Chapter 8 - DOMESTIC LIFE
The Home of the Blizzard By
Douglas Mawson
Preface
Chapters:
1 - The Problem
and Preparations |
2 - The Last
Days of Hobart and the Voyage to Macquarie Island |
3 - From Macquarie
Island to Adelie Land |
4 - New Lands
| 5 - First
Days in Adelie Land |
6 - Autumn
Prospects |
7 - The Blizzard |
8 - Domestic
Life | 9
- Midwinter and its Work |
10 - The
Preparation of Sledging Equipment |
11 - Spring
Exploits |
12 - Across King George V Land |
13 - Toil
and Tribulation |
14 -
The Quest of the South Magnetic Pole
| 15
- Eastward Over the Sea-Ice |
16 - Horn
Bluff and Penguin Point |
17 - With
Stillwell's and Bickerton's Parties |
18 - The
Ship's Story |
19 - The
Western Base - Establishment and Early Adventures |
20 - The
Western base - Winter and Spring |
21 - The
Western Base - Blocked on the Shelf-Ice |
22 - The
Western base - Linking up with Kaiser Wilhelm II Land
| 23 - A
Second Winter |
24 - Nearing
the End |
25 - Life on Macquarie Island |
26 - A Land
of Storm and Mist |
27- Through
Another Year |
28 - The
Homeward Cruise
Appendices:
2 - Scientific Work
| 3 - An Historical
Summary | 4
- Glossary |
5 - Medical Reports |
6 - Finance
| 7 - Equipment
Summary (2 pages) of the
Australian Antarctic Expedition
| The
Men of the Expedition
CHAPTER VIII
DOMESTIC
LIFE
Our hearth and home was the living Hut and its
focus was the stove. Kitchen and stove were indissolubly linked,
and beyond their pale was a wilderness of hanging clothes, boots,
finnesko, mitts and what not, bounded by tiers of bunks and
blankets, more hanging clothes and dim photographs between the
frost-rimed cracks of the wooden walls.
One might see
as much in the first flicker of the acetylene through a maze
of hurrying figures, but as his eyes grew accustomed to the
light, the plot would thicken: books orderly and disorderly,
on bracketed shelves, cameras great and small in motley confusion,
guns and a gramophone-horn, serpentine yards of gas-tubing,
sewing machines, a microscope, rows of pint-mugs, until--thud!
he has obstructed a wild-eyed messman staggering into the kitchen
with a box of ice.
The wilderness was always inhabited,
so much so that it often became a bear-garden in which raucous
good humour prevailed over everything.
Noise was a necessary
evil, and it commenced at 7.30 A.M., with the subdued melodies
of the gramophone, mingled with the stirring of the porridge-pot
and the clang of plates deposited none too gently on the table.
At 7.50 A.M. came the stentorian: "Rise and shine!''
of the night-watchman, and a curious assortment of cat-calls,
beating on pots and pans and fragmentary chaff. At the background,
so to speak, of all these sounds was the swishing rush of the
wind and the creaking strain of the roof, but these had become
neglected. In fact, if there were a calm, every one was restless
and uneasy.
The seasoned sleeper who survived the ten
minutes' bombardment before 8 o'clock was an unusual
person, and he was often the Astronomer Royal. Besides his dignified
name he possessed a wrist-watch, and there was never a movement
in his mountain of blankets until 7.59 A.M., unless the jocular
night-watchman chose to make a heap of them on the floor. To
calls like "Breakfast all ready! Porridge on the table
getting cold!'' seventeen persons in varying stages
of wakefulness responded. No one was guilty of an elaborate
toilet, water being a scarce commodity. There were adherents
of the snow-wash theory, but these belonged to an earlier and
warmer epoch of our history.
For downright, tantalizing
cheerfulness there was no one to equal the night-watchman. While
others strove to collect their befuddled senses, this individual
prated of "wind eighty miles per hour with moderate drift
and brilliant St. Elmo's fire.'' He boasted of the
number of garments he had washed, expanded vigorously on bread
making--his brown, appetizing specimens in full public view--told
of the latest escapade among the dogs, spoke of the fitful gleams
of the aurora between 1.30 and 2 A.M., of his many adventures
on the way to the meteorological screen and so forth; until
from being a mere night-watchman he had raised himself to the
status of a public hero. For a time he was most objectionable,
but under the solid influence of porridge, tinned fruit, fresh
bread, butter and tea and the soothing aroma of innumerable
pipes, other public heroes arose and ousted this upstart of
the night. Meanwhile, the latter began to show signs of abating
energy after twelve hours' work. Soon some wag had caught
him having a private nap, a whispered signal was passed round
and the unfortunate hero was startled into life with a rousing "Rise
and shine!'' in which all past scores were paid off.
Every one was at last awake and the day began in earnest.
The first hint of this came from the messman and cook who commenced
to make a Herculean sweep of the pint-mugs and tin plates. The
former deferentially proceeded to scrape the plates, the master-cook
presiding over a tub of boiling water in which he vigorously
scoured knives, forks and spoons, transferring them in dripping
handfuls to the cleanest part of the kitchen-table. Cooks of
lyric inclination would enliven the company with the score of
the latest gramophone opera, and the messman and company would
often feel impelled to join in the choruses.
The night-watchman
had sunk into log-like slumber, and the meteorologist and his
merry men were making preparations to go abroad. The merry men
included the ice-carrier, the magnetician, the two wardens of
the dogs, the snow-shoveller and coal-carrier and the storeman.
The rest subdivided themselves between the living Hut at 45
degrees F. and the outer Hut below freezing-point, taking up
their endless series of jobs.
The merry men began to
make an organized raid on the kitchen. Around and above the
stove hung oddments like wolf-skin mitts, finnesko, socks, stockings
and helmets, which had passed from icy rigidity through sodden
limpness to a state of parchment dryness. The problem was to
recover one's own property and at the same time to avoid
the cook scraping the porridge saucepan and the messman scrubbing
the table.
The urbane storeman saved the situation by
inquiring of the cook: "What will you have for lunch?''
Then followed a heated colloquy, the former, like a Cingalese
vendor, having previously made up his mind. The argument finally
crystallized down to lambs' tongues and beetroot, through
herrings and tomato sauce, fresh herrings, kippered herrings,
sardines and corn beef.
The second question was a preliminary
to more serious business; "What would you like for dinner?''
Although much trouble might have been saved by reference
to the regulation programme, which was composed to provide variety
in diet and to eliminate any remote chance of scurvy, most cooks
adopted an attitude of surly independence, counting it no mean
thing to have wheedled from the storeman a few more ounces of "glaxo,''
another tin of peas or an extra ration of penguin meat. All
this chaffering took place in the open market-place, so to speak,
and there was no lack of frank criticism from bystanders, onlookers
and distant eavesdroppers. In case the cook was worsted, the
messman sturdily upheld his opinions, and in case the weight
of public opinion was too much for the storeman, he slipped
on his felt mitts, shouldered a Venesta box and made for the
tunnel which led to the store.
He reaches an overhead
vent admitting a cool torrent of snow, and with the inseparable
box plunges ahead into darkness. An hour later his ruddy face
reappears in the Hut, and a load of frosted tins is soon unceremoniously
dumped on to the kitchen table. The cook in a swift survey notes
the absence of penguin meat. "That'll take two hours
to dig out!'' is the storeman's rejoinder, and to
make good his word, proceeds to pull off blouse and helmet.
By careful inquiry in the outer Hut he finds an ice-axe, crowbar
and hurricane lantern. The next move is to the outer veranda,
where a few loose boards are soon removed, and the storeman,
with a lithe twist, is out of sight.
We have pushed the
tools down and, following the storeman, painfully squeezed into
an Arcadia of starry mounds of snow and glistening plaques of
ice, through which project a few boulders and several carcases
of mutton. The storeman rummages in the snow and discloses a
pile of penguins, crusted hard together in a homogeneous lump.
Dislodging a couple of penguins appears an easy proposition,
but we are soon disillusioned. The storeman seizes the head
of one bird, wrenches hard, and off it breaks as brittle as
a stalactite. The same distracting thing happens to both legs,
and the only remedy is to chip laboriously an icy channel around
it.
In a crouching or lying posture, within a confined
space, this means the expenditure of much patience, not to mention
the exhaustion of all invective. A crowbar decides the question.
One part of the channel is undermined, into this the end of
the crowbar is thrust and the penguin shoots up and hits the
floor of the Hut.
The storeman, plastered with snow,
reappears hot and triumphant before the cook, but this dignitary
is awkwardly kneading the dough of wholemeal scones, and the
messman is feeding the fire with seal-blubber to ensure a "quick''
oven. Every one is too busy to notice the storeman, for, like
the night-watchman, his day is over and he must find another
job.
Jobs in the Hut were the elixir of life, and a day's
cooking was no exception to the rule. It began at 7 A.M., and,
with a brief intermission between lunch and afternoon tea, continued
strenuously till 8.30 P.M. Cooks were broadly classified as "Crook
Cooks'' and "Unconventional Cooks'' by
the eating public. Such flattering titles as "Assistant
Grand Past Master of the Crook Cooks' Association''
or "Associate of the Society of Muddling Messmen''
were not empty inanities; they were founded on solid fact--on
actual achievement. If there were no constitutional affiliation,
strong sympathy undoubtedly existed between the "Crook
Cooks' Association'' and "The Society of Muddling
Messmen.'' Both contained members who had committed "championships.''
"Championship'' was a term evolved from the
local dialect, applying to a slight mishap, careless accident
or unintentional disaster in any department of Hut life. The
fall of a dozen plates from the shelf to the floor, the fracture
of a table-knife in frozen honey, the burning of the porridge
or the explosion of a tin thawing in the oven brought down on
the unfortunate cook a storm of derisive applause and shouts
of "Championship! Championship!''
Thawing-out
tinned foods by the heroic aid of a red-hot stove was a common
practice. One day a tin of baked beans was shattered in the "port"
oven, and fragments of dried beans were visible on the walls
and door for weeks. Our military cook would often facetiously
refer to "platoon-firing in the starboard oven.''
One junior member of the "Crook Cooks' Association''
had the hardihood to omit baking powder in a loaf of soda-bread,
trusting that prolonged baking would repair the omission. The
result was a "championship'' of a very superior
order. Being somewhat modest, he committed it through the trap-door
to the mercy of the wind, and for a time it was lost in the
straggling rubbish which tailed away to the north. Even the
prowling dogs in their wolfish hunger could not overcome a certain
prejudice. Of course some one found it, and the public hailed
it with delight. A searching inquiry was made, but the perpetrator
was never discovered. That loaf, however, like the proverbial
bad penny, turned up for months. When the intricate system of
snow-tunnels was being perfected, it was excavated. In the early
summer, when the aeroplane was dug out of the Hangar, that loaf
appeared once more, and almost the last thing we saw when leaving
the Hut, nearly two years after, was this petrifaction on an
icy pedestal near the Boat Harbour.
No one ever forgot
the roly-poly pudding made without suet; synthetic rubber was
its scientific name. And the muddling messman could never be
surpassed who lost the cutter of the sausage machine and put
salt-water ice in the melting-pots.
There appeared in
the columns of "The Adelie Blizzard' an article by
the meteorologist descriptive of an occasion when two members
of the "Crook Cooks' Association'' officiated
in the kitchen:
TEREBUS AND ERROR IN ERUPTION
An 'Orrible Affair in One Act
BY A SURVIVOR
Dramatis Personae
TEREBUS |
| Crook Cooks
ERROR |
Other Expedition Members
Scene: Kitchen, Winter Quarters.
Time: 5.30 P.M.
ERROR. Now, Terebus, just bring me a nice clean pot, will you?
TEREBUS [from his bunk]. Go on, do something yourself!
ERROR. Do something? I've done everything that has been done this
afternoon.
TEREBUS. Well, you ought to feel pretty fresh.
ERROR. And all the melting-pots are empty and I'm not going to fill
them. Besides, it's not in the regulations.
Voices. Who's going crook? Error!
[TEREBUS climbs from his bunk and exit for ice. ERROR attempts to
extricate a pot from the nails in the shelves. Loud alarums.
Voices. Champ-ion-ship!
[Alarums without. Loud cries of "Door!'' Enter TEREBUS with box
of ice; fills all the pots on the stove.
ERROR. Good heavens, man, you've filled up the tea water with ice.
TEREBUS [with hoarse laugh]. Never mind, they won't want so much
glaxo to cool it.
ERROR [who has meanwhile been mixing bread]. What shall we bake the
bread in? I believe it is considered that a square tin is more
suitable for ordinary ovens, but, on the other hand, Nansen in his
"Farthest North' used flat dishes.
TEREBUS. Use a tin. There'll be less surface exposed to the cold
oven.
ERROR. What's all this water on the floor? I thought my feet
seemed cold. Some one must have upset a bucket.
TEREBUS. Oh, it's one of the taps turned on. Never mind, there's
plenty more ice where that came from. Get your sea-boots.
[Enter METEOROLOGICAL STAFF and others with snow-covered burberrys,
mitts, etc., crowd kitchen and hang impedimenta round the stove.
Great tumult.
TEREBUS. Here, out of the kitchen. This isn't the time to worry the
cooks.
ERROR. Take those burberrys away, please, old man. They're dripping
into the soup.
TEREBUS. Give it some flavour at least.
[Great activity in the crater of ERROR while TEREBUS clears the
kitchen. ERROR continues stirring Soup and tapioca custard on the
stove. Strong smell of burning.
VOICES [in peculiarly joyful chorus]. Something burning!
ERROR [aside to TEREBUS]. It's all right. It will taste all right.
Say it's cloth on the stove.
TEREBUS. Somebody's burberrys burning against the stove!!
[General rush to the stove.
TEREBUS. It's all right, I've taken them away.
[Interval, during which much sotto voce discussion is heard in the
kitchen.
ERROR. We haven't put the spinach on to thaw and it's after six
o'clock.
TEREBUS. Warm it up and put it on the table with the tin-openers.
ERROR. I'm afraid that's against the regulations. Put it in the oven
and shut the door.
[TEREBUS does so. Later, terrific explosion, followed by strong
smell of spinach.
VOICES. What's the matter? Terebus in eruption!
TEREBUS [wiping spinach off his face]. Nothing wrong. Only a tin of
spinach opened automatically.
ERROR. It's plastered all over the oven and on everything.
TEREBUS. Don't worry, it will be served up with the baked penguin.
[Period of partial quiescence of TEREBUS and ERROR, which is regarded
as an evil omen.
ERROR [in persuasive tone]. Have you made the tea, old boy? It's
nearly half-past six.
[TEREBUS takes off the lid of the tea-boiler, peers inside, making a
scoop with his hand.
ERROR. Here, don't do that. Mind your hands.
TEREBUS. It's all right, it's not hot.
ERROR. What shall we do, then? We'll never keep them quiet if we
are late with the tea.
TEREBUS. Put the tea in now. It will be warmed up by the second
course.
[TEREBUS puts the infusers in the pot and stirs them round.
ERROR. Taste it.
[BOTH taste with a dirty spoon.
TEREBUS. Tastes like your soup--'orrible!
ERROR. There's nothing wrong with the soup. You attend to the tea.
TEREBUS. I think we'll have coffee. Pass the coffee and I'll put
that in and bring it to the boil. The coffee will kill the taste of
the tea.
ERROR. Hope you make it stronger than that.
[During quiescent stage while each is thinking of a retort, 6.30 P.M.
arrives, and the soup is put on the table. Interval elapses during
which the victims are expected to eat the soup.
VOICES [in loud chant from the table]. How did you do it, Error?
TEREBUS [after a suitable period]. Any one like any more soup?
A VOICE. Couldn't risk it, Governor. TEREBUS. Bowls up! Lick
spoons!
[Bowls are cleared away and baked penguin is put on the table.
ERROR. Cooks have got their penguin, gentlemen.
[Suspicious glances exchanged at table. Later, monotonous chant goes
up, preceded by a soft "One, two, three.'' "Didn't scrape the
blubber off, Error.''
[PIates cleared away and scraped into dogs' bucket. ERROR takes
tapioca custard from oven in two dishes.
ERROR [aside to TEREBUS]. Take some out of this one for us and don't
forget to put that dish in front of the Doctor, because I spilled soda
in the other.
[TEREBUS takes two large helpings out and puts rest on table as
directed.
TEREBUS. You need not remember the cooks, gentlemen.
A VOICE. Don't want to, if I can manage it.
ERROR [aside to TEREBUS]. Put on the Algerian sweets, and then we can
have ours.
TEREBUS [taking several handfuls]. We'll put these aside for perks.
[The sweets on the table, TEREBUS and ERROR retire to kitchen to have
their dinner.
ERROR. Is this my pudding? It's only an ordinary share.
[TEREBUS is too busy to reply, and further eruption is prevented by
the temporary plugging of ERROR.
Cooking, under the inspiration of Mrs. Beeton, became a fine art:
On bones we leave no meat on,
For we study Mrs. Beeton.
So said the song. On birthdays and other auspicious
occasions dishes appeared which would tempt a gourmet. Puff-pastry,
steam-puddings, jellies and blancmanges, original potages and
consommes, seal curried and spiced, penguin delicately fried,
vegetables reflavoured, trimmed and adorned were received without
comment as the culinary standard rose.
Birthdays were
always greeted with special enthusiasm. Speeches were made,
toasts were drunk, the supple boards of the table creaked with
good things, cook and messman vied with each other in lavish
hospitality, the Hut was ornate with flags, every man was spruce
in his snowiest cardigan and neck-cloth, the gramophone sang
of music-hall days, the wind roared its appreciation through
the stove-pipe, and rollicking merriment was supreme. On such
occasions the photographer and the biologist made a genial combination.
The dark-room was the nursery of the topical song. There,
by lantern or candle-stump, wit Rabelaisian, Aristophanic or
Antarctic was cradled into rhyme. From there, behind the scenes,
the comedian in full dress could step before the footlights
into salvoes of savage applause. "A Pair of Unconventional
Cooks are we, are we,'' and the famous refrain, "There
he is, that's him,'' were long unrivalled in our
musical annals.
Celebrations were carried on into the
night, but no one forgot the cook and the messman. The table
was cleared by many willing hands, some brought in ice and coal
or swept the floor, others scraped plates or rinsed out mugs
and bowls. Soon, everything had passed through the cauldron
of water, soap and soda to the drying-towels and on to the shelves.
The main crowd then repaired with pipes and cigars to "Hyde
Park Corner,'' where the storeman, our raconteur par
excellence, entertained the smokers' club. A mixed concert
brought the evening to the grand finale--"Auld Lang Syne.''
After events of this character, the higher shelves of the
kitchen, in the interstices between thermographs, photographic
plates ink bottles, and Russian stout, abounded with titbits
of pie crust, blancmange, jelly, Vienna rusks, preserved figs,
and other "perks.'' Such perks,'' or perquisites,
were the property of the presiding cook or night-watchman and
rarely survived for more than a day.
The mania for celebration
became so great that reference was frequently made to the almanac.
During one featureless interval, the anniversary of the First
Lighting of London by Gas was observed with extraordinary eclat.
The great medium of monetary exchange in the Hut was chocolate.
A ration of thirty squares was distributed by the storeman every
Saturday night, and for purposes of betting, games of chance, "Calcutta
sweeps'' on the monthly wind-velocity and general barter,
chocolate held the premier place.
At the "sweeps,''
the meteorologist stood with a wooden hammer behind the table,
and the gaming public swarmed on the other side. Numbers ranging
from "low field'' and forty-five to sixty-five
and "high field'' were sold by auction to the highest
bidder. Excitement was intense while the cartographer in clerical
glasses worked out the unknown number.
As a consequence
of wild speculation, there were several cases of bankruptcy,
which was redeemed in the ordinary way by a sale of the debtor's
effects.
Two financiers, indifferent to the charms of
chocolate, established a corner or "Bank'' in the
commodity. "The Bank,'' by barter and usurious
methods, amassed a great heap of well-thumbed squares, and,
when accused of rapacity, invented a scheme for the common good
known as "Huntoylette.'' This was a game of chance
similar to roulette, and for a while it completely gulfed the
trusting public. In the reaction which followed, there was a
rush on "The Bank,'' and the concern was wound
up, but the promoters escaped with a large profit
in candles
and chocolate.
Throughout the winter months, work went
on steadily even after dinner, and hours of leisure were easy
to fill. Some wrote up their diaries, played games, or smoked
and yarned;others read, developed photos, or imitated the weary
cook and went to bed. The MacKellar Library, so called after
the donor, was a boon to all, and the literature of polar exploration
was keenly followed and discussed. Taste in literature varied,
but among a throng of eighteen, the majority of whom were given
to expressing their opinions in no uncertain terms--there were
no rigid conventions in Adelie Land--every book had a value
in accordance with a common standard.
There was not a
dissenting voice to the charm of "Lady Betty across the
Water', and the reason for this was a special one. The sudden
breath of a world of warmth and colour, richness and vivacity
and astute, American freshness amid the somewhat grim attractions
of an Antarctic winter was too much for every one. Lady Betty,
in the realm of bright images, had a host of devoted admirers.
Her influence spread beyond the Hut to the plateau itself. Three
men went sledging, and to shelter themselves from the rude wind
fashioned an ice-cavern, which, on account of its magical hues
and rare lustre, could be none other than "Aladdin's
Cave.'' Lady Betty found her hero in a fairy grotto
of the same name.
"Lorna Doone', on the other
hand, was liked by many. Still there were those who thought
that John Ridd was a fool, a slow, obtuse rustic, and so on,
while Lorna was too divine and angelic for this life.
"The War of the Carolinas' took the Hut by storm,
but it was a "nine days' wonder'' and left
no permanent impression on the thinking community. Mostly, the
story was voted delightfully funny, but very foolish and farcical
after all. A few exclusive critics predicted for it a future.
Then there was "The Trail of '98'. For power
and blunt realism there was nothing like it, but the character
of the hero was torn in the shreds of debate. There was general
agreement on two points: that the portrayal of the desolate
Alaskan wild had a touch of "home,'' and that the
heroine was a "true sport.''
All those who
had ever hauled on the main braces, sung the topsail- halliard
chanty, learned the intricate Matty Walker, the bowline-and-a-bite
and a crowd of kindred knots, had a warm spot for any yarn by
Jacobs. Night after night, the storeman held the audience with
the humorous escapades of "Ginger Dick', "Sam'
and "Peter Russet'.
And lastly, there was a
more serious, if divided interest in "Virginibus Puerisque', "Marcus
Aurelius', "The Unveiling of Lhassa'--but the list
is rather interminable.
The whole world is asleep except
the night-watchman, and he, having made the bread, washed a
tubful of clothes, kept the fire going, observed and made notes
on the aurora every fifteen minutes and the weather every half-hour,
and, finally, having had a bath, indulges in buttered toast
and a cup of coffee.
The Hut is dark, and a shaded burner
hangs by a canvas chair in the kitchen. The wind is booming
in gusts, the dogs howl occasionally in the veranda, but the
night-watchman and his pipe are at peace with all men. He has
discarded a heavy folio for a light romance, while the hours
scud by, broken only by the observations. The romance is closed,
and he steals to his bunk with a hurricane lamp and finds a
bundle of letters. He knows them well, but he reads them--again!
Pearly light rises in the north-east through the lessening
drift, and another day has come.
CHAPTER IX - MIDWINTER AND ITS WORK