north by east to south
by west. At either end are the island-groups already referred
to, and their connexion with the mainland may be traced by the
sunken rocks indicated by the breaking seas on the line of reef.
A very severe storm about the middle of the month worked
up a tremendous sea, which was responsible for piling hundreds
of tons of kelp on the shore, and for several days tangled masses
could be seen drifting about like small floating islands.
On the 20th an event occurred to which we had long looked
forward, and which was now eagerly welcomed. Communication was
established with the Main Base in Adelie Land by wireless! A
message was received from Dr. Mawson confirming the deaths of
Ninnis and Mertz, and stating that the `Aurora' had not
picked up the whole party. Sawyer had a short talk with Jeffryes,
the Adelie Land operator, and among other scraps of news told
him we were all well.
Hamilton killed a sea elephant
on the 22nd. The animal was a little over seventeen feet long
and thirteen and a half feet in girth just at the back of the
flippers, while the total weight was more than four tons. It
took Hamilton about a day to complete the skinning, and, during
the process, the huge brute had to be twice turned over, but
such is the value of the nautical handy-billy that two men managed
it rather easily. When the skin had been removed, five of us
dragged it to the sealers' blubber-shed, where it was salted,
spread out, and left to cure.
We had communication with
Adelie Land again on the 26th, and messages were sent and received
by both stations. Dr. Mawson wirelessed to the effect that the
`Aurora' would, after picking up Wild's party, make
an attempt to return to Adelie Land if conditions were at all
favourable.
Finding that provisions were running rather
short on the last day of February, we reduced ourselves to an
allowance of one pound of sugar per week each, which was weighed
out every Thursday. Altogether there were only forty-five pounds
remaining. Thenceforth it was the custom for each to bring his
sugar-tin to the table every meal. The arrangement had its drawbacks,
inasmuch as no sugar was available for cooking unless a levy
were made. Thus puddings became rarities, because most of us
preferred to use the sugar in tea or coffee.
March came
blustering in, accompanied by a sixty-four-mile gale which did
damage to the extent of blowing down our annexe, tearing the
tarpaulin off the stores at the back and ripping the spouting
off the Shack. A high sea arose and the conformation of the
beach on the north-western side of the isthmus was completely
changed. Numbers of sea elephants' tusks and bones were
revealed, which had remained buried in the shingle probably
for many years, and heaps of kelp were piled up where before
there had been clean, stony beach. Kelp is a very tough weed,
but after being washed up and exposed to the air for a few days,
begins to decay, giving forth a most disagreeable smell.
At this time we caught numerous small fish amongst the rocks
at the water's edge with a hand line about four feet long.
It was simply a matter of dropping in the line, watching the
victim trifle with destiny and hauling him in at the precise
moment.
Wireless business was now being done nightly
with Adelie Land, and on the 7th I received a message from Dr.
Mawson saying that the party would in all probability be down
there for another season, and stating the necessity for keeping
Macquarie Island station going till the end of the year. This
message I read out to the men, and gave them a week in which
to view the matter. The alternatives were to return in April
or to remain till the end of the year.
I went through
the whole of the stores on the 10th, and found that the only
commodities upon which we would have to draw sparingly were
milk, sugar, kerosene, meats and coal. The flour would last
till May, but the butter allowance would have to be reduced
to three pounds per week.
It was on the 12th that we
found the lost sheep, but as we had some wekas, sufficient to
last us for several days, I did not kill one till the 15th.
On that day four of us went down towards the ledge where they
were standing, and shot one, which immediately toppled off and
rolled down some distance into the tussock, the other one leaping
after it without hesitation. While Blake and Hamilton skinned
the dead sheep, Sandell and I caught the other and tethered
it at the bottom of the hill amongst a patch of Maori cabbage,
as we thought it would probably get lost if left to roam loose.
However, on going to the spot next day, the sheep was nearly
dead, having got tangled up in the rope. So we let it go free,
only to lose the animal a day or two later, for it fell into
a bog and perished.
On March 22 a lunar eclipse occurred,
contact lasting a little over three hours from 9.45 P.M. till
within a few minutes of 1 A.M. on the 23rd. The period of total
eclipse was quite a lengthy one, and during the time it lasted
the darkness was intense. Cloud interfered for a while with
our observations in the total stage. No coronal effect was noted,
though a pulsating nebulous area appeared in front of the moon
just before contact.
A message came on the 27th saying
that the `Rachel Cohen' was sailing for Macquarie Island
on May 2, and would bring supplies as well as take back the
men who wished to be relieved, and this was forwarded in turn
to Dr. Mawson.
He replied, saying that the `Aurora'
would pick us up about the middle of November and convey us
to Antarctica, thence returning to Australia; but if any member
wished to return by the `Rachel Cohen' he could do so, though
notification would have to be given, in order to allow of substitutes
being appointed. All the members of the party elected to stay,
and I asked each man to give an outline of the work he intended
to pursue during the extended period.
During March strong
winds were recorded on fourteen days, reaching gale- force on
six occasions. The gale at the beginning of the month was the
strongest we had experienced, the velocity at 5.40 A.M. on the
1st reaching sixty-four miles per hour. Precipitation occurred
on twenty- six days and the average amount of cloud was 85 per
cent. A bright auroral display took place on the 6th, lasting
from 11.20 till 11.45 P.M. It assumed the usual arch-form stretching
from the south-east to south- west, and streamers and shafts
of light could be observed pulsating upwards towards the zenith.
We now started on what might be called the second stage
of our existence on the island. In the preceding pages I have
endeavoured to give some idea of what happened during what was
to have been our full period; but unforeseen circumstances
compelled us to extend our stay for eight months more, until
the `Aurora' came to relieve us in November. As the routine
was similar in a good many respects to that which we had just
gone through, I shall now refer to only the more salient features
of our life.
The loyalty of my fellows was undoubted,
and though any of them could have returned if he had felt so
inclined, I am proud to say that they all decided to see it
through. When one has looked forward hopefully to better social
conditions, more comfortable surroundings and reunion with friends,
it gives him a slight shock to find that the door has been slammed,
so to speak, for another twelve months. Nevertheless, we all
found that a strain of philosophy smoothed out the rough realities,
and in a short time were facing the situation with composure,
if not actual contentment.
We decided now to effect a
few improvements round about our abode, and all set to work
carrying gravel from the beach to put down in front of the Shack,
installing a sink-system to carry any waste water, fixing the
leaking roof and finally closing up the space between the lining
and the wall to keep out the rats.
We expected the `Rachel
Cohen' to leave Hobart with our stores on May 2, and reckoned
that the voyage would occupy two weeks. Thus, it would be six
weeks before she arrived. I was therefore compelled on the 10th
to reduce the sugar allowance to half a pound per week. We were
now taking it in turns to go once a week and get some wekas,
and it was always possible to secure about a dozen, which provided
sufficient meat for three dinners. Breakfast consisted generally
of fish, which we caught, or sea elephant in some form, whilst
we had tinned fish for lunch.
Sandell installed a telephone
service between the Shack and the wireless station about the
middle of April, the parts all being made by himself; and it
was certainly an ingenious and valuable contrivance. I, in particular,
learned to appreciate the convenience of it as time went on.
The buzzer was fixed on the wall close to the head of my bunk
and I could be called any time during the night from the wireless
station, thus rendering it possible to reply to communications
without loss of time. Further, during the winter nights, when
auroral observations had to be made, I could retire if nothing
showed during the early part of the night, leaving it
to Sandell, who worked till 2 or 3 A.M. to call me if any manifestation
occurred.
We had heavy gales from the 12th to the 17th
inclusive, the force of the wind during the period frequently
exceeding fifty miles per hour, and, on the first-mentioned
date, the barometer fell to 27.8 inches. The usual terrific
seas accompanied the outburst.
Finding that there were
only eight blocks of coal left, I reduced the weekly allowance
to one. We had a good supply of tapioca, but neither rice nor
sago, and as the sealers had some of the latter two, but none
of the former, we made an exchange to the extent of twelve pounds
of tapioca for eight pounds of rice and some sago. Only fifteen
pounds of butter remained on the 20th, and I divided this equally,
as it was now one of the luxuries, and each man could use his
own discretion in eating it. As it was nearing the end of April,
and no further word concerning the movements of the `Rachel
Cohen' had been received, I wirelessed asking to be immediately
advised of the exact date of the vessel's departure. A reply
came that the ship would definitely reach us within two months.
I answered, saying we could wait two months, but certainly no
longer.
With a view to varying the menu a little, Blake
and I took Mac up on the hills on April 26 to get some rabbits
and, after tramping for about six hours, we returned with seven.
In our wanderings we visited the penguin rookeries at ``The
Nuggets,'' and one solitary bird sat in the centre of
the vast area which had so lately been a scene of much noise
and contention.
On May 1 I took an inventory of the stores
and found that they would last for two months if economically
used. Of course, I placed confidence in the statement that the
`Rachel Cohen' would reach the island within that time.
With the coming of May wintry conditions set
in, and at the end of the first week the migrants had deserted
our uninviting island. Life with us went on much the same as
usual, but the weather was rather more severe than that during
the previous year, and we were confined to the Shack a good
deal.
The sealers who were still on the island had shifted
back to the Hut at the north end so that they were very close
to us and frequently came over with their dog in the evenings
to have a yarn. The majority of them were men who had ``knocked
about'' the world and had known many rough, adventurous
years. One of them in particular was rather fluent, and we were
often entertained from his endless repertoire of stories.
On the 23rd, finding that there were seventy-seven and a
half pounds of flour remaining, and ascertaining that the sealers
could let us have twenty-five pounds, if we ran short, I increased
the allowance for bread to twelve and a half pounds per week,
and this, when made up, gave each man two and three-quarter
pounds of bread. Our supply of oatmeal was very low, but in
order to make it last we now started using a mixture of oatmeal
and sago for breakfast; of course, without any milk or sugar.
Just about this time Mac gave birth to six pups and could
not help us in obtaining food. She had done valuable service
in this connexion, and the loss in the foraging strength of
the party was severely felt for several weeks. She was particularly
deadly in hunting rabbits and wekas, and though the first-named
were very scarce within a few miles of the Shack, she always
managed to unearth one or two somewhere. Hut-slippers were made
out of the rabbit skins and they were found to be a great boon,
one being able to sit down for a while without his feet ``going.''
June arrived and with it much rough, cold weather. A boat
was expected to come to our relief, at the very latest, by the
30th. We had a very chilly period during the middle of the month,
and it was only by hand-feeding the ``jacket'' of the
wireless motor that any work could be done by the station, as
the tank outside was almost frozen solid.
The tide-gauge
clock broke down towards the end of the month, and though I
tried for days to get it going I was not successful. One of
the springs had rusted very badly as a result of the frequent
``duckings'' the clock had experienced, and had become
practically useless.
We had ascertained that the `Rachel
Cohen' was still in Hobart, so on the 23rd I wirelessed
asking when the boat was to sail. The reply came that the `Rachel
Cohen' was leaving Hobart on Thursday, June 26.
Our
supply of kerosene oil was exhausted by the end of the month,
despite the fact that the rule of ``lights out at 1O P.M.''
had been observed for some time. Thus we were obliged to use
sea elephant oil in slush lamps. At first we simply filled a
tin with the oil and passed a rag through a cork floating on
the top, but a little ingenuity soon resulted in the production
of a lamp with three Burners and a handle. This was made by
Sandell out of an old tea-pot and one, two or three burners
could be lit as occasion demanded. During meal times the whole
three burners were used, but, as the oil smoked and smelt somewhat,
we generally blew out two as soon as the meal was finished.
This was the ``general'' lamp, but each man had, as
well, one of his own invention. Mine was scornfully referred
to as the ``house-boat,'' since it consisted of a jam
tin, which held the oil, standing in a herring tin which caught
the overflow.
At the end of June, Blake and I surveyed
all the penguin rookeries round about ``The Nuggets''
and, allowing a bird to the square foot, found that there must
have been about half a million birds in the area. The sealers
kill birds from these rookeries to the number of about one hundred
and thirty thousand yearly, so that it would seem reasonable
to suppose that, despite this fact, there must be an annual
increase of about one hundred thousand birds.
The end of the month arrived and, on making
inquiries, we found that there was no news of the `Rachel Cohen'
having left Hobart. We had enough flour to last a fortnight,
and could not get any from the sealers as they possessed only
three weeks' supply themselves. However, on July 8, Bauer
came across and offered to let us have some wheatmeal biscuits
as they had a couple of hundredweights, so I readily accepted
twenty pounds of them. We now had soup twice a day, and managed
to make it fairly thick by adding sago and a few lentils. Cornflour
and hot water flavoured with cocoa made a makeshift blanc-mange,
and this, with sago and tapioca, constituted our efforts towards
dessert.
On the 12th I received a message stating that
the `Rachel Cohen' had sailed on July 7; news which was
joyfully received. We expected her to appear in ten or twelve
days.
On the 18th we used the last ounce of flour in
a small batch of bread, having fully expected the ship to arrive
before we had finished it. Next day Bauer lent us ten pounds
of oatmeal and showed us how to make oatmeal cakes. We tried
some and they were a complete success, though they consisted
largely of tapioca, and, according to the respective amounts
used, should rather have been called tapioca cakes.
When
the 22nd arrived and no ship showed up, I went across to see
what the sealers thought of the matter, and found that they
all were of opinion that she had been blown away to the eastward
of the island, and might take a considerable time to ``make''
back.
On this date we came to the end of our meats, which
I had been dealing out in a very sparing manner, just to provide
a change from sea elephant and weka. We had now to subsist upon
what we managed to catch. There were still thirty-five tins
of soup, of which only two tins a day were used, so that there
was sufficient for a few weeks. But we found ourselves running
short of some commodity each day, and after the 23rd reckoned
to be without bread and biscuit.
At this juncture many
heavy blows were experienced, and on the 24th a fifty-mile gale
accompanied by a tremendous sea beat down on us, giving the
`Rachel Cohen' a very poor chance of ``making''
the island. Our last tin of fruit was eaten; twelve tins having
lasted us since March 31, and I also shared the remaining ten
biscuits amongst the men on the 24th. We were short of bread,
flour, biscuits, meats, fish, jam, sugar and milk, but had twenty
tins of French beans, thirty tins of cornflour, some tapioca,
and thirty tins of soup, as well as tea, coffee and cocoa in
abundance. We had not been able to catch any fish for some days
as the weather had been too rough, and, further, they appeared
to leave the coasts during the very cold weather.
Sea
elephants were very scarce, and we invariably had to walk some
distance in order to get one; each man taking it in turn to
go out with a companion and carry home enough meat for our requirements.
We were now eating sea elephant meat three times a day (all
the penguins having migrated) and our appetites were very keen.
The routine work was carried on, though a great deal of time
was occupied in getting food.
Bauer very generously offered
to share his biscuits with us, but we fellows, while appreciating
the spirit which prompted the offer, unanimously declined to
accept them. We now concluded that something had happened to
the ship, as at the end of July she had been twenty- four days
out.
On August 3 we had a sixty-three-mile gale and between
1 and 2 A.M. the velocity of the wind frequently exceeded fifty
miles per hour. Needless to say there was a mountainous sea
running, and the Rachel Cohen, if she had been anywhere in the
vicinity, would have had a perilous time.
A message came
to me on August 6 from the Secretary of the Expedition, saying
that the `Rachel Cohen' had returned to New Zealand badly
damaged, and that he was endeavouring to send us relief as soon
as possible. I replied, telling him that our food-supply was
done, but that otherwise we were a l right and no uneasiness
need be felt, though we wished to be relieved as soon as possible.
Splendid news came along on the 9th to the effect that the
New Zealand Government's steamer `Tutanekai' would tranship
our stores from the `Rachel Cohen' on the 15th and sail
direct for the island.
Sawyer now became ill and desired
me to make arrangements for his return. I accordingly wired
to the Secretary, who replied asking if we could manage without
an operator. After consulting Sandell, I answered that Sandell
and I together could manage to run the wireless station.
Everybody now looked forward eagerly to the arrival of the
`Tutanekai', but things went on as before. We found ourselves
with nothing but sea elephant meat and sago, with a pound-tin
of French beans once a week and two ounces of oatmeal every
morning.
We heard that the Tutanekai did not leave as
expected on the 15th, but sailed on the afternoon of the 17th,
and was coming straight to Macquarie Island. She was equipped
with a wireless telegraphy outfit, which enabled us on the 18th
to get in touch with her; the operator on board stating that
they would reach us early on
the morning of the 20th.
On the evening of the 19th we gave Sawyer a send-off dinner;
surely the poorest thing of its kind, as far as eatables were
concerned, that has ever been tendered to any one. The fare
consisted of sea elephant's tongue ``straight,''
after which a bottle of claret was cracked and we drank heartily
to his future prosperity.
At 7.30 A.M. on the 20th the
`Tutanekai' was observed coming up the east coast, and as
we had ``elephanted'' at 6 A.M. we were ready to face
the day. I went across to the sealers' hut and accompanied
Bauer in the launch to the ship, which lay at anchor about a
mile from the shore. We scrambled on board, where I met Captain
Bollons. He received me most courteously, and, after discussing
several matters, suggested landing the stores straight away.
I got into the launch to return to the shore, but the wind had
freshened and was soon blowing a fresh gale. Still, Bauer thought
we should have no difficulty and we pushed off from the ship.
The engine of the launch failed after we had gone a few yards,
the boat was blown rapidly down the coast, and we were eventually
thrown out into the surf at ``The Nuggets.'' The Captain,
who witnessed our plight, sent his launch in pursuit of us,
but its engines also failed. It now became necessary for the
crew of the whale-boat to go to the assistance of the launch.
However, they could do nothing against the wind, and, in the
end, the ship herself got up anchor, gave the two boats a line
and towed them back to the former anchorage. The work of unloading
now commenced, though a fairly heavy surf was running. But the
whaleboat of the `Tutanekai' was so dexterously handled
by the boatswain that most of our stores were landed during
the day.
Sawyer went on board the `Tutanekai' in
the afternoon, thus severing his connexion with the Expedition,
after having been with us on the island since December 1911.
On the following morning, some sheep, coal and flour were landed,
and, with a whistled good-bye, the `Tutanekai' started north
on her visit to other islands.
Our short period of stress
was over and we all felt glad. From that time onwards we ate
no more elephant meat ``straight.'' A sheep was killed
just as the `Tutanekai' left, and we had roast mutton, scones,
butter, jam, fruit and rice for tea. It was a rare treat.
All the stores were now brought up from the landing-place,
and as I had put up several extra shelves some weeks previously,
plenty of room was found for all the perishable commodities
inside the Shack.
The beginning of September found me
fairly busy. In addition to the meteorological work, the results
of which were always kept reduced and entered up, I had to work
on Wireless Hill during the evening and make auroral observations
on any night during which there was a display, attending to
the stores and taking the week of cooking as it came along.
Blake and Hamilton went down the island for several days
on September 3, since they had some special observations to
make in the vicinity of Sandy Bay.
The sea elephant season
was now in progress, and many rookeries were well formed by
the middle of the month. The skuas had returned, and on the
19th the advance-guard of the Royal penguins arrived. The gentoos
had established themselves in their old ``claims,''
and since the 12th we had been using their eggs for cooking.
Early in September time-signals were received from Melbourne,
and these were transmitted through to Adelie Land. This practice
was kept up throughout the month and in many cases the signals
were acknowledged.
Blake and Hamilton returned to the
Shack on the 24th, but left again on the 30th, as they had some
more photographic work to do in the vicinity of Green Valley
and Sandy Bay.
Blake made a special trip to Sandy Bay
on October 30 to bring back some geological specimens and other
things he had left there, but on reaching the spot found that
the old hut had been burned to the ground, apparently only a
few hours before, since it was still smouldering. Many articles
were destroyed, among which were two sleeping-bags, a sextant,
gun, blankets, photographic plates, bird specimens and articles
of clothing. It was presumed that rats had originated the fire
from wax matches which had been left lying on a small shelf.
On November 9 we heard that the `Aurora' would leave
Hobart on the 19th for Antarctica, picking us up on the way
and landing three men on the island to continue the wireless
and meteorological work.
We sighted the `Rachel Cohen'
bearing down on the island on November 18, and at 5.15 P.M.
she came to an anchorage in North-East Bay. She brought down
the remainder of our coal and some salt for Hamilton for the
preservation of specimens.
On the next night it was learned
that the `Aurora' had left Hobart on her way South, expecting
to reach us about the 28th, as some sounding and dredging were
being done en route.
Everybody now became very busy making
preparations for departure. Time passed very quickly, and November
28 dawned fine and bright. The `Rachel Cohen', which had
been lying in the bay loading oil, had her full complement on
board by 10 A.M., and shortly afterwards we trooped across
to say good-bye to Bauer and the other sealers, who were all
returning to Hobart. It was something of a coincidence that
they took their departure on the very day our ship was to arrive.
Their many acts of kindness towards us will ever be recalled
by the members of the party, and we look upon our harmonious
neighbourly association together with feelings of great pleasure.
A keen look-out was then kept for signs of our own ship,
but it was not until 8 P.M. that Blake, who was up on the hill
side, called out, ``Here she comes,'' and we climbed
up to take in the goodly sight. Just visible, away in the north-west,
there was a line of thin smoke, and in about half an hour the
`Aurora' dropped anchor in Hasselborough Bay.
CHAPTER XXVIII - THE HOMEWARD CRUISE